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420chan is Getting Overhauled - Changelog/Bug Report/Request Thread (Updated March 22)
Outdoor stealth growing by William Subblechick - Thu, 24 Aug 2017 08:49:06 EST ID:utDXI+cU No.145188 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Does anyone here grow gorilla style? Any Tips?
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
George Daffingwot - Fri, 25 Aug 2017 21:03:27 EST ID:RNTWGAl1 No.145203 Ignore Report Quick Reply
How do you know he meant guerrilla?

Maybe he wants to grow things hanging off trees like a fucking ape, you philistine.
Phoebe Blatherridge - Fri, 01 Sep 2017 19:49:43 EST ID:qrcngZJg No.145284 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Cedric Meddleham - Thu, 13 Sep 2018 19:30:59 EST ID:pMGASotS No.146311 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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What they said

UK outdoor by John Hommermot - Fri, 07 Sep 2018 20:55:15 EST ID:HswHWEj2 No.146302 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So ive had this outdoors since about May, i was thinking about chopping it on the 22nd and i was looking for any tips on the perfect dry and cure. Sorry for the bad photo
Rebecca Chunnersuck - Sat, 08 Sep 2018 04:27:17 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.146303 Ignore Report Quick Reply

How did it handle the heatwave? Looks good to me, I had an indoor plant completely ruined due to the heat
John Hommermot - Sat, 08 Sep 2018 17:18:13 EST ID:HswHWEj2 No.146304 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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Yeah no probs , i moved it out the greenhouse. The good clear skies gave her some nice hours of sunshine, damn it was hot though.

I'll change up to a larger pot next time and improve the nutes but i feel that the UK weather just lacks sunshine hours for flower :(
Beatrice Bellybitch - Sun, 09 Sep 2018 03:38:39 EST ID:3cvBQsis No.146306 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Looks nice and will probably look even nicer in 2 weeks, but leave it out as long as you dare. Its packing on more weight and more trichomes every day so calling the 22nd now might leave you with regrets when you're running out of the flower from this plant down the line, especially if there is good weather available after that. Even on a cloudy day the plants are still getting about 100 watts per square meter and they'll grow as long as the temperature is above about 15ºC or so. Just keep your eyes open for the signs of impending botrytis.
The best drying/least loss of flavor I saw last year was a friend of mine who grew somewhat terrible plants, but hung his whole plants to dry in an unheated shed outdoors towards then end of October and waited 3 weeks before putting it in jars. It ended up being a strange combination of ugly, but potent enough flower with great flavor.
nice cherub btw

Wots dis? by Ian Duckcocke - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:33:35 EST ID:Ej9SKL55 No.145583 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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This is growing in my garden bed. I’m from the Bay Area in California, and can’t find it anywhere online through description. Anyone can help?
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Beatrice Fozzlehone - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 10:26:32 EST ID:6BPwtRXz No.145602 Ignore Report Quick Reply
it might pop open later to spread spores and change appearance, this looks like an early stage
Polly Sovinghetch - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:47:55 EST ID:L6ga2OBW No.146296 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Incorporating a lot of woodchips in your soil or as a mulch invites fungus to break it down rather than bacteria due to the lignin. Be careful incorporating it into the soi - this will bind up your available nitrogen in the soil for a year or four depending on soil. But yeah i have a ton in my woodchip pile that's getting regular doses of urine go add nitrogen to help break down the high carbon woodchips. Takes time but it istays warm then converts to mycorrhiza and fungi after anaerobic bacteria end
Henry Trotson - Mon, 03 Sep 2018 02:22:00 EST ID:uA4MRYo6 No.146297 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Looks like a potential kill you dead slowly over a month with no cure very painfully - mushroom.

Spidermites by sadam - Sat, 09 Sep 2017 19:32:42 EST ID:3L3KKG1u No.145319 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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So i have a mild spidermite infestation. Had some random himalayan seeds that i grew on my windowsill, so they are 3 midget mature plants with a small amount of leafs. They are now in the box. Only tiny tiny webs, but you can clearly see the spots where they eat the leaves. About half of the leafs on each plant are affected, the lower once the most. Already removed one set of the worst.
Now this is a no budget grow, i live in poverty and realistically i cant order anything.
i thought about apllying a spray mixture of soap, garlic and then possibly chili to get rid of them. i know people that say garlic repels them if grown as a companion plant. true ?
sadly no pics of my own until now
6 posts and 1 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Cedric Billingman - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 09:58:20 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.146276 Ignore Report Quick Reply
OP spidermites aren't fatal to the plants.

Besides spritzing the plants with water to blast them away (which can reduce their population) just try to keep the temperature as low as possible and you will still get a half decent yield.
The mites won't go away anyway.
To completely get rid of mites you have to start over and sterilize the environment.

Next time use properly store bought soil which won't contain mites.
Molly Fuckingman - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:49:20 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.146280 Ignore Report Quick Reply
How come nobody is smoking plants with tobacco ?
tobacco smoke is as efficient as any commercial bug spray

There is a neet trick you can try to see how deadly it is, catch a fly in a glass and blow some cigarette smoke into the glass, the fly is dead in notime.
found a youtube video
Cornelius Conkinfune - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 09:52:06 EST ID:ePUTzbMD No.146295 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Spidermites adapt to poisons so you need to systematically use different chemicals. There is no one application solution that would completely destroy them.

Spider mites? What's happening =( by newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 11:59:10 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146241 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I've been using neem oil for about two weeks now, once every three days before lights out. The last living mite I saw was about three days ago, I sprayed them again last night.
10 posts and 5 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Esther Feblingridge - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:08:05 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146253 Ignore Report Quick Reply
It looks like a lack of light. Its internodes are few and far apart. The leaves look pathetic like they can't photosynthesize properly. Nutes are there as it's burning but not enough light to use em.

Give it more light. Ventilation for more light. Problem solved.
newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:26:58 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146254 Ignore Report Quick Reply
think the nutrients are burning the leaves??? see the webs and holes on the leaves? I'm at 4250 Lumens currently, I assumed it would be enough. Also it has tons of ventilation and fresh air, though I've been cooling my grow room because I heard it makes it harder for the mites to reproduce.
Jack Garringstock - Wed, 29 Aug 2018 18:19:42 EST ID:ygZ8n1y5 No.146289 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yes I think that's correct.

5 out of 16 seeds sprouted by Archie Blythewill - Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:33:51 EST ID:oo8zzN+e No.145905 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I planted 16 seeds about a week ago from a reliable breeder.

In a few days, 3 popped. In a few more days, 2 more popped. Now it's been nothing for a few days. Am I being too impatient, my time perspective off, or should I lightly unbury and see if they popped a tap root or will that do more damage than good and just let them sit and if they make it they make it but if they aren't gonna make it nothing I do will help?
17 posts and 5 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Eugene Sellercocke - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:05:23 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146264 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Yeah, I wanted to add that this is just my personal anecdote and doesn't mean shit in grand scheme, since, yeah, maybe it was the seeds, maybe I did something wrong, maybe storage issues by me or place I bought it from (although those were just regular seeds I always buy), but forgot.

Planting them already sprouted was pretty cool, but imo streight to substrate is much simpler. I just put those fuckers horizontally-ish, cover them up, add some water, couple days later, bam, a little green bastard.
Polly Bodgefield - Thu, 23 Aug 2018 18:57:34 EST ID:9u92qZyz No.146281 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>I do not understand why people keep advising this paper towel method.


I tried it twice and both times failed miserably.

I've had 100% success with just digging a tiny finger sized hole in the soil about 2 inches deep and watering every now and then.
Frederick Worthingwell - Sat, 25 Aug 2018 02:36:15 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146284 Ignore Report Quick Reply

On my last grow I used 20L bags, and since the substrate was already wet, since I usually rinse it thoroughly in case the manufacturer didn't give a shit about salt and other contaminants. I just added some water, with 1/2 - 1/3 the usual nutes, once when planting, and a tiny bit the next day. And that's it, and I probably could've skiped the second watering, the substrate felt wet enough.

Best plant I've had growing so far.

Retard plant by Matilda Blizzlehall - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 04:26:42 EST ID:aWb7Y/oB No.146278 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I have a gorilla glue autoflower here with (probably) a wide range of problems but am not sure how to proceed.

It's at 16 and a half weeks from seed, however while LSTing about 2 weeks into flower I accidentally snapped the head off. This led to it growing really wide and fat.

During most of the summer the temp was sitting at 32c, obviously too high but nothing else I could do. I also found some bugs on it during the summer, however they appear to not be there any more as far as I can see. The other plants in the tent were not affected by any of these problems and are doing just fine.

The actual problem I have is although the buds are fat, the pistils don't seem to be turning orange. Some are, but it seems to be stalling / going very slow.

Leaves were yellowing as if it were finishing, but some have dried up with some dark spots on them. Just wondering if it will actually finish or if I should just call it and cut it down. The buds are sufficiently fat, it just doesn't look fully finished.

russet mites by Oliver Waffingtig - Wed, 13 Jun 2018 23:10:30 EST ID:uBY6Q3qf No.146058 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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russet mite discussion:
what to do about them?
how to prevent them?
23 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146230 Ignore Report Quick Reply
I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high.

Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated.

My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 ga…
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Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ID:ef1tcmWF No.146231 Ignore Report Quick Reply
BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that.

Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer a…
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Charlotte Blarrywill - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:27:06 EST ID:B0kZyQRI No.146277 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Thats a pretty great guide to growing indoor hydro you packed into those two posts. Good to know your plants turned out nice too, on the topic of pushing maximum light, I'd love to see someone take hyrdoponic growing outdoor and really push things under sunlight, possibly using reflectors of some sort to add to the intensity of the light. Very few people run anything near solar intensity lighting inside and those that do only run it at that intensity near the tops of the buds. Outdoor hydro could be the best way to combine maximum light intensity with max nutes.

Liquid culture ready? by Eliza Wankinstock - Tue, 17 Jul 2018 10:34:19 EST ID:zoxq6Z04 No.146159 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I made this a week ago and Its my first time
I don't know if I can tell if this liquid culture has well,.. cultured
>what do you think
4 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:54:32 EST ID:vdtZzyP7 No.146222 Ignore Report Quick Reply
and the dark cloudy stuff its actually kinda white up close but since its denser then the water around It and shadows itself
Fanny Chinderham - Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:35:42 EST ID:7fhWy1tg No.146267 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>>146159 Only way to find out is a test batch of substrate/agar as someone else said. Best of luck
James Pummledale - Sun, 19 Aug 2018 00:26:07 EST ID:wpPDINo8 No.146272 Ignore Report Quick Reply
A magnetic stirrer is an invaluable LC tool.

Watering by Caroline Wibbermere - Tue, 14 Aug 2018 18:20:37 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146255 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I had problems with overwatering before. And/Or roots not getting enough oxygen.

So this time around I got those fabrique pots (smart grow pots or something) for 20L (this is about 6 gallons in imerial units) put the medium there.
One is only coco, the other is coco +20% or so perlite. rinsed them and all so they were soaking wet.
The dried for 2-3 days while I was getting my seeds (both auto) I put em there, added some water with my minerals on top of them (just a little though) they sprouted and all, since they sprouted it's been about 10 days and in that time I only watered them once with about 200-300ml, that was about 2 days ago and the soil was dry for 5cm (2inch) in.
And while all this time they've been growing quite good(the best I had I might add) I am worrying of missing wattering, but at the same time I am paranoid of overwatering as I did before.
Got any good tips? Or maybe some advice on how to judge if I should water based on plant condition?
my theory right now is that the plants keep growing roots that grow into wet medium so that's why they've been Ok, and if what they tell about roots being twice as deep as the plant is tall is true then the roots definetly have access to moisture.

So yeah, anyone got any tips for paranoid overwaterer.
Shit Shittingfuck - Sat, 18 Aug 2018 21:35:44 EST ID:ol/Sob4l No.146271 Ignore Report Quick Reply
watering is the trickiest part because you cant look it up in a book

size of the plant
size of the pot
soil type and fraction

something you have to develop a feel for

Leaves dying, what's happening? by Phoebe Givingham - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:29:10 EST ID:7XvOeivC No.146257 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Any ideas what causes this? It's almost exclusively the lower leaves doing this and some lowest small flowering branches nodding off or browning and dying but they are like 3 feet from the lights anyway.
The monsters are about 5 feet tall so obviously light penetration in the lowest levels is slim.

Been some 2 weeks in flower counting from first pistils.
Hydroponic, using bloom:micro in 2:1 ratio, EC around 1.3-1.5, but it keeps rising so I'm going down to 1 slowly. Doesn't seem to be nute burn though.
Using liquid silicon occasionally at 1 ml/litre. Sometimes adding hydrogen peroxide 1 ml/litre tops. Using top max 2-4 ml/l.
PH fluctuates approximately between 5.7-6.5 depending on adding new water etc.
Temps may be a little high but not super overkill. There is colder intake blowing under the canopy at almost ground level. Not sure if too cold.
2 posts and 1 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:36:26 EST ID:4RDjjsVj No.146260 Ignore Report Quick Reply
nvm im high good luck disregard second post
Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:54:55 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146261 Ignore Report Quick Reply
looks like phosphorus deficiency.

Maybe your plant is so big it needs even more phosphorus.
But I am noob so you probably should disregard my guess work.
Cornelius Findleham - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 21:40:49 EST ID:3cvBQsis No.146265 Ignore Report Quick Reply
that leaf on the right has spider mite damage all over it

most basic question possible by Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:14:26 EST ID:eEq8QAy8 No.146238 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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is there an unwritten rule about spacing when growing cannabis? can plants be too close together? you obviously want them to have enough room to grow to their maximum potential but beyond that, do they need additional space?
Cornelius Begglegold - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:58:31 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146239 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Oh yes. I made this mistake this year with my first outdoor grow, planted my seedlings only 4 feet apart. The result was one plant that grew into a 4x4 and 6 foot tall monster hogging all the sunlight from the remaining plants which suffered from the shading but still tried to grow into the big one. I was able to train the shaded plants to grow outward so that they can get more sun, but they could have done a lot better with some more spacing.

Now indoors is a different story, with a bigger space you find yourself needing a better light source so more space isn't always necessarily better there.
Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 22:23:31 EST ID:eEq8QAy8 No.146240 Ignore Report Quick Reply
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thanks for the response and valuable information. let me know if I have this correct: outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time, and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources?
Cornelius Begglegold - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:27:35 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146251 Ignore Report Quick Reply
>outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time

Thats one way to look at it. You already have the most powerful light source available: the sun. So the more space you give your outdoor plants the more space they have to spread out and grow big without running into each other. I put my plants directly into the ground so there is no moving them, but if your plants are in pots obviously you can move them however they need.

>and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources?

I wouldn't say indoor lighting is better. Actually with indoor lighting limited in the amount of space you can use because your light source is smaller. The difference is that indoors you have control over your plants and when you want them to flower, so you can harvest a lot sooner than with outdoors. Whereas outdoors you are at the mercy of mother nature.

Help! by Beatrice Sunnerridge - Sat, 04 Aug 2018 13:50:17 EST ID:DS2FRIes No.146227 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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Am I royally fucked? Some of the burgeoning leaves have missing parts (it looks like tiny holes). I don't know whether it's a genetic defect or just mite eating them. Should I worry about it?
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Ernest Fanshaw - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 05:30:36 EST ID:DS2FRIes No.146229 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Are you sure? I didn't see any mites under the leaves.
Simon Gannerledge - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 00:47:51 EST ID:HwosKtR0 No.146232 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Is this a /crops/ meme?

>posts a picture of weed "whats wrong with my plant?"
>Yep its russet mites.
Priscilla Wabberfield - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:48:00 EST ID:niXwx21I No.146235 Ignore Report Quick Reply
By the way, it seems to be a quite puzzling problem. I've just checked out Grasscity and guess what? I'm not the only one who has been having it. But nobody has answers yet. https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/a-few-holes-in-a-leaf-no-sign-of-pests-withpics.415556/page-2
I also have roaches (yeah, it's a shame but I can't get rid of them for now). Can they possibly nibble at leaves?

LED burn or not by Alice Crennerpock - Thu, 26 Jul 2018 12:51:31 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146185 Ignore Report Reply Quick Reply
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I think I might have killed my plant with too much LED.

Had a plant growing under 7 5.5W bulbs and one 50W (All actual draw) at ~40cm height (15 inch)
It was doing fine, not great but good enough.
Then I got two more 50W leds and placed them on at the same heigh.
At which poing my plant basically stoped growing completly and the leaves started slowly turning yellow. I though it was because I overwatered it twice in a row(got almost 50% run off both times) and that's what caused leaves to yellow and stunt growth.
Then I planted new seed. it sprouted grew first two real leafs then they raised almost vertically and then they slowly started getting yellow too, like on the previous plant and it didnt grew one bit for about 5 days now. I did place it at about 60cm (23inch) heigh on the 2nd day or so but it didn't help

The space is 60cm by 60cm so about 0.36 m2 (3.87 square feet), medium is coco.

So, is it LED burn after all? Or some other combination of things?
If it's LED should I take out some LED's or put them higher?

pic is not mine but looks similarly, although mine were more yellow than brown.
4 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Phoebe Movingridge - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 09:36:39 EST ID:ePUTzbMD No.146224 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Once the roots fill the container, you're supposed to keep it wet. Treat coco as hydroponics and make sure you get runoff every watering. If you let the coco dry it'll start accumulating salts which in turn start to lock off nutrients, fuck up the pH and burn the plant.
Fuck Sinkinfoot - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 22:47:34 EST ID:5R5q7BKE No.146225 Ignore Report Quick Reply
New development, I meassured temps and it turned out to be at least 35C-40C inside.
it's usually cold as fuck where I live, so I was disregarding temps completly, but there has been a heatwave going on and it didn't help that those new 50W leds were actively cooled by fans.
Did some rearanging and shit and tried adding some cooling elements to the equasion, hoping to knock it down to atleast 29C, will check in the morning
Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:15:56 EST ID:+feR4wOL No.146237 Ignore Report Quick Reply
Bleaching has nothing to do with intensity and everything to do with missing spectral components. It only happens with those red/blue disco lights.
Full spectrum white LEDs don't have these problems, and they have become more efficient than the narrow spectrum ones in the past years.

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