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lights n ting by Matilda Pockstone - Sun, 02 Oct 2016 17:27:35 EST ID:mNOur/qr No.143500 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1475443655380.png -(107662B / 105.14KB, 336x165) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 107662
Ive got a tent in flower under 1200w of hps full spectrum.
Ive started setting up a second much smaller tent so I can have a go at mainlining and the two should finish around the same time.

I was gonna be running 1800w 12 hours a day and a further 6 hours of 600w so I thought why dont I use the flowering tent for the first 12 hours of vegging and move them to the other tent for the last 6 hours of the day, moving them back each night. Bit of effort maybe but why wouldn't that work?
Then Ive only got an extra 6 hours of 600w a day to fund.

I was gonna ram a 600w hps in a 3'x3'x5' tent with one, maybe 2 plants and train the fuck out of them.
I realized 600w may be too much.
Im thinking with my wallet more too and I cant decide between 300w CFL or 250w HPS.

CFL is cheaper to run and to buy.
That is important to me.
HPS is better light and better yield.
That is important to me.
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Nathaniel Sovingforth - Mon, 03 Oct 2016 16:53:10 EST ID:ZssmxdDN No.143507 Ignore Report Quick Reply
What I'm getting at is a fixture like this one: http://tinyurl.com/zgxorbr uses like 400 watts and should be good to veg out enough to fill your other tent.
Angus Noddlechock - Mon, 03 Oct 2016 18:57:52 EST ID:1yibxkNQ No.143508 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1475535472829.jpg -(796790B / 778.12KB, 2000x1500) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
in the long run LEDs will save you all the worry over money, plus they make these cool psychedelic shadows
Esther Bridgegold - Wed, 05 Oct 2016 05:48:47 EST ID:mNOur/qr No.143515 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1475660927082.jpg -(19545B / 19.09KB, 500x200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
I appreciate your advice guys, I do, but what Im asking is will the change from 12 hours of 1200w hps light to 6 hours 300w cfl in the same day be a problem?

Im not spending £100 on a 300w LED
nor am I buying 5' T5's

Will the switch from hps to cfl within the 18 hours veg period shock the plant in anyway?
Clara Dozzlebine - Wed, 05 Oct 2016 14:58:05 EST ID:qqWmIiIn No.143521 Ignore Report Quick Reply

The CFL will do you no good. 300w of CFL is less than 1/4 of the light as 1200w of HPS. It should keep it from going into bloom, though, which seems to be all that you want. And trust me, after doing it a few times, you're going to hate moving your plants.

But good luck, nonetheless, sir.
Caroline Sicklelud - Fri, 07 Oct 2016 13:52:57 EST ID:mNOur/qr No.143534 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I was kinda hoping it wouldnt be a waste but I guess, like you said, I am just stopping it from turning so its not a total waste.



Absorbent substrate, or some such by Fucking Dartforth - Wed, 14 Sep 2016 13:10:46 EST ID:jzsrCo1A No.143283 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1473873046616.jpg -(44668B / 43.62KB, 576x403) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 44668
I'm doing a project that requires really shallow space. Roots are not a problem but I need some really absorbent material to set the plants on. Any material suggestions?
Fanny Dartworth - Tue, 04 Oct 2016 02:05:24 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.143512 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yes this is a thing, NFT (Nutrient Film Technique)

They sell spreader mats manufactured especially for this purpose.
John Bucklestug - Tue, 04 Oct 2016 07:49:40 EST ID:LFPh87c8 No.143513 Ignore Report Quick Reply
rockwool slab

Mycelium vs mold by Augustus Tootshaw - Sat, 01 Oct 2016 23:08:53 EST ID:kJ6L/Ex7 No.143492 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1475377733552.png -(505702B / 493.85KB, 634x476) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 505702

I found this video and I'm starting to think contamination isn't as big of a deal as people make it out to be.
Matilda Drerringcocke - Sun, 02 Oct 2016 06:04:27 EST ID:ww9HLfpE No.143498 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Awesome video.
Hedda Bimmledock - Mon, 03 Oct 2016 02:29:34 EST ID:ufGUMLRr No.143504 Ignore Report Quick Reply
No, it is and it is dangerous. Some strains can overcome trichoderma, but psilocybin containing ones can not. You can get REALLY sick inhaling molds. Also, trichoderma is a good sign that there is some bacteria present as well in the grain.

Just don't use moldy jars at all unless you are dumping them outsid to establish a crop outdoors.
press - Mon, 03 Oct 2016 07:08:22 EST ID:uVFjy7a8 No.143505 Ignore Report Quick Reply
yeah go right ahead and test that for cubensis.
the mushroom displayed in the video is known to be so fucking radical that it can poison worms and then eat them.

cubensi can fend of some bacterial contaminants quite well but trichoderma on the other hand
Jenny Snodway - Sun, 09 Oct 2016 05:05:20 EST ID:Iqb77Who No.143549 Ignore Report Quick Reply

/crops/'s plant pix by Doris Sibblelock - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 19:22:23 EST ID:1yibxkNQ No.143477 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1475277743094.jpg -(2988172B / 2.85MB, 2845x2414) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 2988172
everyone post their weed plant pics ITT, by the end of harvest season we'll have a huge gallery of free drugs. i got a mushroom patch that, with luck (luck = rain) gets hot around then too.

here is a photo of someone else's plant, its a better photo than i got of a better plant than i got

trim by Emma Dreblingwell - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 18:37:13 EST ID:LFPh87c8 No.143476 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1475275033857.jpg -(72555B / 70.85KB, 400x298) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 72555
i cut away some top leafs that gone bad due to nutrient shenanigans
They where xxl large and blocking

Did i do the right thing or should i have waited for the plant to suck out all nutrients from them ?

Panic by Edwin Fovingdale - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 16:18:20 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.143473 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I have 2 plants growing at the moment, one blue cheese and one strawberry cough. They're on day 58 of flowering, and I've noticed some bud rot on the blue cheese.

I trimmed off the affected buds and managed to salvage a fair bit, but I'm not sure how to proceed. The strawberry shows no sign of infection, very healthy but needs about another 10 or so days. The blue cheese buds at the top I cut off still have some white pistils so could use a little longer.

Do I remove the blue cheese completely, cut my losses and harvest what I can early to protect the strawberry, or let the blue cheese buds finish up?
Edwin Fovingdale - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 16:59:50 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.143474 Ignore Report Quick Reply

Also I've read about barneys farm blue cheese being prone to hermie, I found a small seed in one of the blue cheese buds, I'm assuming seeds being present means one of them is a hermie and both of them are fucked?

Strawberry doesn't seem to be fattening up very much which makes me think its got some seeds growing too. Can't see any male organs anywhere on either plant so hard to tell. Would the best action in the case of the strawberry having seeds be to harvest everything and just start over?
Phoebe Tillingwell - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 18:10:08 EST ID:Gh+FCskv No.143475 Ignore Report Quick Reply
some hermie produce their male flowers inside the calyxes, seeding that calyx, but not producing any pollen outside it.
if thats the case in you BC then your SC should still come out seedless.

Poor and growing indoor by Priscilla Fullygold - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 23:59:18 EST ID:S0N8h2Y9 No.143429 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1474948758184.jpg -(13063B / 12.76KB, 640x640) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 13063
So this is my first time at an indoor grow op. I have a pretty ghetto set up but I think it should be sufficient to at least get something to grow. I'm not looking to end up with dank ass medical grade herb. I just want to be successful AT ALL.

So I've glued aluminum foil to the entire inside of a rubbermade tote (approximately 30 inches tall), cut out two holes and mounted CPU fans to them. One for intake, one exhaust. And I'm using two 30 watt CFLs on a lamp fixture I jury rigged.

Is this sufficient lighting and space to at least get a decent first-time grow?
5 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Priscilla Fullygold - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 02:58:30 EST ID:S0N8h2Y9 No.143438 Ignore Report Quick Reply
So what would you add or do different? More lighting I assume.
Give me some advice for my first grow instead of just telling me it won't work.

I Know I didn't originally ask for wisdom and advice, but now I am.
Betsy Dendlemidge - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 10:27:43 EST ID:LFPh87c8 No.143440 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Here is a great resource for micro growing

Dont expect much yield, see it as a practice run
Edwin Billingshit - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 10:57:55 EST ID:+HzC/ENB No.143441 Ignore Report Quick Reply
No, it's not tall big enough. Also the space buckets thing works I've read.
Priscilla Fullygold - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 11:21:14 EST ID:S0N8h2Y9 No.143443 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Most of those space buckets look kinda small compared to my setup. Plus, mine's already built. And I plan on using LST to keep it short.
Beatrice Dungerleck - Fri, 30 Sep 2016 05:03:19 EST ID:QI1rXhZY No.143467 Ignore Report Quick Reply
You might cultivate a small plant that could probably yield up to an oz. You would have to start flowering when the seedling is around 1 week old or so, and more than likely do some training. It would be the same or more effort as growing a big plant with almost nothing to show for it. You would need a grow box that is at least 2x2x4. and more light as the plant grows, esp. for flowering. Make use of training techniques like topping, LST, and defoliation for the best use of what little space and light you have to work with. You're still going to end up with a small plant with a small yield, but it should be around 4 times as much .

crop by Angus Pittdale - Sat, 24 Sep 2016 09:01:07 EST ID:gk5w4EHg No.143382 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1474722067021.jpg -(2666641B / 2.54MB, 1836x3264) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 2666641
Whats wrong with these leafs? All of the other plants are looking fine as hell! Don't wanna fuck that plant up tho
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sat, 24 Sep 2016 20:36:40 EST ID:w/eMcEZe No.143392 Report Quick Reply
If you want to prep the soil beforehand before you put something outdoors, start in the few months prior to planting and spread some horse of cow manure out on the plat and mix it into the soil. Do it about once a week in the weeks leading up to planting, and the week of planting add a few other things like azomite, mushroom compost, seasoned kitchen compost, bonemeal, and/or fish emulsions. You can get a huge bag of perlite also and work that into the soil if it has a lot of clay in it, to help make the soil lighter and drain better.

If you use chicken or pig manure, be very careful how much you add because it's considered a 'hot' manure that will burn the plants if you add too much. The other types you don't really have to worry about overdoing it.
Augustus Dillykure - Sat, 24 Sep 2016 21:18:57 EST ID:1yibxkNQ No.143394 Ignore Report Quick Reply
If your plant is big enough you might try topdressing with relatively fresh compost, its decay will generate some heat to keep the soil microbes happy, but you really need a pretty big compost pile to generate any sort of heat.
Jack Donkinwill - Sun, 25 Sep 2016 01:19:32 EST ID:JTHKUYyx No.143397 Ignore Report Quick Reply
It's disease not nitro. Leafs gradually turn yellow before they fall off, and its more uniform than this pic. This pic still has some green.

Also, look at the bottom of the main stem. It's rotten.

I would kill it so disease doesn't spread. You could also spray it with some beneficial bacteria that might have a chance of out competing the disease. It appears to be fungal (though I really don't know it could be viral or bacterial).
Nathaniel Genkinstat - Sun, 25 Sep 2016 07:46:08 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.143401 Ignore Report Quick Reply
It's nitro, there is certainly other stuff too but that may be a symptom of the nitrogen deficiency in the sense that a weak plant gets sick easily.
The large internode spacing and narrow stem hint in that direction too..

The plant certainly hasn't been watered enough too, jep, and never watering it might lead to this result regardless of the soil.
It might not be that the soil has too little nitrogen overall but also that it's not available to the plant, but I'm certain that no low temperatures during the summer can make a plant look like that.
Barnaby Fanway - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 20:16:18 EST ID:Io5QjLcB No.143444 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Looks like a potassium deficiency is the main nutrient it is lacking. The yellow leaves with spotting near the top right and bottom right show this, as well as the weak stem. The dead leaves need to be pruned off, if it does have a disease you don't want it spreading. Because there are multiple deficiencies I would suggest checking the ph of your water. Watering with the proper ph will ensure your plant gets everything it needs. What is your ph at?

Microgrowing? by Jack Pivingsick - Fri, 09 Sep 2016 11:30:27 EST ID:JM5R3wpI No.143239 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1473435027915.gif -(2039011B / 1.94MB, 500x500) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 2039011
So I have a decent amount of land in sunny ass florida, it's urban, but I have a fence and have a decently large backyard with many other plants being gardened. I'm trying to figure out how to grow small plants that may not yield a whole lot individually, but still yield, and without being too smelly or noticeable. Any ideas y'all? I have supplies for organic plant growing, compost soil, and a bunch of bagseeds, I'd basically just like to grow a small amount without pouring resources into it.

8 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Charles Genkinstutch - Thu, 15 Sep 2016 17:49:47 EST ID:JM5R3wpI No.143288 Ignore Report Quick Reply
A significant amount, especially considering how much denser the plants grow.
Lydia Finkinstone - Mon, 19 Sep 2016 03:01:41 EST ID:5d3ujmdq No.143330 Ignore Report Quick Reply

Combining these two designs would be great.
Each plant would have a self-contained, supporting structure.
Placing them into the larger structure would provide a way to throw shade on your ladies.

I would try to the practice of manipulating light to alter height and harvest. That way you can grow with excellent summer sun through to harvest, by forcing an early flower by draping a tarp over the larger structure.
Another thought would be to use the larger structure with a trellis attached like half way down and a shade cover over the whole thing.
I like these designs, I think they're great. Patent that shit.
Samuel Nollerladging - Sat, 24 Sep 2016 17:19:12 EST ID:JM5R3wpI No.143389 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1474751952155.jpg -(83163B / 81.21KB, 843x474) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Could you go into detail about forcing flower? How does that work.
Nathaniel Genkinstat - Sun, 25 Sep 2016 08:00:39 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.143403 Ignore Report Quick Reply
In high latitude regions where days are significantly longer than 12 hours during the summer hemp stays in vegetative growth till about the mid of July.
This means for some strains you don't have enough time left to finish the flowering cycle till temperatures get too cold and humid.

The approach to circumvent that is covering the plant in the evening with something that prevents light to get to the plant. You then remove the cover in the morning and voila the photo-period is 12 hours of light everyday.
You would only need to do it for two weeks starting on the 1st of July.

The benefit is a mold-free crop which is very hard to archive outdoors if you don't live near the equator.
Ebenezer Worthingforth - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 07:38:58 EST ID:JM5R3wpI No.143439 Ignore Report Quick Reply
So since I'm in Florida I should be pretty close to ideal in terms of getting plants to flower quickly?

I have a seed, what do? by George Crishson - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 20:06:32 EST ID:3hcJ8rVg No.143425 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1474934792328.jpg -(156342B / 152.68KB, 1024x768) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 156342
I have a seed and no where to plant it, any ideas? I live with people who'd kick me out if I grew it inside and its fall so outside isn't really an option any more, but I want to grow it any one have any ideas? or any good ways to hide the plant while it grows? Also I've never grown any plant in my life, so any advice on growing this bad boy will be appreciated.
George Crishson - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 20:07:03 EST ID:3hcJ8rVg No.143426 Ignore Report Quick Reply
The seed is weed, I just realized I didnt clarify that, lmao.
Lydia Duckstock - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 00:39:04 EST ID:4pGuitg6 No.143431 Ignore Report Quick Reply
This is kind of a funny thread you posted, man.

>Can't grow inside

>Can't grow outside

>How do I grow this seed?

Short answer, you can't.
Rebecca Summerridge - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 01:58:54 EST ID:OhQMyhZ0 No.143433 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Treasure it
Edwin Billingshit - Tue, 27 Sep 2016 02:32:10 EST ID:+HzC/ENB No.143434 Ignore Report Quick Reply

most people don't realize you can germinate a seed in your pee-hole. the pee provides enough nitrogen to get it going, plus by germinating it in your pee hole you will form an eternal bond with the plant.

Halp by Cedric Sandleville - Thu, 01 Sep 2016 09:46:26 EST ID:okki1daK No.143190 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1472737586061.jpg -(3678779B / 3.51MB, 2340x4160) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 3678779
No clue what's going on with her gave her plenty of food and water. She's yellowing more and more despite adding more nitrogen
Amnesia haze autoflower, 400w hps, plagron bio growbox, +-20L earth
6 posts and 1 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Fanny Worthingdale - Sun, 25 Sep 2016 20:34:13 EST ID:aGwTTFlQ No.143409 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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OP it looks like late stage sulfur deficiency.
Wesley Hucklelock - Sun, 25 Sep 2016 20:34:29 EST ID:QkFu/ZLK No.143410 Ignore Report Quick Reply
OP it looks like late stage sulfur deficiency.
Beatrice Chengerman - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 07:08:32 EST ID:eaMSL/Zl No.143416 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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I have a plant about that size in a five gallons at first i thought it was a calmag problem so I bought some organic calmag and it still is dieing it turned out to be that the soil was the limiting factor and plant death from root bound looks like calmag

Transplant to a ten gallon or seven gallon and rake the roots a little is what us supposed to be done but my plant is flowering heavy and I can't move it so I took a butter knife and shaved the ousde two inches around the planter instead of a transplant
Beatrice Chengerman - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 07:28:58 EST ID:eaMSL/Zl No.143418 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Henry Sisslebut - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:04:59 EST ID:Vb23ZErm No.143419 Ignore Report Quick Reply
OP it looks like late stage pu$$y deficiency.

budding? by John Creblingstone - Wed, 03 Aug 2016 13:52:14 EST ID:dHKs93Mt No.142965 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1470246734678.png -(4075848B / 3.89MB, 1379x1386) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 4075848
first time grower here. outdoors, late plant, got five pots that made it to an okay size

is this one budding? female? it's the only one doing that and they've been in the same conditions
7 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Graham Snodway - Mon, 15 Aug 2016 13:14:07 EST ID:Ri1N8HZQ No.143056 Ignore Report Quick Reply
2x17w cold white t5 tubes
Perfect for seedlings and plants a few weeks old

The amount of tubes or length is really up to how many plants you want to fit under it

4x 17w would give you about 0,5m of grow space under the lights
Thomas Creblinghed - Thu, 08 Sep 2016 18:26:52 EST ID:dHKs93Mt No.143231 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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when's harvest time?

was a mid-June plant in the pacific northwest, nights getting cold and wet sometimes.
Thomas Creblinghed - Thu, 08 Sep 2016 18:29:24 EST ID:dHKs93Mt No.143232 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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another plant the rest of the tendrils white .
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 08 Sep 2016 23:21:18 EST ID:w/eMcEZe No.143235 Report Quick Reply
I wouldn't destroy a male from a known strain before you ask around and see if anyone wants it for their breeding program. There's males I would love to have if I were breeding strains, like ones that are so potent of a strain that even they have trichs around the base of each fan leaf and all up and down the main stalk and stems.


There's no real set date or time you can mark on the calendar for when they'll be done, after 7 weeks of days with less than 15 hours of daylight, get a jeweler's magnifier and look closely at the top bud of the plant and if the trichs have gone from milky to amber in appearance, and have begun to lean over at a near 90 degree angle, then it's safe to say that plant is ready to be cut. If they're between milky and amber and haven't begun to lean over yet, start flushing them with plain water and wait until they do.
Beatrice Chengerman - Mon, 26 Sep 2016 07:24:08 EST ID:eaMSL/Zl No.143417 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Plant twice as many as you need and clone twice as many just for insurance against problems

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