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Sandwich


Kirtaner & Spardot's 420chan Wedding

To all guests, live viewers, and our Internet family, THANK YOU.
VODs will be edited soon, we are all so tired.
Wedding Gifts
5 out of 16 seeds sprouted by Archie Blythewill - Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:33:51 EST ID:oo8zzN+e No.145905 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I planted 16 seeds about a week ago from a reliable breeder.

In a few days, 3 popped. In a few more days, 2 more popped. Now it's been nothing for a few days. Am I being too impatient, my time perspective off, or should I lightly unbury and see if they popped a tap root or will that do more damage than good and just let them sit and if they make it they make it but if they aren't gonna make it nothing I do will help?
13 posts and 5 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>>
Fanny Pittway - Sat, 19 May 2018 14:08:05 EST ID:QywoISVZ No.146006 Ignore Report Quick Reply
wet paper towel in the baggy trick is how i germinate all my seed and i highly advise you go that route
>>
Walter Turveyspear - Mon, 21 May 2018 18:17:33 EST ID:55peluM6 No.146008 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146006
Highly reliable.
I started some seeds in rockwool out of curiosity, and because I wasn't making enough clones to use the full sheet, and it works well too.

Can't think of why you'd do the cubes unless you already had some cubes, no reason to waste the money....
>>
Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 12:06:25 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146262 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>145905
I used to unbury the seeds all the time when I was starting out, and if they poped a root you can usually see it without unburying it too much, so if you are curious I say go for it.

>>145908
I do not understand why people keep advising this paper towel method.
I have a 100% success rate of germinating in streight coco and once I tried the paper towel method, since hey, I wanna be cool and proffesional like those other guys, but ended up with 1/4th of my seeds not germinating.
>>
Henry Sudgeford - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 20:58:50 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146263 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146262
I mean you should always do what works best for you but the paper towel method is tried and true, it seems possible that 1/4 of seeds you used were bad to begin with. I've personally been successful with this method, but there's always the odd seed that simply doesn't want to sprout, I can't imagine starting them in cocoa would make a difference.
>>
Eugene Sellercocke - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:05:23 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146264 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146263
Yeah, I wanted to add that this is just my personal anecdote and doesn't mean shit in grand scheme, since, yeah, maybe it was the seeds, maybe I did something wrong, maybe storage issues by me or place I bought it from (although those were just regular seeds I always buy), but forgot.

Planting them already sprouted was pretty cool, but imo streight to substrate is much simpler. I just put those fuckers horizontally-ish, cover them up, add some water, couple days later, bam, a little green bastard.


Leaves dying, what's happening? by Phoebe Givingham - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:29:10 EST ID:7XvOeivC No.146257 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Any ideas what causes this? It's almost exclusively the lower leaves doing this and some lowest small flowering branches nodding off or browning and dying but they are like 3 feet from the lights anyway.
The monsters are about 5 feet tall so obviously light penetration in the lowest levels is slim.

Been some 2 weeks in flower counting from first pistils.
Hydroponic, using bloom:micro in 2:1 ratio, EC around 1.3-1.5, but it keeps rising so I'm going down to 1 slowly. Doesn't seem to be nute burn though.
Using liquid silicon occasionally at 1 ml/litre. Sometimes adding hydrogen peroxide 1 ml/litre tops. Using top max 2-4 ml/l.
PH fluctuates approximately between 5.7-6.5 depending on adding new water etc.
Temps may be a little high but not super overkill. There is colder intake blowing under the canopy at almost ground level. Not sure if too cold.
>>
newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:33:05 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146258 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146257
They might have windburn, or it could be the plant just putting more power into the buds and killing off the leaves that don't get as much light. The wind can gently rustle the leaves, but if any of them are waving around constantly or swaying hard it's probably windburn.
>>
newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:35:16 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146259 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146258
Two stages of PH imbalance damage, are you measuring PH?
>>
newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:36:26 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146260 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146259
nvm im high good luck disregard second post
>>
Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:54:55 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146261 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146257
looks like phosphorus deficiency.

Maybe your plant is so big it needs even more phosphorus.
But I am noob so you probably should disregard my guess work.


Any mycologists here? by David Duckson - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 21:47:40 EST ID:uA4MRYo6 No.146233 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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First off no, i'm not looking to grow my own mushrooms. This is about hunting wild mushrooms. I just got back from my first hunt ever, I had chosen boletes since they are relatively safe with no deadly lookalikes. I've learned that to verify boletes you just have to check that the pores aren't bright yellow or red, and that when sliced open it doesn't bruise blue. Do that and you're good. Gonna fry them up in a little bit, nervous but I shouldn't be. Anyway, I'm going to need some help learning about and identifying mushrooms in the coming months, since mushroom season is upon me now. My main goals are to get lots of boletes, puff balls (I know the identification rules for those too), and possibly chantrelles if I can find any (I know to beware of false cantrelles, these seem to be the most difficult to identify on my list, but still good for beginners). I found what I suspect are young honey mushrooms also, and they're the main reason I made this thread. I'm going to be observing them over the next days or weeks to see how they develop and I may be able to tell if they're honey mushrooms by then. Still, if I'm not absolutely certain beyond a shadow of a doubt I will not eat honey mushrooms. They have a deadly lookalike, the galerina. But from pictures it seems that the galerina has a slimy cap, while the honey mushroom has a dry, slightly hairy cap.
>>
David Duckson - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 21:50:49 EST ID:uA4MRYo6 No.146234 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146233
And I just learned Galerina has rusty-brown spores while the honey mushroom will only have white spores. Soooo I guess I'm good now. STILL I'm desperate for other mycologists to talk to. People who are interested in all mushrooms, not just the ones that get you high. Those are good too, but I want more. I want to get rare, medicinal mushrooms that only grow in the wild. Tomorrow in fact I'm thinking about going out to collect some coral fungus, which must be used fresh. I'll have to do some more research to check for any dangers. I really want to see what will happen to me health-wise if I start supplementing with wild edible and medicinal mushrooms/fungus.
>>
Shit Bundlewater - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:01:11 EST ID:uA4MRYo6 No.146256 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146234
I have expanded into coral mushrooms! Turns out coral mushrooms have no deadly lookalikes, although some have been claimed to cause stomach distress? But then again, there's cultures across the globe, globally, from mexico to china, that consider ALL corals to be safe, and sell all corals regularly at markets, and this would not be a practice if there was any common deadly or even truly poisonous corals. I won't eat ANY mushroom raw, and apparently that may be the reason some people get stomach pain. Eating corals raw. Anyway, Corals are on the menu! They're delicious battered and deep fried. They come out like chips!


Watering by Caroline Wibbermere - Tue, 14 Aug 2018 18:20:37 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146255 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I had problems with overwatering before. And/Or roots not getting enough oxygen.

So this time around I got those fabrique pots (smart grow pots or something) for 20L (this is about 6 gallons in imerial units) put the medium there.
One is only coco, the other is coco +20% or so perlite. rinsed them and all so they were soaking wet.
The dried for 2-3 days while I was getting my seeds (both auto) I put em there, added some water with my minerals on top of them (just a little though) they sprouted and all, since they sprouted it's been about 10 days and in that time I only watered them once with about 200-300ml, that was about 2 days ago and the soil was dry for 5cm (2inch) in.
And while all this time they've been growing quite good(the best I had I might add) I am worrying of missing wattering, but at the same time I am paranoid of overwatering as I did before.
Got any good tips? Or maybe some advice on how to judge if I should water based on plant condition?
my theory right now is that the plants keep growing roots that grow into wet medium so that's why they've been Ok, and if what they tell about roots being twice as deep as the plant is tall is true then the roots definetly have access to moisture.

So yeah, anyone got any tips for paranoid overwaterer.


Spider mites? What's happening =( by newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 11:59:10 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146241 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I've been using neem oil for about two weeks now, once every three days before lights out. The last living mite I saw was about three days ago, I sprayed them again last night.
7 posts and 5 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>>
Rebecca Duckworth - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:15:14 EST ID:XsBfi673 No.146249 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146243
>Fox Farms Ocean Forest potting mix
Thats a strong mix and nicely balanced for PH but the issue with most soil based grows is the plant eats more than the soil can provide especially when you move too flower.
Have you added a bit of topsoil too it or nutrient mix? Something as simple as Tomato plant food or "easygro" can work absolute wonders
>>
newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:24:01 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146250 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146247
I actually started all five seedlings in mud in plastic solo cups, the best dirt I could find around my house. I mixed it up pretty well and added some mulch, and once they sprouted I mixed a bit of tomato food into the water before watering them. Since I've transplanted them I've given them nothing but neem oil & water
>>
Rebecca Duckworth - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:34:13 EST ID:XsBfi673 No.146252 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146250
Maybe want to put a bit more in
>>
Esther Feblingridge - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:08:05 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146253 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146241
It looks like a lack of light. Its internodes are few and far apart. The leaves look pathetic like they can't photosynthesize properly. Nutes are there as it's burning but not enough light to use em.

Give it more light. Ventilation for more light. Problem solved.
>>
newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:26:58 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146254 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146253
think the nutrients are burning the leaves??? see the webs and holes on the leaves? I'm at 4250 Lumens currently, I assumed it would be enough. Also it has tons of ventilation and fresh air, though I've been cooling my grow room because I heard it makes it harder for the mites to reproduce.


most basic question possible by Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:14:26 EST ID:eEq8QAy8 No.146238 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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is there an unwritten rule about spacing when growing cannabis? can plants be too close together? you obviously want them to have enough room to grow to their maximum potential but beyond that, do they need additional space?
>>
Cornelius Begglegold - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:58:31 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146239 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146238
Oh yes. I made this mistake this year with my first outdoor grow, planted my seedlings only 4 feet apart. The result was one plant that grew into a 4x4 and 6 foot tall monster hogging all the sunlight from the remaining plants which suffered from the shading but still tried to grow into the big one. I was able to train the shaded plants to grow outward so that they can get more sun, but they could have done a lot better with some more spacing.

Now indoors is a different story, with a bigger space you find yourself needing a better light source so more space isn't always necessarily better there.
>>
Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 22:23:31 EST ID:eEq8QAy8 No.146240 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146239
thanks for the response and valuable information. let me know if I have this correct: outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time, and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources?
>>
Cornelius Begglegold - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:27:35 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146251 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146240
>outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time

Thats one way to look at it. You already have the most powerful light source available: the sun. So the more space you give your outdoor plants the more space they have to spread out and grow big without running into each other. I put my plants directly into the ground so there is no moving them, but if your plants are in pots obviously you can move them however they need.

>and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources?

I wouldn't say indoor lighting is better. Actually with indoor lighting limited in the amount of space you can use because your light source is smaller. The difference is that indoors you have control over your plants and when you want them to flower, so you can harvest a lot sooner than with outdoors. Whereas outdoors you are at the mercy of mother nature.


Help! by Beatrice Sunnerridge - Sat, 04 Aug 2018 13:50:17 EST ID:DS2FRIes No.146227 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Am I royally fucked? Some of the burgeoning leaves have missing parts (it looks like tiny holes). I don't know whether it's a genetic defect or just mite eating them. Should I worry about it?
>>
Augustus Crabblemire - Tue, 07 Aug 2018 02:25:02 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146228 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146227
yes thats russet mites
>>
Ernest Fanshaw - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 05:30:36 EST ID:DS2FRIes No.146229 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146228
Are you sure? I didn't see any mites under the leaves.
>>
Simon Gannerledge - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 00:47:51 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146232 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146228
Is this a /crops/ meme?

>posts a picture of weed "whats wrong with my plant?"
>Yep its russet mites.
>>
Priscilla Wabberfield - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:48:00 EST ID:niXwx21I No.146235 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146227
By the way, it seems to be a quite puzzling problem. I've just checked out Grasscity and guess what? I'm not the only one who has been having it. But nobody has answers yet. https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/a-few-holes-in-a-leaf-no-sign-of-pests-withpics.415556/page-2
I also have roaches (yeah, it's a shame but I can't get rid of them for now). Can they possibly nibble at leaves?


russet mites by Oliver Waffingtig - Wed, 13 Jun 2018 23:10:30 EST ID:uBY6Q3qf No.146058 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
File: 1528945830876.jpg -(313062B / 305.72KB, 650x862) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 313062
russet mite discussion:
what to do about them?
how to prevent them?
20 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>>
Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:39:04 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146216 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146212
Its got a 65% better LD50 number, but a longer half-life. The stuff I read about it didn't say a thing about russets, it was all about spider mites, which I already have under control. Have you tried it for russets? If so do you have any idea if chitin growth inhibitors fuck with soil microbes? I bet it would work like a charm on PM, but thats already easy to control with lemon juice and alcohol, which is my go-to spray if I don't know what else to do. Works on all sorts of stuff & completely edible, but it can give your leaves a curl for a day or two if its too strong.
Thanks for tipping me off on the Tetrasan, I didn't see that at the hydro shop when I went looking for russet killers. They didn't have anything at all specifically for russets, all the miticides were for two spotted spider mites. I was hoping to find something with abamectin when I went there, but they didn't have that either.
Someone could make a pile of money on a russet mite product, hopefully it hits the shelves some day soon.
>>
Albert Shittingway - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 19:44:44 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146223 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146080
I tried growing in nothing but perlite with some gravel at the top and I got something munching on my roots big time. I want to try a deep water culture again. If you can control root zone temperature and oxygenation and light exposure you don't have many issues. I think maybe I could convert an old mini fridge to a root chamber. Maybe put some plexiglass in front of the opening so I can open the door of the fridge and look at the roots. Put an air stone in there and pump it full of bubbles and you get super fast growth and you can easily induce drought stress on the plant during flowering to simulate the dry season that causes resin production to increase to seal off stomata and avoid the plant from losing too much water by just letting the water level drop a little bit lower than usual before adding more water.
>>
Simon Gegglehall - Sat, 04 Aug 2018 00:06:42 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146226 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146223
Thanks for sharing the results of your experiment even if it didn't work out.
>>
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146230 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146226
I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high.

Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated.

My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 ga…
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Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146231 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146230
BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that.

Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer a…
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LED burn or not by Alice Crennerpock - Thu, 26 Jul 2018 12:51:31 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146185 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I think I might have killed my plant with too much LED.

Had a plant growing under 7 5.5W bulbs and one 50W (All actual draw) at ~40cm height (15 inch)
It was doing fine, not great but good enough.
Then I got two more 50W leds and placed them on at the same heigh.
At which poing my plant basically stoped growing completly and the leaves started slowly turning yellow. I though it was because I overwatered it twice in a row(got almost 50% run off both times) and that's what caused leaves to yellow and stunt growth.
Then I planted new seed. it sprouted grew first two real leafs then they raised almost vertically and then they slowly started getting yellow too, like on the previous plant and it didnt grew one bit for about 5 days now. I did place it at about 60cm (23inch) heigh on the 2nd day or so but it didn't help

The space is 60cm by 60cm so about 0.36 m2 (3.87 square feet), medium is coco.

So, is it LED burn after all? Or some other combination of things?
If it's LED should I take out some LED's or put them higher?

pic is not mine but looks similarly, although mine were more yellow than brown.
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
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Walter Gingernitch - Sat, 28 Jul 2018 09:31:56 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146203 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146194
I will try watering mroe properly this itme, will try to look at the condition of the plant and not the soil(which I never done before, but hope I will manage), since it got dry here and top layer gets dry very fast.
Any tips on watering? Like what to look for in plant when it needs water?

Also I do give it nutes every time and ph is 5.8-5.9,
>>
Sophie Tillingbury - Sat, 28 Jul 2018 21:27:56 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146204 Ignore Report Quick Reply
If you're overdoing LED light intensity the flower will bleach white, but won't otherwise look harmed. Its kinda neat you should try it sometime. Your problem is something else; heat, overwatering, underwatering, potbound, too much nutes, not enough nutes or it might just be a natural fade.
>>
Phoebe Movingridge - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 09:36:39 EST ID:ePUTzbMD No.146224 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146203
Once the roots fill the container, you're supposed to keep it wet. Treat coco as hydroponics and make sure you get runoff every watering. If you let the coco dry it'll start accumulating salts which in turn start to lock off nutrients, fuck up the pH and burn the plant.
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Fuck Sinkinfoot - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 22:47:34 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146225 Ignore Report Quick Reply
New development, I meassured temps and it turned out to be at least 35C-40C inside.
it's usually cold as fuck where I live, so I was disregarding temps completly, but there has been a heatwave going on and it didn't help that those new 50W leds were actively cooled by fans.
Did some rearanging and shit and tried adding some cooling elements to the equasion, hoping to knock it down to atleast 29C, will check in the morning
>>
Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:15:56 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.146237 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146204
Bleaching has nothing to do with intensity and everything to do with missing spectral components. It only happens with those red/blue disco lights.
Full spectrum white LEDs don't have these problems, and they have become more efficient than the narrow spectrum ones in the past years.


Liquid culture ready? by Eliza Wankinstock - Tue, 17 Jul 2018 10:34:19 EST ID:zoxq6Z04 No.146159 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I made this a week ago and Its my first time
I don't know if I can tell if this liquid culture has well,.. cultured
>what do you think
>>
pr - Thu, 19 Jul 2018 02:21:46 EST ID:91FQ6Zw9 No.146163 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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i cant see shit, apart from those black spots which i hope are on the outside.

how did you prepare the LC? id recommend to only 'noc up a small test batchnat first or even better check that shit on agar
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Alice Buzzshaw - Thu, 19 Jul 2018 17:12:23 EST ID:vdtZzyP7 No.146165 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146163
pressure cooked the jars empty
made the liquid culture as per
http://en.psilosophy.info/detailed_grow_log_tek_penis_envy_in_a_monotub.html
did it in a totally clean room with no air flow
once I made the culture I pc'd the culture in the already sterile jars
I let it cool over night
and inoculated in a completely sterile environment
>>
Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:32:19 EST ID:vdtZzyP7 No.146220 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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So I did this
>>146165
and I got this
>>
Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:35:01 EST ID:vdtZzyP7 No.146221 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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>>146220
And this looks like it could be good
but I dunno my dudes
>>
Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:54:32 EST ID:vdtZzyP7 No.146222 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146221
and the dark cloudy stuff its actually kinda white up close but since its denser then the water around It and shadows itself


LED lumens per cubic feet? by Sidney Dodgetag - Thu, 19 Jul 2018 20:52:54 EST ID:L9qbicZu No.146166 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I have a tent that is 41 cubic feet. I have 29k lumens from my LED lights. Will this be optimal for that tent space? I don't care about heat, just whether that lumens per cubic foot is good with LEDs. Does anybody have an idea or does it entirely depend on the LED spectrum?
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Alice Foshhood - Thu, 19 Jul 2018 21:34:19 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146167 Ignore Report Quick Reply
anything more than 1000w/square meter is overkill
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Phineas Hemblefuck - Mon, 23 Jul 2018 00:33:53 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146176 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146166
>Cubic feet
Totally useless measurement
What the square footage?
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Oliver Sickleterk - Mon, 23 Jul 2018 17:39:38 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.146178 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Oh you americans

>>146167
Actually it's even half of that. 400W/sqm is considered optimal.
You can go higher, and get something out of it but you'd have to utilize some vertical growing techniques like V-sog, scrog/lst.



LED spectrum wise, get warm white 2700-3500k low cri high efficient LEDs should be at 160-200 lumen/watt (yes 200, check out samsung linear led modules)
These are better than any possible red/blue light at this point. Don't buy the purple crap, nobody in the greenhouse industry uses them.
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Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:57:39 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146219 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146178
The sun puts down about 1100watts per square meter. Does it for free too. If you could control the heat and pay the power bill at that density of light indoors the plants could almost certainly handle it. Maybe if you lived in Barrow, Alaska, kept your tent outdoors during midwinter and powered it with stolen crude oil.
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Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:09:43 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.146236 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146219
Most of the suns energy isn't used by the plants. And that 1kw /sqm figure is true for high noon near the equator with a clear sky, so...
Anyway that 400W / sqm figure is a general ballpark figure for indoor and it has some caveats.
That was true for HPS light (if you use highly efficient leds it's actually a little bit lower even) and it is meant to get the most out of a particular light meaning:
If you give it more space the quality of the product will suffer, if you give it less space the yield won't be as high.
Of course if you want to get the most out of a particular space you go with more light intensity.
1000W / sqm is still too much (not to say it won't work you are just wasting power and making it hard on yourself.)
600W / sqm if you want to get the most out of an area. Any more again you will be wasting power and it will be harder to keep cool.


Curling leaves by Spazer - Tue, 10 Jul 2018 23:45:08 EST ID:TdkE6Oti No.146123 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So, my plants are looking a bit afflicted and I can't seem to find anything that matches the looks of the symptoms exactly.

*It's an outdoor grow
*The plants have been growing healthy and fine up until flowering
*Now the leaves around the bud are curling in odd shapes and directions.

Could be an insect infestation and I'm going to be spreading diatomaceous earth to slow it down while diagnosing.

Anyone see this before?
14 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
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Hamilton Maddlepig - Tue, 24 Jul 2018 16:45:06 EST ID:NCtp+u6l No.146183 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146182
I think you're misinterpreting your results slightly....
Because the one you treated with sulfur has mad tacos, and the one you treated with sesame doesn't.
Also, oil sprays and soaps can cause leaf curl too.
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Archie Henkinsatch - Wed, 25 Jul 2018 14:43:06 EST ID:TdkE6Oti No.146184 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146183
Maybe, I was going more from the new growth. The sulfur treated one has leaves coming in fairly normal looking while the sesame one still has mad curl on the new growth.
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Charlotte Pezzleworth - Sun, 29 Jul 2018 20:28:54 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146211 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146184
i've been fighting with russets since may, watching the new growth is what to look for, you got a good eye. i get the impression that russets can't feed on the fully mature leaves very well, they tend to go for the soft young flesh. with my situation sulphur works temporarily and you'll start seeing fresh russet damage if you don't spray every 3 days.
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David Blythespear - Tue, 31 Jul 2018 01:46:04 EST ID:TdkE6Oti No.146213 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146211
Seems to be the case. I lapsed for two days after a week and a half of solid schedule and they came back.

I don't think it helps that I found the source too...a huge bramble of salmonberries that's infested with the buggers nearby. (Or what I think is them. I'll take pics) Gonna work on clearing that out.
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Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:50:13 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146218 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146213
If you go around and start looking close at a lot of the plants that you're familiar with you notice that a lot of them seem to get the same sort of leaf damage not too long after summer temperatures in the 80 - 90 range start to kick in. According to some sectors to thought there is a different species of russet mite for each plant it hassles and that a tomato russet mite (for example) couldn't survive on a cannabis plant, but the guy at the hydro shop says that blackberries are a russet mite host species, if thats the case then salmonberry would be likely culprit as well. Too bad if so, those berries are really attractive when they start to shift color from yellow to red, tasty too.


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