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Reccomended Reading? by Esther Cubbleford - Tue, 19 Dec 2017 16:48:17 EST ID:OFj3gV0C No.145649 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Newfag here, I see that the List [Multiple eBooks about growing Marijuana] linked on the wiki is down. I am hoping some one here will provide some direction in the form of listing quality Resources and Books, relating to growing, specifically mushrooms and marijuana. a /crops/ starter pack if you will.
Cedric Trotbanks - Thu, 21 Dec 2017 06:42:36 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.145651 Ignore Report Quick Reply

http://www.growweedeasy.com/ This is a pretty good place to start, covers pretty much all the basics

Ticks by Esther Dibberhodge - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 21:33:28 EST ID:Dnw+jc9U No.145641 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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How to get rid of small white tick-like critters? Are they dangerous to my plant? Of all places the chose to scurry around the area where my plant has sprouted. What should I do? Can they severe stunt the development of my plant?
Eliza Goodlock - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 22:05:08 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.145642 Ignore Report Quick Reply
they are part of a living soil ecosystem and harmless
Esther Dibberhodge - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 22:22:24 EST ID:Dnw+jc9U No.145643 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Are you sure? People say that they can become a disaster when their population gets bigger. And the higher temperature you have - the more active and numerous they get. It's 32C in my growbox rn. I've seen at least three of these buggers so far.
Eliza Goodlock - Mon, 18 Dec 2017 02:34:15 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.145644 Ignore Report Quick Reply
they like wet and mold, so if they show up in great numbers you got other problems
Phyllis Gommleshaw - Mon, 18 Dec 2017 09:45:12 EST ID:3FKmUudm No.145645 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Springtails are harmful, a healthy plant is free of critters.

Wtf wrong with my leaves by Oliver Hettingfon - Sat, 16 Dec 2017 11:52:52 EST ID:HzZs1mVm No.145637 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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They have a normal low heat light bulb as their light rn, it's like an energy saver one, they're just small and I don't have any good lights yet, but why are the tips on the leaves yellowing, the lights not hot or anything, I used old compost garden soil and I water them a little once a day with tap water, so I hope thats enough info
Lydia Bunkinwill - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 08:57:22 EST ID:3FKmUudm No.145639 Ignore Report Quick Reply
You're overwatering and the plants are suffocating because of that. A plant that small doesn't need to be watered daily, once every two weeks should be enough.

Move the light closer.

Problem(s) growing 1st time by DICHBICHE - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 05:59:51 EST ID:mSxFxNgE No.145599 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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It's my first time growing so i knew i would make mistakes.
I have this probleme, can you tell me what it is? I used Janeco light mix, i have a 400W lamp, the top of my plants are at 40cm of it, i extract 400 m3, im at 60 to 50% humidity.
I put 2L of water in 9L pots every 4-5 days (when i feel the dirt is dry), im at week 3 of bloom, i put 3mL of fertilizer per L of water every two watering. I add a PK booster 0-52-33 since last week every two watering too. Those traces appeared 3 weeks ago on one plant and now its on all my "Amnesia" plants (5 of them)
I can give you more details, more pictures if needed
2 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
George Muckleman - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 15:51:54 EST ID:rQdwx3xd No.145603 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Have you checked the plant symptom troubleshooters online?
If you haven't then check out this post.

After that, verify the suspected problem from the pics:

My two cents:
Doesn't look like it's the usual nutrient burn / or lack of nutes.
Looks more like a nutrient lockout caused by pH fluctuations.

I don't think it's a coincidence that the symptoms appeared when you switched to flower.
Might be that an essential blooming nutrient is not available with the current pH level.
DICHBICHE - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 16:21:24 EST ID:mSxFxNgE No.145604 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Thank you for your two cents, I don't have an electronic pH tester, I do it with a color solution so Im never sure of my pH, can a fluctation of 0.5-1 cause this?
From what i see, regarding the links, it could be Ca or Mn. I think i need to have a higher pH cause i usually water with 6 maybe lower
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 30 Nov 2017 01:35:37 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145605 Report Quick Reply

If you don't have a meter and you set your water by color strips or drops, then you add humic and fulvic acids, those drive it way down really quickly the same way if you add silicate it will drive it way up.

In soil 6.2-6.5 is optimal, some strains are a lot more forgiving than others. The wrong ratio of cal/mag can mess things up too if it's way off. That leaf looks mottled like a potassium or phosphorous problem, it usually doesn't affect just half of the leaf though. Potassium, magnesium and sulfur take the biggest hit when you dip below 5.5 ph in soil.
DICHBICHE - Wed, 13 Dec 2017 17:55:59 EST ID:mSxFxNgE No.145625 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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So, weird developpement to my probleme : here is my unaltered flowering fertilizer, is this a big probleme? I don't know if it mold or crystalization. Im going to get the fertilizer changed tomorrow anyway but having some thoughts could be helpful. Thanks in advance
Represent - Fri, 15 Dec 2017 04:49:59 EST ID:P6kAP9Du No.145633 Ignore Report Quick Reply
YOU DIDN'T update on how your plants are doing. I say stop all fertilizer before you destroy them, they most definitely have had enough nutrients. All these companies try to sell you their over priced fertilizer but remember there's tons of nutrients already in the soil. It's ok to supplement a bit but too much is too much and can be more detrimental than too little nutrients. Also, your pots look kinda shallow, I believe in deep large pots.

Pre sterilized bags by Esther Nebberwater - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 07:26:13 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.145627 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Just wondering exactly how to inoculate these bags. It has a black injector port, with tape over it, do I peel back the tape, inject then put the tape back, or do I just inject through the tape and cover the hole with some of my own tape?
Esther Nebberwater - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 07:31:11 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.145628 Ignore Report Quick Reply

The instructions for the grow kit do not say anything about tape, and in the pictures it appears they have just stuck the needle through the tape and the port and not bothered to cover with more tape. I know some use the self healing injector ports, but I can't find any indication the one I has is self healing nor do I know what a self healing injector port is.
press !Bomb6gttYE - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 15:49:27 EST ID:MZkGmkTE No.145631 Ignore Report Quick Reply
if its a self healing injection port, meaning that the material recloses when you withdraw the syringe, you dont have to bother with tape.

if in doubt just desinfect the port, inject and quickly conver with tape
Esther Nebberwater - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 16:45:00 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.145632 Ignore Report Quick Reply

Took a chance, if definitely sealed itself after which is nice

When I transplant? by David Hublingmon - Sat, 09 Dec 2017 22:42:47 EST ID:UTa1am+o No.145617 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I planted 3 seeds in a small shot glass and they sproutedand I'm a lil attached so I wanna put them in bigger single pots but idk when I should do it, can I do it now? How should I do it?
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 22:16:19 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145619 Report Quick Reply
Wait until they open fully and take a long spoon and scoop them out beneath the taproot with the soil still attached. Put them into soil with perlite in it.
Cyril Benderlut - Mon, 11 Dec 2017 18:44:28 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.145621 Ignore Report Quick Reply
The sooner the better
right now they only have a juicy tap root that is hard to damage

mushroom fruiting chamber sensors idea by Henry Firringnot - Thu, 07 Dec 2017 09:15:33 EST ID:4s3plGIc No.145615 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here I just had an idea for a project. We all know that keeping a fruiting chambers relative humidity above a certain point (people will argue about the exact number) is a major key to getting good flushes as well as fresh air exchange. My question is does the moisture level of the substrate cake you're using also have any kind of effect on fruiting? I ask because I came across this neat little "soil humidity sensor" that can interface with an arduino and I'm assuming a raspberry pi3 as well. I'm using the pi3 to semi automate a misting set up in my future fruiting chamber which will be using a RH sensor that interfaces with the pi3. Would sticking the soil humidity meter into a cake give me any benefit or would I just end up destroying a perfectly good cake? Again this is more just a neat little project idea I came up with.
Wesley Faffinghall - Sat, 09 Dec 2017 15:38:59 EST ID:LGIVCYvr No.145616 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>My question is does the moisture level of the substrate cake you're using also have any kind of effect on fruiting?

investigate it and tell us, also start with monotubs
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:11:38 EST ID:mPrNbQkB No.145618 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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any particular reason as to why youre using a raspberry pi? are you data logging via email or monitoring the chamber remotely? otherwise a microcontroller with a few relays will be enough be far

youre not talking about PF cakes are you? if so this whole set up will be a lot of effort for small scale returns.
some people love greenhouses, and they tend to love them back, but i only ever found them really useful compared to a monotub when running tests on newly isolated cubensis strains or fruiting pan. species

concerning the substrate humidity sensor, i dont think theres a lot to be gained since the relation between moisture content and fruiting formation is pretty obvious. just dunk after every flush. you can estimate the loss in water content by weighing fruiting bodies and watching the size reduction.

you should watch out with those digital RH sensors, some models are very unreliable above a certain threshold, youd definetely want to write a short program for recalibration against an analog hygrometer, and RH is really the only way to measure FAE seing as carbondioxide sensors arent that cheap, im not sure if the volatile organics could be used to measure stale air, but simply hooking up the fans to a time control should be enough since stamets gives good starting points on FAE frequency

god speed
Phineas Blackgold - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 23:05:38 EST ID:XLfj5LYA No.145620 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Not sure if you'd gain anything from sticking it INSIDE the cake, that you couldn't get by either keeping the RH at a certain point. The cake is going to transport what it needs from the outside. That is where RH matters. Keep that in the zone and you should be fine. No need to poke around inside the cake.

Grow by Eliza Cacklekine - Sun, 22 Oct 2017 20:21:00 EST ID:kj8KK8Ch No.145524 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So I'm buying one of these and I have a few questions

-how big of pots do I need for plants just to wait until I see their sex because I have 2 5 gallon buckets and want to start 5 seeds
-how much perlite should I put in the soil
-what is the cheapest soil I can get best for weed and nutrients
14 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Lillian Wenningham - Thu, 02 Nov 2017 17:12:05 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.145557 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Lumen is a measure for the apparent brightness according to how our eyes perceptive it. It is correct that it's not a good measure for efficiency when it comes to growing plants because they are affected be different wavelength in a different way than our vision.
However: When comparing lights with similar spectral emission characteristics it still can be useful. For instance it's perfectly reasonable to compare one HPS to another because their spectrum differs by a very little bit.
To some extent this also can be said for LEDs with the same color temperature, it will be more off than for a HPS but it's still useful. A HPS with 150Lumen/Watt is 15% more efficient than a 130Lumen/Watt one, within 1% because the spectra are almost identical. A 150Lumen/Watt 3000k LED is 50% more efficient to a 100Lumen/Watt 3000k LED within probably something like 10%.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 02 Nov 2017 18:03:57 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145558 Report Quick Reply

The other replies hit the nail on the head. If you want to measure power behind LED's, first know your spectrum. Every manufacturer will show you a spectrum chart on loose LEDs that you buy. Don't trust the Chinese or Hong Kong vendors on Ebay unless they're selling name brand packaged diodes, they'll tell you anything to get you to buy something like, "Yeah this identical diode we're advertising in another auction as a 420nm royal blue is also a 280 UVB bulb" It's usually too good to be true.

To measure LED intensity correctly you'll want to get a PAR meter.

Lillian Garringdale - Wed, 08 Nov 2017 09:14:41 EST ID:3FKmUudm No.145576 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yield isn't the only factor. Plants grown under blurple lights are never as complex in the smell and taste department. I've grown with different types of blurples and while they do produce weed, I wouldn't use them if I was the only person smoking the stuff.
Isabella Menkinnidge - Tue, 14 Nov 2017 04:10:46 EST ID:QI1rXhZY No.145584 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yeah but for the most part users on this site aren't strict connensewers. Indoors all you need is a stable enviroment within an enclosed reflective space for your plants. With around 200w of Cfl, or HPS or Led, and a correct understanding of this plants feeding/watering schedules, come harvest time you should have a decent yield. On top of that you know exactly what went into the grow as far as ferts and pesticides go.
Priscilla Drecklekid - Wed, 22 Nov 2017 01:10:57 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.145595 Ignore Report Quick Reply
-1 seed in each 5g will work
-go to hardware store or supermarket, gardening store, neighbors compost pile whatever is nearest and find out, etc. if you want to save money by using your own shit give it a go what the hell

It starts by John Gandercheg - Fri, 21 Aug 2015 23:48:38 EST ID:djYsvRob No.140610 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Came home from work and my new seedling has sprouted!

Strain is Dinafem's Blue Cheese. According to Dinafem, flowering time for Blue Cheese is 50 days, and should begin before the plant reaches 15 inches.

Grow medium is Fox Farm's Ocean Forest mixed 50/50 with perlite in a 4-gallon grow pot. Nutes are Fox Farms trio, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. From what I understand, Ocean Forest is nutrient-rich enough that adding nutes isn't necessary until flowering begins.

I'll be vegging her under a 2 ft T5 with two 24-watt bulbs, and three 42 watt CFLs. At the moment only the T5 and one of the CFLs is on, the other two will come on once she gets a little bigger. For flower, I'll be using a 300 watt Mars Hydro LED. The LED arrived earlier today, never used one before. Despite being pretty cheap, construction is solid and all the lights work properly. There's no on/off switch, which I don't like, but it shouldn't be an issue.

I don't know whether I'll be scrogging this plant or mainlining.
286 posts and 188 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Caroline Nunnerwell - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 04:44:02 EST ID:K7elgYR+ No.145567 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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All bags inoculated. The 4 GTs are all bright white and fluffy, but the two PE's are grayish and mossier looking. The first PE never fruited, seems likely the syringe was contaminated.

Yep, all shrooms harvested so far came from a bag with a built in self-healing injector port. The bags without the built in port are cheaper though, if a little riskier to inoculate.

just the bottom right tub was dry.
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 07:17:16 EST ID:V9l2ysWH No.145568 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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yeah, your Golden teacher bag seems to have suitable genetics. is there a specific reason why you opted against trays in a greenhouse or monotubs? you could easily double your yield and make rehydrating between flushes easier, the contam risk isnt that high with coir/verm bulk substrate if your spawn is healthy .

what temp are those heating beds set too? with bags you have to be wary of internal temperature.

i dont know how much work and money you are willing to invest, but at what 25 bucks a bag you might want to get a big PC - maybe an all american? rye and empty bags are cheap as fuck. i get rye for something like 28 bucks per 50kg -plus 5 bucks shipping cost- and microfilter bags at 85 cents per piece. so not counting verm, coir and gypsum which are piss cheap you could get between a hundred to two hundred grams per kg of grain

allthough sterilizing bags is quite time intensive opposed to the half litre jars i often use.

i also recommend moving onto agar work since it enables you to preserve genetics of a well fruiting culture, and using liquid innoculant shortens colonization time of grain by 4-6 days at least
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 07:18:36 EST ID:V9l2ysWH No.145569 Ignore Report Quick Reply
also, sorry for double posting but what do you mean by grey concerning your PE bag?
sure its not cobweb?
Edwin Hannerstine - Sun, 19 Nov 2017 04:26:39 EST ID:K7elgYR+ No.145589 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Week five of flower.

Clones all recovered from transplant, growing nicely. Strangely, IG#3 on the far right has developed buds, and its fan leaves are covered with trichomes. Reminds me of the first time I grew an auto.

I'm a newbie to shroom growing, and the bag tek seemed like a cheap and low risk starting point. For the most part it's worked well, it was easy to integrate into the grow room, prep and maintenance has been pretty easy, and it's still giving flushes. I've tripped almost daily for the past month and still have plenty of shrooms to last until the new bags start yielding. That said, will probably move on to jars and tubs once I get more experienced. The pack of six 1-pound bags cost $33 shipped so not a huge investment, a nice pressure cooker, agar solutions, laminar hood, ect are all on the wishlist for the future.

Noticeably darker in color than the GT, not nearly as fluffy. Lots of yellow fluidy excretions. It may indeed be cobweb. Probably gonna toss the two PE's outside into the mulch pile.
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 19 Nov 2017 06:50:48 EST ID:5Bse8gaJ No.145590 Ignore Report Quick Reply
i wouldnt toss them since at the moment theyre still well contained and some cubensis mycellium can be very whispy. a good way to identify cobweb without a magnifying glass is to measure the speed at which the mycellium spreads.
but the secretion sounds like cubensis fighting off some bacteria never had cobweb do that before. if you should have to toss it be sure not to carry too much spores back to your grow room.

and hey, congratulations on taking up such a nice hobby.
im still amazed that its possible to turn horseshit into such a great drug

and you really dont have to have a laminar flowhood eventhough it makes so much more comfortable, a big SAB is good enough for agar work and prepping inoculant syringes.

Shrooms-Pint glass/jam jars rye tek by Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 07:44:10 EST ID:CdeKassd No.145578 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Brit here who can't get them wide mouth canning jars unless he orders online.I don't want to do that.
I've read this brand of jam jars in the picture are fine to use.Any one used them ? I have a 9ml syringe how many of these 370g jars could I fill up(will be using a mono tub afterwards)

Also read you can use pint drinking glass.just put a bit of tyvek over the top then wrap 3 layers of tin foil over the top.
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 07:52:35 EST ID:CdeKassd No.145579 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>is this the correct way to make jars.

>rinse rye grain with water,soak over night,bring to boil for 10mins then strain.

>put rye into jars.5/16 hole into lids,cover top with tyvek(super glue it onto it?) wrap tin foil over top.

>pressure cook jars 1 hour at 15psi.sot jars on top of a wet towel so they don't break.let jars cool in P.C over night.

>sterilise everything,inject spores into jars,2 squirts one each side.cover hole with a plaster,rolll jars around.

>place jars in plastic tub sat o top of a heat mat(house is cold) then wait u till full collanized
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 08:53:33 EST ID:CdeKassd No.145580 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Also what pressure cooker would you suggest out of these (or suggest another one whats sold in the uk)

>MORPHY RICHARD 6 L,14.5 psi £49.99

>TOWER T90102 7.5 L no information on the PSI. £37.99

> VÄRDESÄTTA 6 L 14.5 psi £39

>Salter Pressure Cooker - 7 Litre 11.6psi ££49.99
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 09:04:28 EST ID:CdeKassd No.145581 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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what about this jam jar ?
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 11:26:24 EST ID:CdeKassd No.145582 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Or this big jar of polish.

Also I'm thinkgoing big of using popcorn instead of rye as I can't find it any where
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sat, 18 Nov 2017 13:25:37 EST ID:F2n040Hc No.145588 Ignore Report Quick Reply
you can use jar without a threading, but id recommend against it.
those glasses are good but you'd have a lot of marmelade. couldnt you order spawn bags over the internet? i really like to use bags for monotubs. any kind of jar that has a top with a popping mechanism will work

>add gypsum to your grain as you soak them
>i normally tape the holes up with medical pore tape, instead of tyvek, but thats only because i find it more convenient
>pressure cook for atleat 90min at 15psi, be careful not to have the glasses in direct contact with the bottom of the cooker.
>be sure to shake the syringe, dont mix the grains after injecting. the spores have to come in contact with eachother, shake at 30% percent colonization

id recommend against popcorn, i find it finicky to get the moisture right. popcorn often ends in bacterial contamination for me. if you could order online you can get it really cheap

id recommend getting the biggest PC you can afford as long as you know it runs at atleast 15psi. once youve chosen a PC you can calculate which jars would fill it in the most efficient way

im really high right now, please feel free to ask any questions

howto tell when ready? by Barnaby Cuffingfadge - Fri, 27 Oct 2017 09:34:47 EST ID:SaNmv8i2 No.145535 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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what am i looking for to tell my weed is ready to be harvested? i know i have a month or so left to wait as i'm only in the 6th week.
what should a ready to harvest bud look like? here are three buds of 3 different plants to see where i am at.
4 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Caroline Nimmlecocke - Fri, 03 Nov 2017 19:11:18 EST ID:+rl+/YJ3 No.145559 Ignore Report Quick Reply
just got the loupe in the mail today. am i looking at the big hairs or the tiny mushroom shaped crystals?
Cedric Pickwill - Fri, 03 Nov 2017 19:42:06 EST ID:mAX3GZUK No.145560 Ignore Report Quick Reply
When 80% of the hairs are orange was my guide, maybe a little bit more.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 01:30:32 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145565 Report Quick Reply
The crystals
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:10:38 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145574 Report Quick Reply
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When your trichomes/crystals start to lean over like this, and when they're roughly half milky and half amber in color, is when it's done and ready to harvest.
Lillian Garringdale - Wed, 08 Nov 2017 09:09:00 EST ID:3FKmUudm No.145575 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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A plant is ready for harvest when all the stigmas have turned orange/brown and receded into the calyxes which should be swollen. At this point the trichome heads will be milky and amber. If there are white stigmas left in the plant, it's more than likely not ready. Sometimes new white stigmas appear when the plant is under stress, for example if it's being flushed. Stigmas that appear at this point should be ignored.

Pictured plant is almost ready to be harvested. Pictured plant is not ready for harvest even though most of the stigmas on most of the buds were orange.

Seed in my weed by smeagle - Fri, 13 Oct 2017 18:10:48 EST ID:paCUvU57 No.145480 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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2-3 weeks ago i found a seed in my weed. I decided "why the hell not" . So i planted in a decent sized pot, with flower soil, fertilizer included. had it under a halogen light for the first 1 1/2 week. This week bought a Led grow light, pretty sexpensive. Does it look ok to be around 3 weeks old? Should i tranplant it not or wait. got no idea what the roots look like at this point, dont even know how to lift it all out of the pot.

thankfull for tips and stuff. And i know i want a female. but a male could work too. how many grams yield am i looking at if its a male? think in terms of cannabutter.
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Hugh Snodlock - Tue, 31 Oct 2017 11:45:40 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.145547 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>It is nonsense metric without the time used included.
No It's not. Because most people don't grow in an industrial style 365 days a year what counts is what you get for each grow.
In addition good strains yield the same independently of how long they take.

Read up on the gramm per watt debate on icmag or something if you don't believe me.
Augustus Blizzlewill - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 08:11:13 EST ID:paCUvU57 No.145570 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Heres a 5 week update
Augustus Blizzlewill - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 08:13:14 EST ID:paCUvU57 No.145571 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Also its decidedly female. Im 99% sure. the small pistils that become the buds are pointy and long and not small and round.
Augustus Blizzlewill - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 08:17:03 EST ID:paCUvU57 No.145572 Ignore Report Quick Reply
And i can see why bigger lights are better. the lower branches arent getting as much light as they would in the wild.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:06:43 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.145573 Report Quick Reply

It's looking great now, right before the stage it's at now, like a week prior, is when you can start to feed it a complete veg formula and not have to worry about it being stunted. That plant in week 5 is what most should look like in week 4.

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