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WEED IS LEGAL IN CANADA! Live 420chan Q&A and Site Merchandise Giveaways on Stream

Live 420chan Q&A, 420chan merchandise giveaways, Logitech hardware giveaways, partying on Twitch tonight!
G502 Giveaway Ends @ Midnight     Q&A Discussion Thread
russet mites by Oliver Waffingtig - Wed, 13 Jun 2018 23:10:30 EST ID:uBY6Q3qf No.146058 Ignore Report Quick Reply
File: 1528945830876.jpg -(313062B / 305.72KB, 650x862) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 313062
russet mite discussion:
what to do about them?
how to prevent them?
>>
Priscilla Cuffingchetch - Thu, 14 Jun 2018 03:16:40 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146059 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Wettable sulfur once a week until flower, then switch to predator mites.
>>
Graham Dallerstock - Fri, 15 Jun 2018 00:18:43 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146060 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146059
I got my first signs about a week ago and started spraying diluted ethanol and citric acid every third day. Still to early to do say if its doing the trick, but I've killed mites with this mix before. Afterwards I use diatomaceous earth to keep any survivors at bay until resin formation starts, then i rinse off the DE because resin pretests the plant pretty nicely.
Have you used sulphur to combat russet mites successfully before?
>>
Sidney Turveydale - Fri, 15 Jun 2018 18:03:37 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146065 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146060
I haven't had much luck with DE stemming russets at all... I'd rather let the local predators come in and eat.
Sulfur, when applied once a week, will knock out just about everything tiny or fungal.
There remains some question how much it affects the soil microbes, but I haven't noticed any real problems.
>>
Barnaby Gocklehatch - Tue, 19 Jun 2018 20:58:24 EST ID:uBY6Q3qf No.146076 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146065
Thanks, one thing I noticed on my autos is that the ones that started showing resin really early seem to have protected themselves from mites very effectively, but the ones that were in veg or just starting to flower when warm weather started up got eaten pretty badly before I started spraying lemon ethanol on them and now they're recovering pretty nicely. So I think cannabis resin make it hard for the mites to eat and with that in mind I started spraying cannabis tincture with the lemon instead of just plain ethanol.
>>
Nigel Smallforth - Wed, 20 Jun 2018 00:14:38 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146077 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146076
Not quite. Russets actually EAT the trichomes.
>>
William Drammerwell - Wed, 20 Jun 2018 15:14:59 EST ID:sDYSBE1+ No.146080 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Can I just take a moment to say FUCK HAWTHORN FLIES. FUCK INSECTS IN GENERAL.

Worthless faggots keep ruining all my plants with their greedy root-devouring worm babies. I'm tempted to switch to hydroponics, I get the idea that it'd be EASIER than plain dirt growing.
>>
Hugh Dobblebock - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 01:19:39 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146082 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146080
Hawthorn flies lay eggs in fruit.
Fungus gnats?
>>
Priscilla Fandale - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 06:26:34 EST ID:sDYSBE1+ No.146083 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146082
Dilophus febrilis, their larvae eat at the roots.
>>
Ian Simmletit - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 07:29:05 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.146084 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146083
I noticed gnats only thrive in fresh peat
once composted they never show up again
>>
Priscilla Fandale - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 10:10:25 EST ID:sDYSBE1+ No.146086 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146084
Thanks for the tip, at this point I'm really just tempted to go hydroponic for various other reasons as well though.
>>
Hugh Dobblebock - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 11:19:43 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146088 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146083
Those aren't hawthorn flies, but regional naming conventions and all...
Have you tried throwing down a layer of sand over the surface?
>>
Ian Simmletit - Thu, 21 Jun 2018 12:07:03 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.146089 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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You can get yellow glue sheets, the flies are attracted to yellow get stuck and die
Or anything yellow coated with cooking oil
This wont help a peaked infestation but something for a new grow.
>>
Betsy Fammerford - Sat, 23 Jun 2018 08:38:38 EST ID:sDYSBE1+ No.146092 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146088
At this point the internet can go suck a dick with everyone giving those little flying faggots a different name.

The sand's a good suggestion, actually. I was just thinking of something a little bigger that allows more water to seep through like those little volcanic rocks or perlite.
>>146089
I'll check if my local gardening store has these, it'd be nice to have in my house regardless of growing.

Either way, I invested in a small but complete hydroponics set just to test it out. If it's not to my liking I can always use the perlite I got as a growing substrate to cover up a pot of soil. But at least I can put 'experience with hydroponics' on my separate cannabis-themed resumé.
>>
Jack Snodhood - Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:43:40 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.146093 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146092
Covering the soil wont help
The fly will seek out the bottom hole(s) and lay eggs there instead
>>
Charlotte Chonnersirk - Sun, 24 Jun 2018 03:12:38 EST ID:sDYSBE1+ No.146098 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146093
At this point the covering up wouldn't even be against the bugs any more, I've got about a dozen other methods to deal with them now thanks to this thread.

It's more that I already ordered the perlite, so I might as well use it regardless of what method I end up using.
>>
Charles Mettingmack - Sun, 24 Jun 2018 05:50:25 EST ID:uBY6Q3qf No.146100 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146092
you can put that on your resume anyway, pack it full of as many lies as you can, nobody ever checks
>>
Sophie Tillingbury - Sat, 28 Jul 2018 21:44:03 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146207 Ignore Report Quick Reply
anyone tried acephate?
>>
Lillian Crerringshit - Sun, 29 Jul 2018 10:45:13 EST ID:F4JxyDbQ No.146209 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146207
Damn nigga what are you trying to kill?
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/acephagen.html
>>
Charlotte Pezzleworth - Sun, 29 Jul 2018 20:20:45 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146210 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146209
is this still the russet mite thread?
>>
Polly Cidgebanks - Sun, 29 Jul 2018 21:09:59 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146212 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146210
Tetrasan is safer.
>>
Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:39:04 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146216 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146212
Its got a 65% better LD50 number, but a longer half-life. The stuff I read about it didn't say a thing about russets, it was all about spider mites, which I already have under control. Have you tried it for russets? If so do you have any idea if chitin growth inhibitors fuck with soil microbes? I bet it would work like a charm on PM, but thats already easy to control with lemon juice and alcohol, which is my go-to spray if I don't know what else to do. Works on all sorts of stuff & completely edible, but it can give your leaves a curl for a day or two if its too strong.
Thanks for tipping me off on the Tetrasan, I didn't see that at the hydro shop when I went looking for russet killers. They didn't have anything at all specifically for russets, all the miticides were for two spotted spider mites. I was hoping to find something with abamectin when I went there, but they didn't have that either.
Someone could make a pile of money on a russet mite product, hopefully it hits the shelves some day soon.
>>
Albert Shittingway - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 19:44:44 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146223 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146080
I tried growing in nothing but perlite with some gravel at the top and I got something munching on my roots big time. I want to try a deep water culture again. If you can control root zone temperature and oxygenation and light exposure you don't have many issues. I think maybe I could convert an old mini fridge to a root chamber. Maybe put some plexiglass in front of the opening so I can open the door of the fridge and look at the roots. Put an air stone in there and pump it full of bubbles and you get super fast growth and you can easily induce drought stress on the plant during flowering to simulate the dry season that causes resin production to increase to seal off stomata and avoid the plant from losing too much water by just letting the water level drop a little bit lower than usual before adding more water.
>>
Simon Gegglehall - Sat, 04 Aug 2018 00:06:42 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146226 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146223
Thanks for sharing the results of your experiment even if it didn't work out.
>>
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146230 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146226
I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high.

Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated.

My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 gallon bucket with a couple of air stones in the bottom and a couple of aquarium air pumps. Root oxygen levels are important which means you need to consider two things, water temperature and water aeration. The bubble stones will aerate the root chamber and eventually your roots will grow down through the damp perlite and hit the water itself at which point you get a real boom in growth. The roots form clusters that plunge down into the water chamber and if the plant is given adequate light it will respond with much faster growth than any other method I'm aware of.

One of the tips I've found that is most important but is easily overlooked is that the closer you can get your lights to your plants, the more intense the radiation is when it hits the plant and the more energy it transfers. The plant itself can tolerate high temperatures in the 90's or even above for some strains and will actually grow the fastest and most vigorously in high temperatures, right up to the point that the enzymes begin to degrade from high temps at which point you'll see a big drop off in growth. This means you don't want your lights to be so close that they burn your plants, but if you have adequate airflow and light cooling, you can benefit by increasing the efficiency of the watts you're paying the electricity company for by moving the lights closer to the plants. I think that many lower wattage, cooler running LEDs or Flourescent bulbs spread out that can cover a large area and be placed close to the canopy is a much better choice than a single high wattage, high temp light placed above the same area at a farther distance. The coverage is better and the intensity per watt is better with more lights at a lower wattage each spread out and put closer. Pay attention to the spectrum of the bulbs you're going to get though and look at cannabis' active use spectrum that will tell you what spectrum you should be targeting. The root chamber must be kept cooler than the plant itself though. Some sort of refrigeration is optimal, but insulation and shielding from the light above can be adequate.
>>
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146231 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146230
BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that.

Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer as a result. It has to be kept precise and never change but if you do this it's surprisingly easy and gives insane growth and yields.
>>
Charlotte Blarrywill - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:27:06 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146277 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146231
Thats a pretty great guide to growing indoor hydro you packed into those two posts. Good to know your plants turned out nice too, on the topic of pushing maximum light, I'd love to see someone take hyrdoponic growing outdoor and really push things under sunlight, possibly using reflectors of some sort to add to the intensity of the light. Very few people run anything near solar intensity lighting inside and those that do only run it at that intensity near the tops of the buds. Outdoor hydro could be the best way to combine maximum light intensity with max nutes.


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