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Discord Now Fully Linked With 420chan IRC

Reccomended Reading?

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- Tue, 19 Dec 2017 16:48:17 EST OFj3gV0C No.145649
File: 1513720097552.jpg -(271409B / 265.05KB, 916x1338) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Reccomended Reading?
Newfag here, I see that the List [Multiple eBooks about growing Marijuana] linked on the wiki is down. I am hoping some one here will provide some direction in the form of listing quality Resources and Books, relating to growing, specifically mushrooms and marijuana. a /crops/ starter pack if you will.


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- Sun, 17 Dec 2017 21:33:28 EST Dnw+jc9U No.145641
File: 1513564408163.jpg -(180386B / 176.16KB, 400x533) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Ticks
How to get rid of small white tick-like critters? Are they dangerous to my plant? Of all places the chose to scurry around the area where my plant has sprouted. What should I do? Can they severe stunt the development of my plant?
1 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Esther Dibberhodge - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 22:22:24 EST Dnw+jc9U No.145643 Reply
Are you sure? People say that they can become a disaster when their population gets bigger. And the higher temperature you have - the more active and numerous they get. It's 32C in my growbox rn. I've seen at least three of these buggers so far.
Eliza Goodlock - Mon, 18 Dec 2017 02:34:15 EST ol/Sob4l No.145644 Reply
they like wet and mold, so if they show up in great numbers you got other problems
Phyllis Gommleshaw - Mon, 18 Dec 2017 09:45:12 EST 3FKmUudm No.145645 Reply
Springtails are harmful, a healthy plant is free of critters.

Wtf wrong with my leaves

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- Sat, 16 Dec 2017 11:52:52 EST HzZs1mVm No.145637
File: 1513443172912.jpg -(1214484B / 1.16MB, 2576x1932) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Wtf wrong with my leaves
They have a normal low heat light bulb as their light rn, it's like an energy saver one, they're just small and I don't have any good lights yet, but why are the tips on the leaves yellowing, the lights not hot or anything, I used old compost garden soil and I water them a little once a day with tap water, so I hope thats enough info
Lydia Bunkinwill - Sun, 17 Dec 2017 08:57:22 EST 3FKmUudm No.145639 Reply
You're overwatering and the plants are suffocating because of that. A plant that small doesn't need to be watered daily, once every two weeks should be enough.

Move the light closer.

Problem(s) growing 1st time

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- Wed, 29 Nov 2017 05:59:51 EST mSxFxNgE No.145599
File: 1511953191276.jpg -(1560130B / 1.49MB, 2448x1836) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Problem(s) growing 1st time
It's my first time growing so i knew i would make mistakes.
I have this probleme, can you tell me what it is? I used Janeco light mix, i have a 400W lamp, the top of my plants are at 40cm of it, i extract 400 m3, im at 60 to 50% humidity.
I put 2L of water in 9L pots every 4-5 days (when i feel the dirt is dry), im at week 3 of bloom, i put 3mL of fertilizer per L of water every two watering. I add a PK booster 0-52-33 since last week every two watering too. Those traces appeared 3 weeks ago on one plant and now its on all my "Amnesia" plants (5 of them)
I can give you more details, more pictures if needed
4 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Thu, 30 Nov 2017 01:35:37 EST uUnVQb2w No.145605 Reply

If you don't have a meter and you set your water by color strips or drops, then you add humic and fulvic acids, those drive it way down really quickly the same way if you add silicate it will drive it way up.

In soil 6.2-6.5 is optimal, some strains are a lot more forgiving than others. The wrong ratio of cal/mag can mess things up too if it's way off. That leaf looks mottled like a potassium or phosphorous problem, it usually doesn't affect just half of the leaf though. Potassium, magnesium and sulfur take the biggest hit when you dip below 5.5 ph in soil.
DICHBICHE - Wed, 13 Dec 2017 17:55:59 EST mSxFxNgE No.145625 Reply
1513205759380.jpg -(98792B / 96.48KB, 720x960) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
So, weird developpement to my probleme : here is my unaltered flowering fertilizer, is this a big probleme? I don't know if it mold or crystalization. Im going to get the fertilizer changed tomorrow anyway but having some thoughts could be helpful. Thanks in advance
Represent - Fri, 15 Dec 2017 04:49:59 EST P6kAP9Du No.145633 Reply
YOU DIDN'T update on how your plants are doing. I say stop all fertilizer before you destroy them, they most definitely have had enough nutrients. All these companies try to sell you their over priced fertilizer but remember there's tons of nutrients already in the soil. It's ok to supplement a bit but too much is too much and can be more detrimental than too little nutrients. Also, your pots look kinda shallow, I believe in deep large pots.

Pre sterilized bags

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- Thu, 14 Dec 2017 07:26:13 EST aWb7Y/oB No.145627
File: 1513254373127.gif -(141454B / 138.14KB, 256x185) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Pre sterilized bags
Just wondering exactly how to inoculate these bags. It has a black injector port, with tape over it, do I peel back the tape, inject then put the tape back, or do I just inject through the tape and cover the hole with some of my own tape?
Esther Nebberwater - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 07:31:11 EST aWb7Y/oB No.145628 Reply

The instructions for the grow kit do not say anything about tape, and in the pictures it appears they have just stuck the needle through the tape and the port and not bothered to cover with more tape. I know some use the self healing injector ports, but I can't find any indication the one I has is self healing nor do I know what a self healing injector port is.
press !Bomb6gttYE - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 15:49:27 EST MZkGmkTE No.145631 Reply
if its a self healing injection port, meaning that the material recloses when you withdraw the syringe, you dont have to bother with tape.

if in doubt just desinfect the port, inject and quickly conver with tape
Esther Nebberwater - Thu, 14 Dec 2017 16:45:00 EST aWb7Y/oB No.145632 Reply

Took a chance, if definitely sealed itself after which is nice

When I transplant?

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- Sat, 09 Dec 2017 22:42:47 EST UTa1am+o No.145617
File: 1512877367159.jpg -(1244553B / 1.19MB, 2576x1932) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. When I transplant?
I planted 3 seeds in a small shot glass and they sproutedand I'm a lil attached so I wanna put them in bigger single pots but idk when I should do it, can I do it now? How should I do it?
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 22:16:19 EST uUnVQb2w No.145619 Reply
Wait until they open fully and take a long spoon and scoop them out beneath the taproot with the soil still attached. Put them into soil with perlite in it.
Cyril Benderlut - Mon, 11 Dec 2017 18:44:28 EST ol/Sob4l No.145621 Reply
The sooner the better
right now they only have a juicy tap root that is hard to damage

mushroom fruiting chamber sensors idea

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- Thu, 07 Dec 2017 09:15:33 EST 4s3plGIc No.145615
File: 1512656133687.jpg -(27308B / 26.67KB, 463x463) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. mushroom fruiting chamber sensors idea
I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here I just had an idea for a project. We all know that keeping a fruiting chambers relative humidity above a certain point (people will argue about the exact number) is a major key to getting good flushes as well as fresh air exchange. My question is does the moisture level of the substrate cake you're using also have any kind of effect on fruiting? I ask because I came across this neat little "soil humidity sensor" that can interface with an arduino and I'm assuming a raspberry pi3 as well. I'm using the pi3 to semi automate a misting set up in my future fruiting chamber which will be using a RH sensor that interfaces with the pi3. Would sticking the soil humidity meter into a cake give me any benefit or would I just end up destroying a perfectly good cake? Again this is more just a neat little project idea I came up with.
Wesley Faffinghall - Sat, 09 Dec 2017 15:38:59 EST LGIVCYvr No.145616 Reply
>>My question is does the moisture level of the substrate cake you're using also have any kind of effect on fruiting?

investigate it and tell us, also start with monotubs
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:11:38 EST mPrNbQkB No.145618 Reply
1512911498817.gif -(1316088B / 1.26MB, 800x800) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
any particular reason as to why youre using a raspberry pi? are you data logging via email or monitoring the chamber remotely? otherwise a microcontroller with a few relays will be enough be far

youre not talking about PF cakes are you? if so this whole set up will be a lot of effort for small scale returns.
some people love greenhouses, and they tend to love them back, but i only ever found them really useful compared to a monotub when running tests on newly isolated cubensis strains or fruiting pan. species

concerning the substrate humidity sensor, i dont think theres a lot to be gained since the relation between moisture content and fruiting formation is pretty obvious. just dunk after every flush. you can estimate the loss in water content by weighing fruiting bodies and watching the size reduction.

you should watch out with those digital RH sensors, some models are very unreliable above a certain threshold, youd definetely want to write a short program for recalibration against an analog hygrometer, and RH is really the only way to measure FAE seing as carbondioxide sensors arent that cheap, im not sure if the volatile organics could be used to measure stale air, but simply hooking up the fans to a time control should be enough since stamets gives good starting points on FAE frequency

god speed
Phineas Blackgold - Sun, 10 Dec 2017 23:05:38 EST XLfj5LYA No.145620 Reply
Not sure if you'd gain anything from sticking it INSIDE the cake, that you couldn't get by either keeping the RH at a certain point. The cake is going to transport what it needs from the outside. That is where RH matters. Keep that in the zone and you should be fine. No need to poke around inside the cake.


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- Sun, 22 Oct 2017 20:21:00 EST kj8KK8Ch No.145524
File: 1508718060139.png -(417251B / 407.47KB, 640x1136) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Grow
So I'm buying one of these and I have a few questions

-how big of pots do I need for plants just to wait until I see their sex because I have 2 5 gallon buckets and want to start 5 seeds
-how much perlite should I put in the soil
-what is the cheapest soil I can get best for weed and nutrients
16 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Lillian Garringdale - Wed, 08 Nov 2017 09:14:41 EST 3FKmUudm No.145576 Reply
Yield isn't the only factor. Plants grown under blurple lights are never as complex in the smell and taste department. I've grown with different types of blurples and while they do produce weed, I wouldn't use them if I was the only person smoking the stuff.
Isabella Menkinnidge - Tue, 14 Nov 2017 04:10:46 EST QI1rXhZY No.145584 Reply
Yeah but for the most part users on this site aren't strict connensewers. Indoors all you need is a stable enviroment within an enclosed reflective space for your plants. With around 200w of Cfl, or HPS or Led, and a correct understanding of this plants feeding/watering schedules, come harvest time you should have a decent yield. On top of that you know exactly what went into the grow as far as ferts and pesticides go.
Priscilla Drecklekid - Wed, 22 Nov 2017 01:10:57 EST B0kZyQRI No.145595 Reply
-1 seed in each 5g will work
-go to hardware store or supermarket, gardening store, neighbors compost pile whatever is nearest and find out, etc. if you want to save money by using your own shit give it a go what the hell
User is currently banned from all boards

It starts

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- Fri, 21 Aug 2015 23:48:38 EST djYsvRob No.140610
File: 1440215318273.jpg -(916718B / 895.23KB, 1600x1200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. It starts
Came home from work and my new seedling has sprouted!

Strain is Dinafem's Blue Cheese. According to Dinafem, flowering time for Blue Cheese is 50 days, and should begin before the plant reaches 15 inches.

Grow medium is Fox Farm's Ocean Forest mixed 50/50 with perlite in a 4-gallon grow pot. Nutes are Fox Farms trio, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. From what I understand, Ocean Forest is nutrient-rich enough that adding nutes isn't necessary until flowering begins.

I'll be vegging her under a 2 ft T5 with two 24-watt bulbs, and three 42 watt CFLs. At the moment only the T5 and one of the CFLs is on, the other two will come on once she gets a little bigger. For flower, I'll be using a 300 watt Mars Hydro LED. The LED arrived earlier today, never used one before. Despite being pretty cheap, construction is solid and all the lights work properly. There's no on/off switch, which I don't like, but it shouldn't be an issue.

I don't know whether I'll be scrogging this plant or mainlining.
288 posts and 190 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 07:18:36 EST V9l2ysWH No.145569 Reply
also, sorry for double posting but what do you mean by grey concerning your PE bag?
sure its not cobweb?
Edwin Hannerstine - Sun, 19 Nov 2017 04:26:39 EST K7elgYR+ No.145589 Reply
1511083599340.jpg -(2153817B / 2.05MB, 4308x1080) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Week five of flower.

Clones all recovered from transplant, growing nicely. Strangely, IG#3 on the far right has developed buds, and its fan leaves are covered with trichomes. Reminds me of the first time I grew an auto.

I'm a newbie to shroom growing, and the bag tek seemed like a cheap and low risk starting point. For the most part it's worked well, it was easy to integrate into the grow room, prep and maintenance has been pretty easy, and it's still giving flushes. I've tripped almost daily for the past month and still have plenty of shrooms to last until the new bags start yielding. That said, will probably move on to jars and tubs once I get more experienced. The pack of six 1-pound bags cost $33 shipped so not a huge investment, a nice pressure cooker, agar solutions, laminar hood, ect are all on the wishlist for the future.

Noticeably darker in color than the GT, not nearly as fluffy. Lots of yellow fluidy excretions. It may indeed be cobweb. Probably gonna toss the two PE's outside into the mulch pile.
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sun, 19 Nov 2017 06:50:48 EST 5Bse8gaJ No.145590 Reply
i wouldnt toss them since at the moment theyre still well contained and some cubensis mycellium can be very whispy. a good way to identify cobweb without a magnifying glass is to measure the speed at which the mycellium spreads.
but the secretion sounds like cubensis fighting off some bacteria never had cobweb do that before. if you should have to toss it be sure not to carry too much spores back to your grow room.

and hey, congratulations on taking up such a nice hobby.
im still amazed that its possible to turn horseshit into such a great drug

and you really dont have to have a laminar flowhood eventhough it makes so much more comfortable, a big SAB is good enough for agar work and prepping inoculant syringes.

Shrooms-Pint glass/jam jars rye tek

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- Mon, 13 Nov 2017 07:44:10 EST CdeKassd No.145578
File: 1510577050896.jpg -(50947B / 49.75KB, 640x925) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Shrooms-Pint glass/jam jars rye tek
Brit here who can't get them wide mouth canning jars unless he orders online.I don't want to do that.
I've read this brand of jam jars in the picture are fine to use.Any one used them ? I have a 9ml syringe how many of these 370g jars could I fill up(will be using a mono tub afterwards)

Also read you can use pint drinking glass.just put a bit of tyvek over the top then wrap 3 layers of tin foil over the top.
2 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 09:04:28 EST CdeKassd No.145581 Reply
1510581868896.png -(662266B / 646.74KB, 640x1136) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
what about this jam jar ?
Augustus Grandson - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 11:26:24 EST CdeKassd No.145582 Reply
1510590384896.png -(1353373B / 1.29MB, 640x1136) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Or this big jar of polish.

Also I'm thinkgoing big of using popcorn instead of rye as I can't find it any where
press !XIxc6BpKnU - Sat, 18 Nov 2017 13:25:37 EST F2n040Hc No.145588 Reply
you can use jar without a threading, but id recommend against it.
those glasses are good but you'd have a lot of marmelade. couldnt you order spawn bags over the internet? i really like to use bags for monotubs. any kind of jar that has a top with a popping mechanism will work

>add gypsum to your grain as you soak them
>i normally tape the holes up with medical pore tape, instead of tyvek, but thats only because i find it more convenient
>pressure cook for atleat 90min at 15psi, be careful not to have the glasses in direct contact with the bottom of the cooker.
>be sure to shake the syringe, dont mix the grains after injecting. the spores have to come in contact with eachother, shake at 30% percent colonization

id recommend against popcorn, i find it finicky to get the moisture right. popcorn often ends in bacterial contamination for me. if you could order online you can get it really cheap

id recommend getting the biggest PC you can afford as long as you know it runs at atleast 15psi. once youve chosen a PC you can calculate which jars would fill it in the most efficient way

im really high right now, please feel free to ask any questions

howto tell when ready?

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- Fri, 27 Oct 2017 09:34:47 EST SaNmv8i2 No.145535
File: 1509111287303.jpg -(359951B / 351.51KB, 1052x1088) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. howto tell when ready?
what am i looking for to tell my weed is ready to be harvested? i know i have a month or so left to wait as i'm only in the 6th week.
what should a ready to harvest bud look like? here are three buds of 3 different plants to see where i am at.
6 posts and 2 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:10:38 EST uUnVQb2w No.145574 Reply
1510031438760.jpg -(8167B / 7.98KB, 409x231) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.

When your trichomes/crystals start to lean over like this, and when they're roughly half milky and half amber in color, is when it's done and ready to harvest.
Lillian Garringdale - Wed, 08 Nov 2017 09:09:00 EST 3FKmUudm No.145575 Reply
1510150140692.jpg -(1913951B / 1.83MB, 1458x1692) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
A plant is ready for harvest when all the stigmas have turned orange/brown and receded into the calyxes which should be swollen. At this point the trichome heads will be milky and amber. If there are white stigmas left in the plant, it's more than likely not ready. Sometimes new white stigmas appear when the plant is under stress, for example if it's being flushed. Stigmas that appear at this point should be ignored.

Pictured plant is almost ready to be harvested. Pictured plant is not ready for harvest even though most of the stigmas on most of the buds were orange.

Seed in my weed

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- Fri, 13 Oct 2017 18:10:48 EST paCUvU57 No.145480
File: 1507932648981.jpg -(1499127B / 1.43MB, 2592x1936) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Seed in my weed
2-3 weeks ago i found a seed in my weed. I decided "why the hell not" . So i planted in a decent sized pot, with flower soil, fertilizer included. had it under a halogen light for the first 1 1/2 week. This week bought a Led grow light, pretty sexpensive. Does it look ok to be around 3 weeks old? Should i tranplant it not or wait. got no idea what the roots look like at this point, dont even know how to lift it all out of the pot.

thankfull for tips and stuff. And i know i want a female. but a male could work too. how many grams yield am i looking at if its a male? think in terms of cannabutter.
22 posts and 6 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Augustus Blizzlewill - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 08:13:14 EST paCUvU57 No.145571 Reply
Also its decidedly female. Im 99% sure. the small pistils that become the buds are pointy and long and not small and round.
Augustus Blizzlewill - Sun, 05 Nov 2017 08:17:03 EST paCUvU57 No.145572 Reply
And i can see why bigger lights are better. the lower branches arent getting as much light as they would in the wild.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Tue, 07 Nov 2017 00:06:43 EST uUnVQb2w No.145573 Reply

It's looking great now, right before the stage it's at now, like a week prior, is when you can start to feed it a complete veg formula and not have to worry about it being stunted. That plant in week 5 is what most should look like in week 4.

Sickness after budding

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- Thu, 24 Aug 2017 21:44:39 EST JpZIiZ6j No.145198
File: 1503625479990.jpg -(1914578B / 1.83MB, 2508x3335) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Sickness after budding
My plants were doing fairly well, but after they started budding they came down with something nasty. Any ideas? I'm currently using Maxsea 5-20-20 3x a week
12 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Hannah Clozzleledge - Thu, 31 Aug 2017 20:07:20 EST 9zvqH7Gp No.145270 Reply
I live in Northern California. It's extremely hot here
Oliver Nabblemure - Thu, 07 Sep 2017 18:29:49 EST k0f5YupH No.145309 Reply
OK the burnt tips in this pic look like signs of micronutrient defiency; most likely Mg or Zn.

the cupped leaves here are a sign the plant is trying to dissipate moisture from it's system.

yellowing of the leaves starting a the bottom are a sign of nitro deficency, but the purpling of the stems indicates that it's not N you're lacking, but sulphur.

The spotting and discoloration are another sign of micronute def. Looks like Mn.

Most likely what you need to do is add a moderate doase of a good broad-spectrum micronutrient; specifically one high in sulphur, manganese and zinc. Also, don't water quite so often. Water absorbs and retains heat much better than earth or matrix does and NorCal gets enough sun that constantly sopping roots become a breeding ground for pythia and root rot, both of which can produce that "burnt" look at the edges and tips of leaves. Add a little H2O2 to your nutrient solution when wattering for a few weeks to kill any root-pathogens that may have cropped up.


Don't neglect your micro regimin, invest in a hydometer, and detox your rootbed.
Caroline Murdstone - Sat, 04 Nov 2017 22:19:32 EST DdLNYW5u No.145564 Reply
no fucking idea what I'm talking about but I saw 2 infographics about muhdeficiencies, the post

please stop spreading the micronutrient meme around, 95% of cases is something completely unrelated to micronutrients, and 4,95% you can fix those micronutrient related problems by fixing your pH/stopping salt build up

OP, looks like overwatering+mites+overall shitty feeding regime, but it probably doesn't matter anymore because I'm replying to a fucking 2 months old thread anyway

this board sucks man

What is this?

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- Sun, 08 Oct 2017 04:38:20 EST ytu2Dtd5 No.145464
File: 1507451900499.jpg -(490457B / 478.96KB, 1024x768) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. What is this?
Diagnose this please. Happens to the oldest and biggest leaves first, eventually spreads to the whole plant until nothing is left. Happens in the first month of vegetation, growth is halted, plants never become more than 30cm tall before this hits.

Growing in soil. Soil is a nice airy mix. Not overwatering. Ph is normal for water and soil. Temperatures are normal. Light is not too close.
7 posts and 5 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
INTERPOL !3mB4iDBpWw - Sun, 29 Oct 2017 16:42:52 EST uUnVQb2w No.145544 Reply

Potassium would have mottled leaves, this kind of looks like zinc to me, it yellows the leaf in reverse from an iron deficiency from the tip backwards with interveinal chlorosis

What type of water do you start out with, OP? You should be starting out with rainwater or PH balanced water with NOTHING in it zero PPM to start. You then add your Cal/Mag, then regular nutes, balance the PH again to around 6.3-6.7, keep your PPM's below 900 for indoor until you get used to your strain and what it requires.
Nathaniel Smallhood - Wed, 01 Nov 2017 04:27:47 EST f4mvSiNj No.145551 Reply
my homime says your giving it TOO much light, it doesnt matter that its too close. or just heat stress. but he says it could be a combo of a few things, too much light + too hot. not deficiencys, it mostly only happens on the bottom leaves of the plant, because its your sun leaves first he says its heat+too much light. your welcome.
Caroline Murdstone - Sat, 04 Nov 2017 21:39:19 EST DdLNYW5u No.145561 Reply
full blown enthusiasmo growing methods

OP, what exactly are you feeding your plants? post exact soil, ferts and regime, and tell me you've actually calibrated your ph-meter please, also pics of your growroom would help immensely

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