420chan now has a web-based IRC client available, right here
Leave these fields empty (spam trap):
You can leave this blank to post anonymously, or you can create a Tripcode by using the float Name#Password
[*]Italic Text[/*]
[**]Bold Text[/**]
[~]Taimapedia Article[/~]
[%]Spoiler Text[/%]
>Highlight/Quote Text
[pre]Preformatted & Monospace text[/pre]
1. Numbered lists become ordered lists
* Bulleted lists become unordered lists


Community Updates

420chan now supports HTTPS! If you find any issues, you may report them in this thread
Minimum requirement for veg by Shit Hattinggold - Wed, 29 Mar 2017 21:11:36 EST ID:MjtUnaEM No.144368 Ignore Report Quick Reply
File: 1490836296327.png -(22757B / 22.22KB, 340x401) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 22757
So I'm gonna try growing for the first time, and I was hoping to veg for 4 or so weeks then put them outside. What do I need for basics? Don't have the money right now to set up any elaborate indoor tent or anything yet
Archie Hedgefoot - Thu, 30 Mar 2017 00:07:36 EST ID:lE51QiPd No.144369 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Google "CFL grow." That is your best bet.
It sounds like you are going to finish them outside? In that case, CFL is perfect to get things started.
Wesley Wagglelurk - Thu, 30 Mar 2017 09:35:13 EST ID:xthRZCcw No.144386 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Depends how many plants you plan to fit under the lights
Up to 2 weeks not much happens so you can use weak lights
Then they start to take off and you need much more
Shit Hattinggold - Thu, 30 Mar 2017 15:28:58 EST ID:MjtUnaEM No.144387 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1490902138327.jpg -(403320B / 393.87KB, 1600x1136) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
OP here, are there any 250w lights, cfl or metal halide for a temporary fix? I'm flowering outdoors until the fall then I'll dive into closet growing with a 600w light
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Fri, 31 Mar 2017 23:59:49 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144398 Report Quick Reply

Yes, you can even find HPS and MH in the 100W range if you wanted to buy a cheap kit and bulb from Lowes or Home Depot. The bulb isn't going to be an Eye Hortilux or any fancy spectrum tuned bulb, it's going to have a spectrum tuned to light up a garage or a barn but it will work. At 20-30$ for a 100w range bulb from the store, you should also be able to swap it for a new one at least every 6 months, or your intensity is going to drop off by a noticeable margin.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sat, 01 Apr 2017 00:01:11 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144399 Report Quick Reply

also get a lux meter, you need at least 7000 lux at the base of the plant to even initiate photosynthesis, so make sure you're up to par at the furthest point from the lamp once you're set up.
Cedric Nugglewill - Wed, 05 Apr 2017 13:45:41 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.144439 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1491414341285.jpg -(71166B / 69.50KB, 1171x860) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>you need at least 7000 lux at the base of the plant to even initiate photosynthesis
Not so fast!

Is there some threshold below where the energy isn't enough for the plant to grow larger?

Will it do photosynthesis below it's threshold?
How do you think it's organism stays alive? Definitely yes.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:47:27 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144489 Report Quick Reply

That's true, I never fully understood PAR and still have yet to get a PAR meter. What I should've said is at 7000 lux is the line between the plant being alive but dormant for all purposes, and actively trying to grow.
William Pallynut - Sun, 09 Apr 2017 20:04:15 EST ID:lE51QiPd No.144491 Ignore Report Quick Reply
PAR is easy.
All PAR is, is a reading of the light that the plant can use in photosynthesis. Basically, it is a light meter that ignores the big swath of green light that plants can't use. This way, you measure only the light the plant can use, not just all the light around. I mean, think of it, 10,000 lux would be pointless if it was all green light the plant couldn't use.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Mon, 10 Apr 2017 23:39:32 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144505 Report Quick Reply

That's how it was explained to me, but with all the common arguments I hear between growers as to what constitutes usable wavelength, that there would be a noticeable difference between readouts depending on who built the measuring tool and what their personal opinion was. I can attest to UV-B and C, and IR up to 730 being usable and manipulable to make certain plants and even certain strains of the same plant react and grow differently. IR can be used to produce the Emerson effect which can give you nearly a full day extra worth of light per week by keeping the plant in it's bloom cycle under 14-16 hours of light per day. I've also seen marked difference by using reptile bulbs high in UV-B to enhance the oil output on a plant in bloom cycle as a defensive reaction the same way we sweat or get sunburned.
Jack Pickman - Wed, 12 Apr 2017 22:11:14 EST ID:lE51QiPd No.144541 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1492049474221.jpg -(112101B / 109.47KB, 400x400) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
> I've also seen marked difference by using reptile bulbs high in UV-B to enhance the oil output on a plant in bloom cycle as a defensive reaction the same way we sweat or get sunburned.

Please, go on. This sounds interesting. I've heard something about this before, and this interests me, as it could be a cheap way to up my production in my limited space.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Wed, 12 Apr 2017 22:45:22 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144543 Report Quick Reply

I stumbled over it like most things, by accident when I had one of those Repti-Sun 10.0 CFLs screwed into a reflector that I was using for side lighting on lower branches to supplement the first run of really weak red/blue LEDs overhead. The few side branches closest to that single bulb just had a different look to them, they looked healthier and reached out for the bulb using the whole branch. The oil content was higher in that branch, not by a huge amount but a noticeable margin that made it worth going out and buying 4 more.
I spent several days researching UV LEDs to add to a newer revision of what I was running only to find out that the UV-C 400-320nm range were nearly double the cost of a 420nm blue module of the same size. Worst yet was the intensity, only around half of that same comparable 420nm blue. It got worse as I worked my way toward the Xray spectrum below UV-A, the UV-B's that I wanted were around 500$ each for a 50 watt module and the intensity was almost laughable. No ass behind it at all, like 5-10 lux at most per 10 watts of power in the 280-320nm range. The only thing that came close to the intensity that I wanted from a UV-B LED were medical air sanitizers and anti-bacterial lights for endocrinology/pediatricians, etc. Those ran into the thousands of dollars very quickly, so Cree and Phillips and others have a long way to go before they release something in not only the correct spectrum for UV, but a desirable intensity as well for a fair price.
This is all circumvented though by going to Walmart and buying some 8 dollar shop light reflectors with a bowl shaped hood and the big clip on the back. Get one or more of the ReptiGlow 26w bulbs from Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101GDIG or they also sell them in T5 if that's your flavor, and you'll be putting out more UV-B and C than 1000W worth of today's current offering of UV LED's.
Ebenezer Nennerson - Thu, 13 Apr 2017 05:02:07 EST ID:6vW5dDN5 No.144550 Ignore Report Quick Reply
do you have pictures of the healthier side branches and the less good looking top ones? those would be hella interesting pics
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 13 Apr 2017 18:45:26 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144562 Report Quick Reply

At the time it didn't occur to me. The difference was mostly vigor, between leaves just sticking straight out or just hanging to the branch, to actually reaching upwards towards light.
Wesley Brezzlehere - Thu, 13 Apr 2017 19:20:50 EST ID:xCjYWm+N No.144563 Ignore Report Quick Reply
The T5s sound like a PERFECT solution for my tent. I could squeeze 2....maybe 4 in my grow tent.

And yeah, I have heard that LEDs suck ass at UV.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 13 Apr 2017 21:24:51 EST ID:Z5JAvHDD No.144564 Report Quick Reply

The best thing about t5's is for what power they use, they're the best at UV production that I've found, and if you look up Pioneer units made by Sunleaves I think, you can get anything from 2,4,6,8,12 and 16 bulb units in either 24" or 48" bulbs. They have plugs in them so you can daisychain them together in series if you wanted to. With all those size options you can pretty much make them fit into a tent or a certain area that you already have set up.
Nigel Crizzleson - Fri, 14 Apr 2017 00:38:13 EST ID:xCjYWm+N No.144565 Ignore Report Quick Reply
You had me at daisy chained. Last thing I need is to have to add a power strip to a power strip on an extension cord.... My cheapy LEDs do that. Nice feature.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Fri, 14 Apr 2017 18:51:56 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.144572 Report Quick Reply

Before you start plugging them into one another try and keep the chain below 800w total. I tried 1400W once across 3 LED arrays and it bbq'd the cord to the last one, it was too much. Careful how you load the circuits total also, most house circuits are 15A and will blow a fuse beyond that.
Nigel Billywire - Sat, 15 Apr 2017 00:36:56 EST ID:xCjYWm+N No.144574 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I'd probably do a 48" 2 bulb on either side of my hood.
I certainly know about circuits. I am having to spend some decent cash on an electrician to expand my grow capabilities as well as to make some rooms functional.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sat, 15 Apr 2017 01:00:01 EST ID:uUnVQb2w No.144575 Report Quick Reply

See if your electrician can run you at least 4 individual 30A breakers for the bloom room, and one 30A or 2x 20A for the veg room. Even if you don't use all 4 dedicated circuits for a long time, you'll never even be getting it close to overloading a circuit, even if you plugged 80%+ into one timer going into one plug. Get one of the 4 outlet GFCI plugs for each circuit that have the little doors on them that snap shut instead of leaving them exposed.

They also have indoor and outdoor wiring in the 15,20 and 30A ranges. I would personally pay the extra amount to put all outdoor rated wiring to give an added amount of protection in a room where you'll be running anywhere from 30-90% humidity at times.

Worst case scenario, you pay to have all this put in and only use a portion of it's capabilities, then later when you sell your house, the people that buy it take a look at the room and all the wires running to your junction box and say, "I wonder wtf this guy was doing?"
Nigel Billywire - Sat, 15 Apr 2017 10:21:21 EST ID:xCjYWm+N No.144579 Ignore Report Quick Reply
LOL! Fortunately I grow in a basement and also have power tools for "cover." Then again, I am in a legal state so...

Yeah, that sounds like good advice. Over build a bit...make it safe as fuck.

Report Post
Please be descriptive with report notes,
this helps staff resolve issues quicker.