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Outward opening door lock by Samuel Gozzledeg - Fri, 04 Jul 2014 03:48:01 EST ID:wwXtgtI1 No.6387 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So I just moved into a new apartment and the backdoor is a outward opening door facing the street, it has 3 dead bolts but it is obvious someone has crow barred it open before not sure if it was police/fire dept or someone broke in, anyway I want to get some sturdy locks on the thing but I am having trouble finding any for outward opening doors

I tried something like this http://www.amazon.com/Mintcraft-Ss-b04-db-Barrel-Stainless-Steel/dp/B001GLZQFG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404456927&sr=8-2&keywords=bolt+lock

but it won't fit on the door properly since the interior has a 4-5 inch molding I could drill into it but it would still be almost at the edge if connected to the door which would still be pretty easy to prey open since there would be less then a quarter inch of wood holding onto the bolt.

I was thinking the old fashioned chain door lock but with an outward opening door it seems like that would be easy to just cut.

tl;dr i need a outward opening door lock
Samuel Grandhall - Fri, 18 Jul 2014 18:51:40 EST ID:ctw8nGDk No.6404 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Picture of the situation?
Ernest Hazzleford - Tue, 06 Jan 2015 22:50:46 EST ID:VYKZkXpH No.6608 Ignore Report Quick Reply

Get a doorjammer. Way better than a deadbolt.
Rebecca Hollerville - Fri, 09 Jan 2015 00:23:35 EST ID:a5xmRWEe No.6609 Ignore Report Quick Reply
put the hinges on the other side

i see no problems with this by Basil Crummleman - Fri, 05 Dec 2014 09:57:11 EST ID:xjkvZpNQ No.6585 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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hey guys i got an idea. i plan on rigging up my roll around tool cart at work with car batteries to power my corded tools and such without having to have an outlet nearby. im pretty sure all i need is a power inverter to turn the dc batteries into ac power and a battery charger to charge my batteries when not in use (i.e. when im not there i leave my tool cart at work obviously) does anyone see any issues with this?
Angus Greenman - Mon, 08 Dec 2014 18:33:27 EST ID:w4ndsl7g No.6586 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Exposed battery contacts would likely violate OSHA standards
Lillian Pickworth - Mon, 08 Dec 2014 19:51:13 EST ID:5z+lhQRM No.6587 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Use deep cycle marine batteries and a powerful enough inverter.
Whitey Messlechut - Mon, 08 Dec 2014 21:41:28 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6588 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Make sure it's rated for heavy inductive loads. Power tools pull a lot of current and it's pretty much all inductive load, which would fry a lot of the cheaper stuff that's out there. It must be pure sine wave, none of this MSW crap. Modified sine wave is noisy as fuck and will damage your motors, battery chargers, and lots of other things.
Hannah Boshville - Sat, 27 Dec 2014 18:37:05 EST ID:a5xmRWEe No.6600 Ignore Report Quick Reply
your tools might not like an inverter
can't you switch to battery or air powered?

mcguyver thread by Henry Trotham - Tue, 09 Sep 2014 14:44:42 EST ID:uTTzr48/ No.6476 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I have the following tell me what you would build
duck tape
empty water bottles
empty beer cans
empty wine bottles
3 broken office chairs
6 feet of PVC pipe
a broken printer
1 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Ebenezer Blingerfoot - Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:05:22 EST ID:PlsgwkW/ No.6495 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I would build a trash can to hold all the empty bottles and broken shit
Nell Semblebury - Sun, 21 Sep 2014 21:20:02 EST ID:DTtvLj5M No.6496 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Tape together the water bottles, forming a raft. DO the same with the wine bottles and and vodka bottle (after drinking it). Polish the end of the beercan with vodka and socks, and use that as a lens to start a fire with the paper and cardboard. Smash apart the printer, to get plastic panels. Use the panels and heat from fire to seal the ends of the PVC pipe. Reinforce panels with duck tape. Use two of the chair to construct oars (use seat/back and support rods). Use last office chair as captain's seat. Use books as ballast. use ripped up underwear and socks for any more lashings you don't trust the duck tape to handle.

Row off into the sunset.
Isabella Fiblingbanks - Thu, 06 Nov 2014 20:00:01 EST ID:DKM7qcdl No.6567 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Alice Gellysot - Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:01:46 EST ID:ynSy5DbE No.6569 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Ha. Turn the PVC into a manual watering hydro system using the waterbottles as ghetto net pots. Use the office chair wheels to add wheels to it so its movable for whatever reason. Take the beer cans and return them for the deposit. Put the paper/cardboard/books into a firepit. Start the fire THEN drink the vodka wearing nothing but socks and underwear and dance around said fire. Reenact the scene from office space by smashing the printer to some Ghetto boys. Buy a box of wine and fill up the empty wine bottles with the box and feel more fancy when you drink. Save the duck tape because its the most useful thing you listed.
Komarov - Wed, 10 Dec 2014 02:22:10 EST ID:Bi0SolbP No.6590 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I fucking lol'd

steel cables don't like to be folded by Hedda Nickleville - Sat, 29 Nov 2014 11:43:22 EST ID:E7UJnAxL No.6580 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I'm making 8 bucket lights, similar to the pic. The buckets will be hanging from 2mm uncoated steel cable. My problem is with connecting the cable to the bucket. Currently, I'm drilling holes into the bucket, putting the cable through, then I fold the ends over using a combination of a pipe wrench, hammer and fingers, and put a lump of solder on it. It works but my fingers are bleeding after just 2 buckets. I could've crimped ferrules onto the ends but that shit's expensive. This is where you guys come in. Got any good ideas?
Nicholas Dappershaw - Sat, 29 Nov 2014 12:16:43 EST ID:dlCxw3eb No.6581 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Cable shoes are not expensive
Charles Tootson - Sat, 29 Nov 2014 16:40:41 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6582 Ignore Report Quick Reply
These terminal strips are pretty cheap. Buy 1 or 2 and cut them into individual pieces. Thread the steel wire in and tighten the screw. Done.
Charles Tootson - Sat, 29 Nov 2014 16:41:12 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6583 Ignore Report Quick Reply
whoops, meant to reply to op
Matilda Naffingsadging - Mon, 29 Dec 2014 23:10:40 EST ID:2/KQDBgb No.6603 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Glue a bead onto the cable.

"hoverboard" for 10 000 $ by Tit Picking - Fri, 28 Nov 2014 05:10:46 EST ID:fyG0onAI No.6579 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I think you all have seen this one video with the hoverboard.
The one with Tony Hawk and blue ligths.

AM I the only one who thinks these guys are pretty delusional?
And I am not even talking about their stupid PR-babbling
(""great way of capturing peoples interests"
"this can make a serious difference in solving difference problems"


but the specifications of this thing!

  • it can only drive on copper and aluminium-laced areas.
  • it weights 40 pounds
  • lasts only for 1,3 minutes (!)
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Fanny Niggerhood - Tue, 02 Dec 2014 19:04:35 EST ID:ynSy5DbE No.6584 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Volcano surfing.
That is all

Help me out bros by Cornelius Pockson - Mon, 24 Nov 2014 16:47:55 EST ID:PAbwN0uU No.6576 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Heya, dunno if im in the right board, but i thought you guys might know whats going on.
So I got a 120w Led panel with red led dominance, and i added a 40w CFL to boost up the grow. And the CFL's light and the bulb turned green when I turned it on. Seems weird since the light produced by the led is a bright pinkish color.
I was just wondering if leds overpower the spectrum somehow and the CFL is useless.. So do I just take the CFL outta there or leave it?
Molly Nickleville - Tue, 25 Nov 2014 09:48:17 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6577 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I`m not an expert on that shit but I think the pink colour of the leds overpower the CFL, making it look green. I`m quite sure that when you switch the leds off the CFL will look white again. I don`t think a 40W CFL will add much to 120W led but its better than without it I guess.
Nicholas Chundercocke - Wed, 26 Nov 2014 16:20:46 EST ID:OYFPhNGh No.6578 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Answer's easy: optical illusion, human eye isn't really good at determining "true" color of light, think camera automatic white balance, our brain is just so good we normally don't realize. In practice we can tell when we see both light sources at the same time (assuming no mixing)

Career choice idea by Alice Gellysot - Fri, 14 Nov 2014 12:47:59 EST ID:ynSy5DbE No.6568 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So I'm working on getting my certification from a community college for HVAC/R. Then afterwards getting a certification in electrical engineering from the same CC. My plan is to use my contacts in the growing medical marijuana industry to get contrats for jobs setting up energy efficient/safely designed grow rooms.

My questions are is a 1 year certification in both going to be enough to have the credentials needed? Specifically if it becomes legal in my state, will I need more on paper education to be hired by the big commercial operations or will they want to see more on paper?

Do yall think I should just focus on getting my associates in HVAC or get two one year certifications?

I plan on starting my own HVAC business specializing in legal op setups.
Wesley Cliddlemene - Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:28:09 EST ID:VBJecc+I No.6570 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Sounds like some bogus cert
Certified electrician is 3 years education + about 1 year apprentice in my part
the world.
Clara Wiggleforth - Wed, 19 Nov 2014 21:36:00 EST ID:7wKbt66O No.6575 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I'd go full HVAC for now you could do EET later if you want/need to. One year is probably not enough for HVAC. You probably already know this, but apprenticeship is really important so I hope you have someone in mind who will take you under t

Desulfator operations by Hannah Chuddlefit - Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:02:24 EST ID:7AgRxdIR No.6572 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I got a battery restorer and it seems to be working but the manual dont say if
i should cycle the battery with the desulfator or keep it at constant charging with the desulfator connected.
Edward Drummleman - Tue, 18 Nov 2014 11:51:56 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6573 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Did you feel like sharing this with us or is it a question?
Nell Songershaw - Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:31:54 EST ID:CTVNwfzg No.6574 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>if i should cycle the battery with the desulfator or keep it at constant charging

Electrical by Eliza Trotfield - Fri, 24 Oct 2014 01:59:12 EST ID:V3vXWr1R No.6539 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I want to switch from electrical engineering to computer sci in my 5th year

; still two semesters till I graduate, and falling grades.

No more "hang in there" and just finish; I still have 2 semesters left, and for me that's two semesters too long. Literally just working on a bunch of outdated software, and learning intangible circuit equations. I have been an intern already at a startup that makes aerial filming drones and I didn't like the electrical bit at all. I was more interested in just building them up than anything that had to do with electrician engineering.


DO PEOPLE ENJOy comp sci at school and work?
Polly Breffingstotch - Sat, 25 Oct 2014 17:50:41 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6544 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>computer scientists
No. Computer Science is like a Math degree, people get it for fun, but it is SHIT SHIT SHIT for work. Computer scientists usually end up getting certifications or find some training in some database or network language, and go work on managing some network for an organization.

There's probably something else like Computer Engineering or something you could get into which would still overlap at least somewhat with the electronics.

College work also tends to be esoteric compared to what you end up doing in the real world. They mostly use degrees so they can claim some sense of responsibility. An Electrical Engineer could go into wiring up buildings (related to civil but they focus far more on structure itself), designing systems for cars or other vehicles, managing things on the component level, and not the intrahardware or programming designs.

Something more microcomputer+electronics would ABSOLUTELY be more fruitful, as "the internet of things" meme will catch on, and you'll get to be right in the middle of the boom that will come from digitizing everything.
Hannah Nunnershit - Thu, 06 Nov 2014 13:53:02 EST ID:pW0l2lUu No.6566 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Switch to something like "physical technology". You learn how to design, and put together all these ideas in your head with a focus on making a complete product.
  • you already know a good part physics so its gonna be "easy"
  • one of the most future proof and versatile well paid degrees you can get

LED strip by Molly Secklemork - Fri, 31 Oct 2014 07:52:20 EST ID:IutPcDIx No.6556 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I got hold of a led strip
The question is do you need a constant current driver to power it ?
There is no talk about that anywhere so im guessing the resistors on the strip is enough ?
Pic related im planning to glue it on the backside of my monitor
Phyllis Gannerridge - Mon, 03 Nov 2014 23:41:43 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6558 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Impossible to say without knowing the specs or anything about it. Most LEDs can be driven with a PWM. That's better for dimming anyway,
Hannah Grimfield - Wed, 05 Nov 2014 00:23:01 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6562 Ignore Report Quick Reply
LED strips are pretty damn consistent 12V driven. Unfortunately the resistors drop the efficiency like crazy. There is likely per LED, and literally mine are 3 separate LEDs, so there isn't even a 3Vresistor+3Vserial LED(75% efficient), it is (9R+3LED)x3, 25% efficiency.

There might be a way around it, like maybe some brands have all-on or all-off that are more efficient. If you want better efficiency, you can look into LED squares+heatsinks. Those fuckers reach the same brightness/panel as 60-75W incandescent bulbs. Most LED bulbs are half that.
Hannah Grimfield - Wed, 05 Nov 2014 00:28:22 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6563 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Also, be careful the power draw, a 1-2A may not cut it. If you're going crazy with LEDs, you could get a 24V 4A universal laptop power supply for < $20, which is pretty damn adjustable (12-24) and cheap. Now you can get a lot of good efficiency 12-24V power supplies, but they used to be outrageously expensive.
Albert Hittinglan - Thu, 06 Nov 2014 10:47:48 EST ID:/iq4sJW2 No.6564 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Installation done
Im going to use the computers power supply to feed it
Albert Hittinglan - Thu, 06 Nov 2014 11:32:19 EST ID:/iq4sJW2 No.6565 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Test run with a tired 9 volt battery

pretty cool practical mod you can make for a 1$

Large Solar Panel Set Up by Beatrice Trotbanks - Tue, 05 Aug 2014 01:07:08 EST ID:ZY7Dvhk/ No.6427 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Ok , I need some serious help. I have a very large flat roof and I have the legal right to use Solar Panels. I would like to set up enough panels to run my business and my homes electical needs. I have about 15 thousand dollars to go into this. I would like be pretty much completely off the grid. I use about 3-4kw constantly and it adds up very fast through the electic company.I just got a 500$ bill . Could someone please explain to me how to do this properly. I basically need to be able to run 4kw -6kw constantly through the day min and i have 15000sq of space to put panels on money isnt really a problem for this but i dont want to be ripped off by a company so I rather do it by myself . Mainly to run lights, computers and Air conditioning and Heating devices. I want to be self sufficient and I want my dream of running a server hosting company to thrive but power seems to be the biggest problem right now. Pic related seems like a very easy way of setting up solar panels on the type of roof i have.
6 posts and 1 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Sidney Pundlegold - Fri, 19 Sep 2014 04:31:47 EST ID:XpPyXVeY No.6494 Ignore Report Quick Reply
"Aquion Energy" use their batterys, they have all u ever wanted for stationary use.
Nigel Drashcocke - Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:01:23 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6517 Ignore Report Quick Reply
You can look into investing in Vanadium batteries.
Nathaniel Tootville - Mon, 13 Oct 2014 23:40:25 EST ID:C5dsHNVe No.6518 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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And thats why i added so much extra not to run them flat

There _was_ something called iron sulphate batteries they never wear out(!)
I dont think you can find them anymore except for ridiculous prices
They are ideal for heavy cycling power banks
Emma Fodgedidging - Thu, 23 Oct 2014 03:45:58 EST ID:9Jhexzgj No.6537 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Seriously, check out Aquion. There batterys cost only a litte more then lead/acid "car batterys", but have at least double the livetime + deep cycle capacity, non toxic and landfill safe but recycleable, and you get more energy back out of them (higher efficency). Also when standing at partial charge they dont crap out like lead/acid do, lower self discharge while maintaining low internal resistance (charge discharge at 5C!). Bonus is they require no balancing like lipo. And no im not affiliated, im a german electrician who has installed solar panels and stuff, i have seen commercial lead/acid energy storage and you would not believe the hassle you have (hydrogen build up, acid) with those, special ventilated and monitored rooms and stuff. I heard about aquion when they started out, and im pleased to see they have built a production line for a completely new product based on scientific progress in a few years. Even if aquion could hold only half of what they claim, these still would be real game changers for stationary energy storage. Not to forget this technology was invented and is produced in the US of A!
James Cendleway - Tue, 04 Nov 2014 00:39:19 EST ID:5agsxU18 No.6559 Ignore Report Quick Reply
A forklift battery might be something to check out.

Basic Craftsmanship shit by Edward Shakeway - Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:49:51 EST ID:lwufqWOo No.6552 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I am attempting to design and build a garbage bin grow chamber. What I have worked out, and this is very preliminary, is that I will use one LED light, a cone of aluminum foil from the light that directly focuses light on the growbed at the bottom. I'm drilling one hole, in which I will put a small fan. That is concern number one: how strong of a fan would I need to force the stanky ass kush air from the garbage can to my window, approximately a meter and a half away? Should I maybe install a larger fan on the top?

Concern number two is the hydroponic grow bed. Now I'm rreeaally new to this, truly out of my element, but I think a small waterbed with a pump that just swirls the water around, alongside careful nutrient and ph monitoring should be enough, right? I'd of course have the roots and clay medium in a cup with ample drainage so it can absorb nutrients.

Will post designs later today, when they are complete.

AS FOR WHY THIS ISN'T IN /CROPS/, because it has more to do with general knowledge of craftsmanship than a question directly related to growing.

Pic related, but I believe I can do better than that, with your help.

The end goal is to design the perfect garbage can grow op so that I can distribute it on the internet as an infographic.
Edward Shakeway - Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:55:59 EST ID:lwufqWOo No.6553 Ignore Report Quick Reply
My room is about 21 degres, but since the airflow from the growbox is goig directly outside to the -20 Canadian weather, I think I'll need to some some heating in there just from leakage. Space heaters are bullshit, but maybe I could fit a small one into the garbage can?

The garbage can is also one of those giant, 360 liter motherfuckers.

So please, critique away!
Edward Shakeway - Thu, 30 Oct 2014 13:00:26 EST ID:lwufqWOo No.6554 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Does anyone know enough about carbon filters to help me perhaps substitute my stupid tube-to-window idea? If I could have a filter that eliminates odour I'd be more than happy.

nb sorry for spam

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