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underwater rov by Shit Povingwill - Mon, 19 May 2014 18:07:05 EST ID:8ACDD/S2 No.6320 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1400537225638.jpg -(115925B / 113.21KB, 1106x826) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 115925
how to insert cables into hermetic underwater structure?
what materials would you recommend for the skeleton? its supposed to be able to go 150m deep, sea water.
how do you attach parts (engines, lights, etc) to such skeleton?

i have no idea where to look for answers to questions like that. they're probably pretty retarded.
2 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>>
Hedda Chummerhood - Tue, 20 May 2014 17:56:35 EST ID:8ACDD/S2 No.6323 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6322
told you i'm no good at it
actually i got bored once
>>
Reuben Hellercocke - Sun, 25 May 2014 12:32:38 EST ID:WCjzl674 No.6327 Ignore Report Quick Reply
how about you use gaskets, OP
>>
Nell Suffingfoot - Wed, 28 May 2014 15:07:54 EST ID:P1FecDgQ No.6330 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6327

Gaskets could fail at those pressures if OP isn't careful. I'd recommend finding someway to waterproof and seal the electronics themselves, and allow water to enter the structure.
>>
Captain Blackheart - Tue, 03 Jun 2014 05:25:49 EST ID:WCjzl674 No.6338 Ignore Report Quick Reply
for lights and cameras use gaskets & wrap in layers of clear plastic
and as for engine axles or hydraulics, look up submarine spec gaskets
good luck with your deep sea roving, Shit Povingwill !
>>
underwater rov solution water pressure - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 06:09:13 EST ID:EDnokgZa No.6344 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1401962953843.jpg -(169405B / 165.43KB, 625x684) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>>6320
OP i remember reading somewhere that electronics can run uninterupted in mineral oil so my theory is anything that must keep dry i suggest creating a normal underwater and oil-tight enclosure and placing the electronics in the box fill till overflowing with mineral oil and seal with rubber o rings and gasket protected nuts n bolts and test at depth i remember this from overhearing a few marine rov pecialsts on natgeoHD and apoparently use it to stop camera and light bulbs from imploding underwater they pump any airpocket full of the stuff not only that but the oil acts to not only insulate from water and possible shorts but can severely lower the water pressure exerted upon your electronics enclosure

btw pic unrelated but stfu ozfag here


Books by Barnaby Dibblebanks - Sat, 17 May 2014 01:58:41 EST ID:RFYmpDbI No.6315 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1400306321975.jpg -(31788B / 31.04KB, 500x333) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 31788
Any good books on mechanical or electrical engineering, or engineering in general?
>>
M - Sun, 18 May 2014 11:16:02 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6317 Ignore Report Quick Reply
What are you looking for? something like a handbook?
>>
Edwin Sidgeshaw - Wed, 21 May 2014 07:40:39 EST ID:RFYmpDbI No.6324 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1400672439763.png -(115001B / 112.31KB, 500x333) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>something like a handbook?
A book of any kind, really. Where do I start?
>>
Walter Niggergold - Wed, 21 May 2014 23:02:45 EST ID:CKZoWqYh No.6325 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6324
Depends on your level and what you want to learn.
If you are a complete noob then start with just a basic inroductory physics books, like ''University Physics by Young and Freedman" and read the relevant chapters.
Then on the other hand if you want to know about signals and a lot of other EE stuff and you already know complex number theory, linear algebra and the other math involved, you could read something like "Signals and Systems by Oppenheim and Wilsky".
All really depends on what you know, what you want to learn, how intricately do you want to learn it(general description or mathematically going into it) et.c..
>>
Reuben Hellercocke - Sun, 25 May 2014 12:30:46 EST ID:WCjzl674 No.6326 Ignore Report Quick Reply
if wanted to start engineering TODAY without prior knowledge of my field, maybe something beyond physics and basic maths
>>
Hedda Wazzlewene - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 05:15:56 EST ID:ar3QJwTD No.6343 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1401959756368.jpg -(70959B / 69.30KB, 300x377) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>if wanted to start engineering TODAY without prior knowledge of my field, maybe something beyond physics and basic maths.
What do I look at; Engineering monthly?
Do I want a dummies book?


Video Recording for Senior Design by Whitey Hemmledale - Wed, 04 Jun 2014 14:15:42 EST ID:8+Ra4Lcx No.6341 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1401905742584.gif -(465537B / 454.63KB, 500x500) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 465537
Hey Tesla,

My group is currently designing an engineering capstone project, a video camera that automatically detects and records meteors or other aerial phenomenon. So far, we have acquired a camera outputting BNC cabling, designed our framing, and are starting to design an environmental container to keep the camera safe.

The problem we are having regards actually getting the camera to show up on the computer, that is, we have the BNC cable going to a BNC to USB converter, plugged into our USB (3.0) port on our computer. However, we are unable to get the camera to display with our capture software (UFOCapture).

We surmise that we may be missing a physical DVR box between the camera and computer to record the footage. Thus, I have come to you for help.

What is, in your opinion, the best way to get a BNC wired camera to display a live feed onto a computer. We also prefer to use a non wireless solution, as well, due mostly to out Mechanical concentrations in studies. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as video is generally our weakpoint in this project.

Thanks fellow Enginerds

pic related, an example of a best case scenario capture of a meteor.
>>
Betsy Bligglechere - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 02:07:20 EST ID:2POYse6P No.6342 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>unable to get the camera to display
why not?


shocking by Phoebe Neckleham - Tue, 04 Mar 2014 20:50:40 EST ID:UD9Q5Q+J No.6187 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1393984240251.jpg -(19979B / 19.51KB, 348x310) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 19979
What's the highest voltage you've been shocked with, /tesla/?

ESD doesn't count
13 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>>
Faggy Dittingfield - Mon, 28 Apr 2014 17:02:36 EST ID:YMcsWEks No.6286 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6262

I tried pic related once. I got shocked, but the power cut out immediately afterward. I don't recommend it.
>>
Henry Dingerridge - Thu, 01 May 2014 21:13:28 EST ID:FMSlzPfk No.6289 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6286
Lucky you got RCDs son. Short to earth and within 300ms that shock is over
>>
Phoebe Blytheforth - Fri, 02 May 2014 04:05:01 EST ID:0hmA6MET No.6290 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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I've touched a hot wire twice, both times had some insulation though, so I cannot be sure how much voltage I've been exposed to.

I have an abnormal blood type though, ad now I shock people when I touch them, but it never shocks me, and sometimes I hold a charge like a resistor, it is quite strange.....
>>
Cornelius Sidgepuck - Fri, 02 May 2014 23:22:50 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6292 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6290
I think you mean a capacitor, but I know what you mean. It's easy to see how people can build up different amounts of static charge, though. People have different skin types and some are more oily or sweaty than others.

Consider how dialectric insulators and capacitors work. The larger a capacitor is, the more energy it takes to charge up to a high voltage. Think about filling up a kiddie pool, vs. an olympic sized swimming pool. Conductive materials like metal don't build up high voltage static charge very fast because the charge gets quickly distributed over a larger area. Many insulative materials like plastic and styrofoam build up higher voltages because insulators have a very low capacitance and high resistance, so the charge can't dissipate through the material as easily. Sweaty, salty skin is very conductive compared to dry skin, so the dry person would build up higher static charges.
>>
Augustus Sinningdale - Mon, 02 Jun 2014 13:31:42 EST ID:x6XNTpIN No.6336 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6292
what he said was a copypasta


Geoengineering/Chemtrails by Richard T.Ickla - Sun, 01 Jun 2014 00:19:44 EST ID:VzcGbFxW No.6333 Locked Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1401596384438.jpg -(65101B / 63.58KB, 426x640) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 65101
Dear /tesla/

I'm a normal /b/ and /weed/ visitor but I come to you in hopes to try to understand a real concern of mine that if is honestly being covered up I will have to say there is no hope for our country once the long term effects are noticed.

Have any of you heard of Geoengineering or chemtrials. I recently viewed a video of a presentation about the topic. It tells of how the government has been spraying aluminum nano-particles into the upper atmosphere. It is said it is to help reduce carbon emissions by essentially (real layman's terms here and this is my mental visualization of it) using the nano-particals as tin foil to encompass the upper atmosphere and have the sun "bake" off the greenhouse gases. They say it is causing droughts in places like CA and other odd things that could actually be as bad if not worse than global warming (although different from the side effects of global warming). The concept seems completely half baked and horrible to begin with. They continue on with how scientists are activity trying to get the word out and are shutdown. When u Google the topic the first site is a Wikipedia page of how it is a conspiracy. They say they attempt to change it just to "theory" but it continually gets changed back. The actual site for the speakers community is http://www.geoengineeringwatch.org

The video I saw kinda looses me when they go into radio waves controlling the weather through this but it does seem completely ridiculous that they believe something like this would help. There are patents taken out that are accessible by the public that show people have at least thought of this plan and want to see it enacted.
My question is has anyone else heard of this?
Are there more credible sources that this is happening?
And can we at least sue for introducing aluminum nano-particles in the air?
(PS. Nano-particles refers to the size of the particles, not that they are robotic in anyway..... I hope..)

Pic unrelated (if dogs could text)
Locked
Thread has been locked
Thread was locked by: Synthetic
Reason: /tinfoil/
>>
Clara Hackleman - Sun, 01 Jun 2014 13:57:45 EST ID:P1FecDgQ No.6334 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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OP, you might feel more at home in /tinfoil/. That's really all I can bring myself to say. Good luck and stay safe.


Using a cordless grinder inappropriately for fun and profit. by Shitting Monkinlidging - Fri, 16 May 2014 20:34:57 EST ID:0vSGJCQr No.6314 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1400286897564.jpg -(66969B / 65.40KB, 426x426) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 66969
Remember those little wind-up toys you had as a kid? The ones that had a sandpaper disc and flint and would shoot sparks?

I want to make one. But on a larger scale, and with the possibility of an immense amount of damage should it go wrong. Why? Because I want to.

The end project will be more like an RC controlled toy and a Type 1 from Screamers.

For the sparking bit, I figured it would be most effective to use a cordless cut off tool. The discs are cheap and durable, and I could simply have a servo drop a chunk of steel rod onto it like a record needle. Big sparks...tons of fun.

I can find tons of cordless cut off tools. But they come sans batteries. The battery packs run a minimum of $50 and I would also need a charger. I can get get a LI-PO battery pack from Hobby King that has 75% more amp hours for $20.00 and any charger would be far more versatile than some proprietary thing.

Here is my question - Do I NEED the OEM battery pack on these things? I can easily see the companies that make these tools throwing in a little ATTiny chip for $1.20 that would ensure you can't use non-mfg batteries. I would like to avoid that kind of shit, but can't find much data out there on this. Ideally I would buy the cutoff tool, break it down to just the parts I need and wire it into one of these -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=17904

Any info would be appreciated as I figure out this beast.
>>
Hamilton Wemmlechotch - Thu, 29 May 2014 16:36:05 EST ID:P1FecDgQ No.6331 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1401395765544.gif -(1464530B / 1.40MB, 400x259) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
While I don't exactly understand the function of your project. I do understand the desire to create your very own machine. It's honestly an amazing process and it can be a beautiful thing to breathe life and form into shapeless metal.

While I have no experience with the battery pack in question (as I prefer internal combustion as a means of propulsion/power) the reviews on it seem quite positive, and at that price I don't really see any harm in giving it an honest shot. If it doesn't work, then you have your answer. And it will give you the knowledge you need for any future projects that might require a battery pack.

Anyway, best of luck with your creation! remember to construct it with care, and I'm sure it will perform admirably by scaring the living bejesus out of children/household pets/pyrophobes.

Have you thought about possibly using a gigantic spiral torsion spring? like an over-sized version of the one in your pic? of course then it wouldn't be able to be Radio Controlled.
>>
Jack Seffingstone - Fri, 30 May 2014 21:00:33 EST ID:0vSGJCQr No.6332 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6331
>Have you thought about possibly using a gigantic spiral torsion spring? like an over-sized version of the one in your pic? of course then it wouldn't be able to be Radio Controlled.

I did. And I may do that at some point, but however I do this, there needs to be some control since just letting this thing go would be like pumping a wolverine full of meth and letting it loose. I may go with that on another model and then have a small battery pack that allows for control. Gotta be careful though.


Toaster by Sophie Wonderforth - Sat, 17 May 2014 21:37:20 EST ID:R8ES437o No.6316 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1400377040290.gif -(1881632B / 1.79MB, 231x200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 1881632
I need to fix my toaster, how much would it cost to hire an engineer to come and fix it for me, is it difficult and do engineers like tea with milk or not?
>>
Polly Ganningstock - Sun, 18 May 2014 14:01:10 EST ID:0vSGJCQr No.6318 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6316
http://www.thetoasterproject.org/
>>
Reuben Hellercocke - Sun, 25 May 2014 12:34:44 EST ID:WCjzl674 No.6328 Ignore Report Quick Reply
forget about an engineer, you need a toaster technician.


Standards by Beatrice Wellermin - Wed, 14 May 2014 20:14:05 EST ID:CKZoWqYh No.6311 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1400112845660.jpg -(49023B / 47.87KB, 276x276) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 49023
Where to get standards? I'm not going to pay these ridiculous amounts for them.
>>
Wesley Blackshaw - Wed, 14 May 2014 20:38:06 EST ID:sgRmu6cC No.6312 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6311
http://libgen.org/scimag/index.php

maybe


Shelves by Angus Gupperfuck - Fri, 02 May 2014 10:15:43 EST ID:9XByXaAP No.6291 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1399040143242.jpg -(7964B / 7.78KB, 306x185) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 7964
Guys

I want to put up some shelves, shaped like in the pic. Where should I put the brackets for maximum support? I got 3 per shelf. The points of the red triangle is my guesstimate. Good?
>>
Doris Brubbleson - Mon, 12 May 2014 11:01:42 EST ID:lqGuA0m0 No.6307 Ignore Report Quick Reply
If that's a wooden shelf for someones bedroom then that's perfectly fine.

If you plan on standing on it though I would suggest a highly durable frame in a similar position of your red triangle.
Then again if it was industrial I would probably suggest just using the frame and fuck off the black area.


stored energy circuit by Eliza Beckleshaw - Thu, 08 May 2014 22:07:03 EST ID:2POYse6P No.6296 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1399601223055.jpg -(403748B / 394.29KB, 2592x1952) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 403748
goal: use 5 vdc @ 500 mA from a usb port to charge a largeish capacitor, and when needed deliver as many amps as possible at 1.25 vdc. when the cap drains it would output full usb port current at 1.25vdc (~2 amps?).

i'm thinking about this two ways:

  1. usb 5vdc -> cap -> voltage regulator(s) 1.25vdc -> out
  2. usb 5vdc -> voltage regulator 1.25vdc -> cap -> out

are these functionally equivalent or is there a preferable arrangement (or something else entirely)? yes this is intended as a usb powered AA battery replacement.
>>
Matilda Blatherhall - Fri, 09 May 2014 00:52:21 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6297 Ignore Report Quick Reply
The regulator should have a cap on both the input and output anyway (read the datasheet). But the output cap is what supplies "as many amps as possible" to the load, for a very short time at least, and it protects the regulator by filtering the current spikes out. Ideally it would be

5vdc -> cap -> 1.5V regulator -> current limiter (if not built into the regulator) -> cap -> out
>>
Thomas Funningfield - Fri, 09 May 2014 20:54:36 EST ID:2POYse6P No.6300 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6297
thanks for the reply.

charging the cap with 5v will require a cap rated for 7.5v or better, which are more expensive than a 2.7v rated cap (charged by pre-regulated 1.2v).

also i would need to somehow equally split the 5v cap voltage to (three?) voltage regulators, as each is only capable of 1.5 amps.

current limiting can be done with another lm317 but i havent looked into it/built it yet.
>>
Sidney Humblewater - Sat, 10 May 2014 12:13:23 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6304 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>6300
You lost me here. You just need a ceramic 0.1uF at the input. These types of caps are cheap regardless of the voltage rating. Here's a 50V one that costs 16 cents:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/SR215C104KAA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt3KoXD5rJ2NzY%2fNzACikyQUu7ggGOJe%2fA%3d

And if 1.5 Amps isn't enough, why not find a single regulator that can output more? But you're not going to get more current than that from the USB port anyway.


Material Science Engineering by John Dirringweck - Fri, 18 Apr 2014 18:51:59 EST ID:bPdtWw+Z No.6261 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1397861519691.jpg -(41251B / 40.28KB, 607x277) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 41251
Hello /tesla/,
So I just sent my SIR to UC Irvine. I'm going to be an anteater in the fall! I got $40,000 per year in aid and grants so I'll have minimal debt. I got accepted under polisci because my freshman grades kind of screwed me over. But I got an email yesterday and they told me I could appeal my decision to the school of engineering, which I did. I just had to inform them of my last semester grades and any science-related experiment/project I've done. Last semester I took AVID senior seminar, AP Microeconomics, AP Calc A/B, AP Physics, and AP English lit and Comp. Grades were A, B, A, B, A respectively
The email also said that they have space in Material Science Engineering and maybe in Aerospace engineering (my preferred choice), but I didn't want to risk not getting in so I chose MSE.
The email also said that they have space in Material Science Engineering and maybe in Aerospace engineering (my preferred choice), but I didn't want to risk not getting in so I chose MSE.
Was this a good choice? Any of you doing MSE? What's it like?
>>
Eliza Nangerway - Thu, 24 Apr 2014 16:04:20 EST ID:9+I+k5VX No.6281 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1398369860266.jpg -(165405B / 161.53KB, 1024x768) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>>6261
Congratulations on getting accepted into the engineering programs,
I'm happy to hear that you are doing so well in your classes.


Most fields of engineering overlap in the early stages, so you will have to decide whether MSE is for you or if AE is more your forte. Material sciences is working with things like ceramics, plastics, etc. while aerospace would be more inclined to things like aerodynamics, statics and forces.

in the set of engineering, the skill sets these sub fields require are that you must learn physics, Integral and differential calculus , statics, kinematics, hydraulics, heat, strength, and how to machine parts.
how you use these skills will be dependent on your actual major, but more or less its inter-connected in the non-specialized classes.

as for whether its a good choice, that's up to you if you like the feel of the work keep going and don't give up. ALSO i would suggest getting a girlfriend or boyfriend before you lose contact with the human race; get some friends from class and hang out and study as a group.
these tests are hard, and the concepts can be complex.

you are lucky to have FA im working and studying full time.
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Priscilla Smallford - Sun, 27 Apr 2014 05:08:54 EST ID:bPdtWw+Z No.6285 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>6281
I got in! Thanks for the advice!
>>
Basil Clammleworth - Thu, 01 May 2014 12:16:58 EST ID:wL5glGPd No.6288 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1398961018149.png -(268529B / 262.24KB, 1158x1191) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>>6285
Welcome to the UC system. Enjoy your stay, and good luck with Engineering.


HALP by George Babbleville - Wed, 30 Apr 2014 06:23:06 EST ID:vSTp3Yjx No.6287 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1398853386566.jpg -(40432B / 39.48KB, 500x384) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 40432
anybody know of any good gcode simulators?

thanks /tesla/


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