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A hole in the wall by HALP !8NBuQ4l6uQ - Tue, 21 Oct 2014 06:57:44 EST ID:c9D+RWua No.6533 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Ok guys help me out?
How should I close this?
HALP !8NBuQ4l6uQ - Tue, 21 Oct 2014 06:59:45 EST ID:c9D+RWua No.6534 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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This is the ceiling of my room almost directly under the hole
it cant be a coincedence?
should i close the hole
and how?
pls hels
Edward Broblingsan - Tue, 21 Oct 2014 15:19:36 EST ID:WgVvwjw+ No.6535 Ignore Report Quick Reply
That rotten shit in the top of the picture is probably letting water in too

You need to wack away everything that is lose and put some new paint and plaster on.
Emma Fodgedidging - Thu, 23 Oct 2014 03:20:16 EST ID:9Jhexzgj No.6536 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Get a small (~1kg) bag of "Regulated set cement" aka "fast set cement". Unlike gypsum or plaster when hard its waterproof. Then get some old Newspaper, crumple it and stuff it in the hole, just enough so it will stop the runny cement from going where gravity wants it. Moisten the edge of the hole for the cement to stick better. Now mix the cement in a small container with a bit of water to get a puddy. Yes it will feel like a lot of cement to a small amount of water. Then quickly dump it in there, have a spatula handy to keep it at bay while runny, it should quickly (5min) start to harden. Instead of a spatula a flat piece of hard plastic could be used, so the only thing you need to buy is cement.

Former military maint. here by Lillian Demmlenud - Wed, 10 Sep 2014 14:00:59 EST ID:mJgHVzRU No.6478 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I did electronics in the military. Mainly RF related stuff but we had to learn the fundamentals of electronics and shit for component level maintenance on radios and stuff. I still have all the study materials actually.

>basically I'm not incompetent with electronics.
>I fucking hate the power company. Seriously. I run a window unit maybe twice a week and my bill is over $100/month.
>I have a few hundred bucks to spend on this.

Can I:
>Buy 1Kv worth of solar cells off eBay. $350-400. Prices have fallen a lot. Maybe $100 in supplies to frame/protect the fragile cells properly.
>A big ass UPS. Maybe a 750W since they're cheaper. A 2000W is $1,000USD. There are some smaller ones for $150. All in all it's cheaper to do a UPS as opposed to inverter + batteries.
>Also I can get more batteries and add in series to the UPS. I've done it before on a smaller one.

I've already rigged up an idea to move the panels if need be at different times of the day on my roof. Pivot it on the apex of my roof. also I have fucked with Arduino and servos and I know I could easily rig/program something up with a timer or photosensor.

Is this reasonable to power a Window A/C unit or something? I know I can't power my house or anything, but What could I reasonably expect to do with such a setup and is it reasonable?
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Hugh Fushnod - Fri, 12 Sep 2014 08:05:12 EST ID:xrky+ufW No.6482 Ignore Report Quick Reply
You could shine mirrors on the cells for more power.
Samuel Femblemick - Sun, 14 Sep 2014 10:25:03 EST ID:mJgHVzRU No.6485 Ignore Report Quick Reply
1410704703801.jpg -(19301B / 18.85KB, 500x375) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
OP here

Right now I have 4 of these wired in series and connected to a shitty old single battery, dual plug UPS. Just testing the waters. It runs a full sized fan on medium setting for a few hours without dying. I don't want to leave it overnight because I don't know whether these batteries die permanently if drained 100% or if my ghetto contraption will burn my house down.

Also there is noticeable noise/hum coming from the unity so I think the quality of AC power isn't great. Probably needs a power conditioner. I won't dare plug a computer or anything needing a stable and consistent 60hz in yet.


Shit I didn't think of this. I was trying to avoid a power inverter by going the UPS route but this is probably right. I'm pretty sure if I got ahold of a decent schematic I could etch a pcb up but I don't have test equipment other than my Fluke Digital Multimeter if it was required.


Instead of all that fancy stuff I could go analog too. Put the panel on a hinge on the apex of my root. One rope to pull it to the east-facing side for sunrise, one to pull it to the west facing.
I literally have 3000ft of "550 cord" so the possibilities are endless for that. I'll check those batteries out. I just know I need the kind where if I run it 100% dead it won't kill the battery altogether.
Hugh Gabberkane - Sat, 27 Sep 2014 18:43:22 EST ID:mVz7+fwB No.6501 Ignore Report Quick Reply
The UPS is made for 1 battery 12v ?
you runt x5 = ~60volt

I doubt it will survive for long with that arrangement

If you connect the batteries in parallel you get juice from all the batteries AND the 12 volt in the UPS was built for.
Augustus Hindlelutch - Tue, 07 Oct 2014 09:35:53 EST ID:gC5PoI5b No.6510 Ignore Report Quick Reply
just a quick thought.

you could use water potential to save your energy. especially since you could easily scale your capacity. also no stupid amounts of clusterfuck battery work. just water.

of course you would loose a lot of energy due to friction and efficiency of your pump/generastor set up.

but it would reduce the probability to kill yourself. which seems pretty high to me after reading this thread.
Nigel Drashcocke - Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:58:46 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6516 Ignore Report Quick Reply
To charge batteries you should look into a pulsed constant-current power supply. The pulse frequency can be set to a voltage level, so that way with low incoming volts you charge slowly, but at higher ones you charge faster. To control all of this requires a fair amount of calculations and integrated circuits to be efficient, but it's infinitely better than trying to do it a simpler way.

wat do by Edward Ginnerlet - Mon, 22 Sep 2014 06:26:14 EST ID:loYdgfM0 No.6497 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Next year I specialize my engineering major, I'm thinking chemeng but also environmental engineering as the whole environmental industry is growing and will continue to grow.
what do u guys reckon?
Phoebe Hozzledock - Mon, 06 Oct 2014 21:04:09 EST ID:LH0JElb5 No.6508 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I'd say something viable in the market. Chemeng I've heard is flooded with people and it's one of those deals where you have to keep getting degrees to beat out the competition.

I'd go with environmental engineering, a buddy of mine graduated with that and is doing well for himself, has worked for the city and is now at a power plant station doing idunnowhat, but he's doing well for himself either way.
John Clannerferk - Mon, 13 Oct 2014 01:57:46 EST ID:oGFKhUDK No.6513 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Western world is declining
No one will give a shit about your compost engineering degree when they roast a rat over a burning car tire.

If you want to play it safe take field that will always be needed.
Nigel Drashcocke - Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:53:55 EST ID:CU2h2CkN No.6514 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I'm currently going for Industrial Engineering, but it's literally more of a management position. I may go for a Bachelors in Manufacturing Engineering instead, go for maybe a Electronic's Master, then go for a DoE in Physics.

The Industrial Engineering program I'm going for also has a variant so in +3 years I could go for IE+Management Bachelors, instead of just the +2 for IE.

I love working with machines but I'll probably do electronics and programming on the side.

International Internship by M - Wed, 10 Sep 2014 10:45:50 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6477 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Hello dear /Tesla/

I am a longtime lurker and sometimes poster on this board. I am in my second year of my Bachelor in mechanical engineering. At the start of my third year I will do a 5/6month internship, I want to do this anywhere but The Netherlands, where I live.
This brings a problem with it though. I have absolutely zero professional international connections. Please help me find companies or organisations where I might be able to do my internship.
I really don`t care what direction it is in as long as it`s mechanical engineering. I only speak English and Dutch so that might something to take into account.
picture fairly unrelated
Samuel Driblingstone - Sun, 14 Sep 2014 19:23:44 EST ID:zMqrLaGO No.6486 Ignore Report Quick Reply
"Hi professor, I see you worked for this US/UK/German/Swedish firm. I'd like to do my internship abroad. Could you write me a letter of recommendation to your former place of work."
M - Mon, 15 Sep 2014 01:55:06 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6488 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yes I tried that, didn`t turn up anything.

I might be on to something in India trough Leave Ur Mark though. I hope that turns out to be something nice
Whitey Sazzlefire - Wed, 17 Sep 2014 09:28:58 EST ID:moeap6T7 No.6492 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Ask family and friends. I worked one summer with a guy from Spain whose dad had asked our boss about work. I've gotten 4/5 summer jobs through family and friends.

homework help by marcus - Wed, 09 Apr 2014 23:02:14 EST ID:Zi2fG07Z No.6242 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Can anyone tell me how to find the radius of this circle is?

Sorry for the crappy artwork.
8 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
marcus - Wed, 27 Aug 2014 23:25:48 EST ID:Zi2fG07Z No.6460 Ignore Report Quick Reply
60 would make a hexagon the width of the block. I need the full width of the circle.
Sophie Blosslestune - Fri, 29 Aug 2014 00:58:34 EST ID:01krkNKo No.6463 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Alright since you've been so patient, the radius is roughly 93.06280143852685029519

You have to use a little trig, do some algebraic substitution, and you have to complete a square somewhere. If you don't know where to start, try to picture a second right triangle formed by a line from the center of the circle to the top right corner of the box, and use a variable (y) to represent the height from the center of the circle to the bottom horizontal line.
M - Fri, 29 Aug 2014 13:48:22 EST ID:06ISvFUq No.6465 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Autodesk Inventor 2014
If you don`t study something like mechanical engineering I`d not recomend buying it. Don`t know how hard it is to torrent it
Eric Olsen - Sun, 07 Sep 2014 13:11:15 EST ID:dc6TfhZQ No.6474 Ignore Report Quick Reply
the lawe of sines states that:
sin A/a = sin B/b = sin C/c
so, sin(30)/30 = sin(90)/x
just use algebra now to solve for x
Basil Farringnot - Tue, 16 Sep 2014 15:03:56 EST ID:LH0JElb5 No.6491 Ignore Report Quick Reply
draw it in autocad or something

Heating duct engineer by William Conderfoot - Thu, 25 Oct 2012 10:43:16 EST ID:LmAefPGY No.5034 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I came into this game for the action, the excitement. Go anywhere, travel light, get in, get out, wherever there's trouble, a man alone. Now they got the whole country sectioned off, you can't make a move without a form. Listen, this old system of yours could be on fire and I couldn't even turn on the kitchen tap without filling out a 27b/6... Bloody paperwork.
Isabella Snodwater - Mon, 15 Sep 2014 01:58:32 EST ID:0l9kqM5+ No.6489 Ignore Report Quick Reply


Electric Gun by Charles Millerwetch - Tue, 03 Jun 2014 16:08:16 EST ID:5gD9lQi4 No.6340 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Any information about the piezoelectric ignition threshold for firing a .22 rimfire round?
What kind of math would you have to do to find the electricity needed for this sort of thing?

Super compact rimfire potentially incoming.
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Idunno - Thu, 12 Jun 2014 11:54:50 EST ID:5gD9lQi4 No.6360 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Right. I would just use .22 LR rimfire rounds (Preferably blanks) because they're the smallest, cheapest, most available ammo out there. I know the Metal Storm military system uses electric charge to deliver the ignition to the round at the front of the barrel, because it can't hand the charge off to anything else. (It's at the end of the line). But if a piezoelectric igniter for a barbecue lighter delivers enough amperage, that works too. I'm just trying to calculate the threshold for primer ignition and see if I can match that value with a reasonable number of, say, AA batteries in series/parallel.
Gazpacho - Tue, 02 Sep 2014 03:33:14 EST ID:9Fgjepcp No.6467 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Right now I am trying to figure why he'd need that mechanism O_O
Barnaby Clashhall - Thu, 04 Sep 2014 17:19:17 EST ID:2s0Y1xJY No.6472 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Hey my thread is alive again!

I wanted to put a gun into a super small space, like an altoid tin or a zippo lighter.
Thought it would be cool to have a zippo gun. I know people do it, but with piezoelectric ignition, it could be SUPER compact.
Simon Blatherwill - Sat, 06 Sep 2014 22:36:02 EST ID:VGutYBla No.6473 Ignore Report Quick Reply
That would be cool. Have you got any plans drawn up to see if it would work?

I found this that looks pretty cool: http://www.everydaynodaysoff.com/2010/11/27/zippo-lighter-gun/
Frederick Heblingchatch - Sun, 07 Sep 2014 22:53:39 EST ID:2s0Y1xJY No.6475 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yep I'm pretty sure that's where I first got the idea.
I don't have any formal plans at the moment, I just made it a goal of building a system that could safely fire .22 rounds before getting fancy about it. After studying the extensiveness of mechanical/physics knowledge necessary to casually construct things like this, I don't think I will be able to put it together until I have some serious free time. Plus, I'm back in school now, so I gotta focus on finishing my Biology major before I can go and do all the other projects.
>Having ADD doesn't help either.

career advising by Reuben Buzzshaw - Tue, 02 Sep 2014 17:42:41 EST ID:h4yAb3hN No.6468 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Completed my first term community college. All I know is I'm pretty good at math and I enjoy it. People keep telling me to pursue engineering degree or something. Don't know what else I would want to do. Have a career advising appointment in a couple weeks. I want to know what my choices are if I do decide to become an engineer. Do you guys have any advice for me? I would seriously appreciate it.
Gazpacho - Wed, 03 Sep 2014 23:44:52 EST ID:9Fgjepcp No.6469 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Advice for following any career line; pick one you good go to work on a shitty day and tolerate if at worst, or at best makes your day better. From there see what you'd wanna practice. CE, CS, EE, ME or in my metallurgy.
Gazpacho - Wed, 03 Sep 2014 23:46:44 EST ID:9Fgjepcp No.6470 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Fuck my grammar isn't with me tonight.

can this be done? by Simon Duvingdore - Wed, 06 Aug 2014 00:34:57 EST ID:zCR9OQf3 No.6429 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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is it possible to engineer robotic engineers to make nanos that go into the stream and flow of a cancer patient?

i see doctors these days using technology kinda like a video game right?

if nano technology is real then why can't it be usesd to cure cancer? and then little lasers or something eat away at the cancerous cells bit by bit.. i mean.. if it can be done would this be a practical way to rid the body of cancerous cells?
Rebecca Cimmerwater - Sun, 31 Aug 2014 06:03:54 EST ID:5JL102Ix No.6466 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Nothing close to nanodocs, like in Dirty Pair: Sim Hell or the Eric Bana Hulk, Michael Crichton's "Prey" covered the problems with making itsy little clanking self-replicators pretty well.
Closest I've heard to that was an application of Buckyballs made of a co-polymer, like a tank of them used as a filter, that captures diseased blood cells for treating leukemia. Only they had to manufacture the buckyballs in space, in microgravity.

Thermite yo by Shitting Bushstune - Thu, 21 Mar 2013 07:40:29 EST ID:nhiG8qtg No.5506 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Would this work? If so how could it be optimized? I was thinking of adding some barium nitrate in there but I fear it may burn too quickly, was also wondering how effective it would be if the oxidizer was replaced with say, copper oxide?. I need suggestions from the fine folk of /tesla/.
16 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Sidney Brocklestone - Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:06:39 EST ID:5gD9lQi4 No.6421 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I lol'd pretty hard.
CrazyFolksTribe !loJSOMZg0g - Thu, 31 Jul 2014 01:55:52 EST ID:dad5QzS2 No.6425 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Matilda Geblingdale - Sat, 16 Aug 2014 19:03:20 EST ID:zo57f3iv No.6444 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>thermite near any part of your body
retard had it coming
Albert Greenfield - Wed, 27 Aug 2014 17:49:39 EST ID:5+sMfTlK No.6459 Ignore Report Quick Reply
OP's dildo may contain sensitive information, and consequently he/she needs a way to destroy it quickly should it fall into enemy hands. Consider adding a radio detonator in addition to >>5517 's advice.
Angus Dundlehall - Fri, 29 Aug 2014 09:31:41 EST ID:SwrqeSTp No.6464 Ignore Report Quick Reply
This boards namesake would be proud, you guys.

Water System by Henry Greenham - Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:09:15 EST ID:zp5ivIRS No.6461 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1409238555876.png -(379587B / 370.69KB, 482x509) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 379587
Hey /tesla/

2nd year Civil Engi student here. I'm balls deep in an assignment for a Water Systems unit taught by some Indian guy. His english isn't too great and there's often small spelling errors in his lecture material and sometimes equations.

In this assignment he asks the following question;
"Water is pumped from underground storage the ground reservoir to the network ABCD.
The flow in DC is 15 L/s and C = 100 for all pipes."

My question is what are DC and C?
I'm thinking DC is De-Compressible? I'm not sure and all google searches lead to electrical current, not that of water.

Also not sure what C is either. Any help appreciated.
Henry Greenham - Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:14:22 EST ID:zp5ivIRS No.6462 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Fuck I'm stupid. Just realised DC means the pipe connection between D and C. Sorry guys. Still not sure what C could be. NB. LIKE IT MATTERS ON TESLA FUCK ME RIGHT? KEK

Motherfucking control knobs by Thomas Baggleworth - Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:31:52 EST ID:7QLzDrO3 No.6435 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Why they so expensive?

I was looking for colorful flashy knobs like featured on Build Your Own Clone (who has them for $.60 to $.95 USD each, expensive in quantity..) and thought, man I would love to put some clear knobs on my projects.

Then I looked into acrylic resin and making my own molds and shit. Anyone have experience in this? I basically want to make my own clear acrylic knobs for potentiometers. (but it seems like a useful skill to have for other applications too.)

HOWEVER, I also read about getting some acrylic cylinders like the pic related and hitting them with a "set screw" and putting a piece in there but I could not find anything for my potentiometer to use. They're not the ones with a flat side or even an indention for a flat head screw driver..they're just bald and smooth.

But that's neither here nor there.

> Anyone do acrylics and molding and shit and have any advice on getting started?
It seems like it could be fucking useful for making little acrylic parts here and there.

>Would you advise in support of the acrylic cylinders?
I'm handy with the dremel and have all the bits and pieces to do it if need be. But unlike the molding scenario, I couldn't be able to shave down a cylindrical piece of acrylic and keep it's transparency :[
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Phyllis Sunderbork - Thu, 14 Aug 2014 00:25:28 EST ID:7QLzDrO3 No.6438 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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I carved one with my dremmel out of wood. Got some tiny wooden sticks from Lowes. Carved a flathead on one end, and a tiny shaft up the other and stuck it through the hole in the acrylic sheet I put over the buck converter. It worked, but was loose. I think I'm just going to keep using a tuning fork though.

With that said, however, you can safely remove component and replace it with a potentiometer of equal resistance. Like so (this is what I made in the pic related):
Phyllis Sunderbork - Thu, 14 Aug 2014 00:43:45 EST ID:7QLzDrO3 No.6439 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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I just realized I said tuning fork and I don't remember if that's the official name or just something we called it. It's what we called them in the military when I was a radio tech. We'd call them tuning forks because, quite literally, we tuned frequency filters, amplifiers, and hetrodyning components on radio boards.

Pic related, "tuning screwdriver" also brings pictures of what I'm talking about. Usually the handle is all plastic and only the tiny flathead tip is metal so that you can safely tune components on live boards.

Properfags who only want to do shit properly would tell you to use this on that potentiometer type but a small screwdriver like in a prescription glasses maintenance kit will work fine too.
Ernest Bromblecheck - Sun, 17 Aug 2014 19:53:52 EST ID:HF5RlaE4 No.6447 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I usually just get the best I can find on ebay, those are $14 for a 48x22mm solid aluminium knobs and they look awesome on amps. If you want clear ones it looks like you'll really have to mold them yourself - I could only find one ugly model on ebay but perhaps they're out there somewhere. If you decide to go full DIY, remember that you need some way of fastening the knob to your pot. I recommend making a mold of the size you want and having some kind of insert that will accomodate for the 6mm pot knob as well as the fastening screw. I guess your best bet is to use 6mm thick plastic, threading it with your preferred thread size, turning a screw into that thread and using that together with the mold (you'll need something to center it in the mold). I hope that was clear enough, if not I can invest 9001h in paint and make some drawings for you.
a bunch of other places sell the same thing, just google "bourns trimpot tool" and you'll find them. I bet you could find a cheaper offering, but $2.80 is already pretty good. There's a bunch of other kinds but the ones I've seen are just glorified plastic screwdrivers - what you want is a tool that has the blade recessed into the body like the one I linked to so you don't slip off the trimpot while turning. Takes some fiddling to get it into the slot, but once it's in you can safely turn it with no danger of slipping.

Betsy Duzzledon - Wed, 20 Aug 2014 07:46:03 EST ID:+nETLFaO No.6450 Ignore Report Quick Reply
"bourns trimpot tool"
Thanks ! now i know what to look for
Nicholas Clockleforth - Fri, 22 Aug 2014 20:08:50 EST ID:mhOkUYJD No.6456 Ignore Report Quick Reply
OP, I just googled this to see whether it's a thing, and apparently it is:
You could use the acrylic cylinders and then polish the surfaces where you cut them to get back the shine and transparency - I guess you'd need to get a pretty straight and neat cut in the first place if you want it to look nice though. You could also use some fine-grit sandpaper first to get it almost perfectly smooth so you don't have to polish too much if your cuts don't leave a nice surface. You're gonna need to wet sand it if you go that route, so make sure to use waterproof sand paper and get a decent variety of grits including some very fine ones - sanding is much easier and faster than polishing, and 5000 grit sandpaper leaves a surface that's almost perfectly smooth to the touch so you'll have it smoothed out nicely with a few runs of polishing.

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