Wots dis? View Thread Reply Hide Ian Duckcocke - Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:33:35 EST Ej9SKL55 No.145583 File: 1510605215565.jpg -(2331841B / 2.22MB, 3264x2448) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. This is growing in my garden bed. I’m from the Bay Area in California, and can’t find it anywhere online through description. Anyone can help? 2 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Beatrice Fozzlehone - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 10:26:32 EST 6BPwtRXz No.145602 Reply >>145583it might pop open later to spread spores and change appearance, this looks like an early stage >> Polly Sovinghetch - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:47:55 EST L6ga2OBW No.146296 Reply >>145583Incorporating a lot of woodchips in your soil or as a mulch invites fungus to break it down rather than bacteria due to the lignin. Be careful incorporating it into the soi - this will bind up your available nitrogen in the soil for a year or four depending on soil. But yeah i have a ton in my woodchip pile that's getting regular doses of urine go add nitrogen to help break down the high carbon woodchips. Takes time but it istays warm then converts to mycorrhiza and fungi after anaerobic bacteria end >> Henry Trotson - Mon, 03 Sep 2018 02:22:00 EST uA4MRYo6 No.146297 Reply >>145583Looks like a potential kill you dead slowly over a month with no cure very painfully - mushroom.
>> Beatrice Fozzlehone - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 10:26:32 EST 6BPwtRXz No.145602 Reply >>145583it might pop open later to spread spores and change appearance, this looks like an early stage
>> Polly Sovinghetch - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:47:55 EST L6ga2OBW No.146296 Reply >>145583Incorporating a lot of woodchips in your soil or as a mulch invites fungus to break it down rather than bacteria due to the lignin. Be careful incorporating it into the soi - this will bind up your available nitrogen in the soil for a year or four depending on soil. But yeah i have a ton in my woodchip pile that's getting regular doses of urine go add nitrogen to help break down the high carbon woodchips. Takes time but it istays warm then converts to mycorrhiza and fungi after anaerobic bacteria end
>> Henry Trotson - Mon, 03 Sep 2018 02:22:00 EST uA4MRYo6 No.146297 Reply >>145583Looks like a potential kill you dead slowly over a month with no cure very painfully - mushroom.
Spidermites View Thread Reply Hide sadam - Sat, 09 Sep 2017 19:32:42 EST 3L3KKG1u No.145319 File: 1504999962099.jpg -(244404B / 238.68KB, 2500x1875) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. So i have a mild spidermite infestation. Had some random himalayan seeds that i grew on my windowsill, so they are 3 midget mature plants with a small amount of leafs. They are now in the box. Only tiny tiny webs, but you can clearly see the spots where they eat the leaves. About half of the leafs on each plant are affected, the lower once the most. Already removed one set of the worst.Now this is a no budget grow, i live in poverty and realistically i cant order anything. i thought about apllying a spray mixture of soap, garlic and then possibly chili to get rid of them. i know people that say garlic repels them if grown as a companion plant. true ?sadly no pics of my own until now 6 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Cedric Billingman - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 09:58:20 EST +feR4wOL No.146276 Reply OP spidermites aren't fatal to the plants.Besides spritzing the plants with water to blast them away (which can reduce their population) just try to keep the temperature as low as possible and you will still get a half decent yield.The mites won't go away anyway.To completely get rid of mites you have to start over and sterilize the environment.Next time use properly store bought soil which won't contain mites. >> Molly Fuckingman - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:49:20 EST ol/Sob4l No.146280 Reply How come nobody is smoking plants with tobacco ?tobacco smoke is as efficient as any commercial bug sprayThere is a neet trick you can try to see how deadly it is, catch a fly in a glass and blow some cigarette smoke into the glass, the fly is dead in notime.found a youtube videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhzJjIw_sEc >> Cornelius Conkinfune - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 09:52:06 EST ePUTzbMD No.146295 Reply >>146274Spidermites adapt to poisons so you need to systematically use different chemicals. There is no one application solution that would completely destroy them.
>> Cedric Billingman - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 09:58:20 EST +feR4wOL No.146276 Reply OP spidermites aren't fatal to the plants.Besides spritzing the plants with water to blast them away (which can reduce their population) just try to keep the temperature as low as possible and you will still get a half decent yield.The mites won't go away anyway.To completely get rid of mites you have to start over and sterilize the environment.Next time use properly store bought soil which won't contain mites.
>> Molly Fuckingman - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:49:20 EST ol/Sob4l No.146280 Reply How come nobody is smoking plants with tobacco ?tobacco smoke is as efficient as any commercial bug sprayThere is a neet trick you can try to see how deadly it is, catch a fly in a glass and blow some cigarette smoke into the glass, the fly is dead in notime.found a youtube videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhzJjIw_sEc
>> Cornelius Conkinfune - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 09:52:06 EST ePUTzbMD No.146295 Reply >>146274Spidermites adapt to poisons so you need to systematically use different chemicals. There is no one application solution that would completely destroy them.
Spider mites? What's happening =( View Thread Reply Hide newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 11:59:10 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146241 File: 1534175950850.jpg -(74684B / 72.93KB, 998x1920) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I've been using neem oil for about two weeks now, once every three days before lights out. The last living mite I saw was about three days ago, I sprayed them again last night. 10 posts and 5 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Esther Feblingridge - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:08:05 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146253 Reply >>146241It looks like a lack of light. Its internodes are few and far apart. The leaves look pathetic like they can't photosynthesize properly. Nutes are there as it's burning but not enough light to use em.Give it more light. Ventilation for more light. Problem solved. >> newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:26:58 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146254 Reply >>146253think the nutrients are burning the leaves??? see the webs and holes on the leaves? I'm at 4250 Lumens currently, I assumed it would be enough. Also it has tons of ventilation and fresh air, though I've been cooling my grow room because I heard it makes it harder for the mites to reproduce. >> Jack Garringstock - Wed, 29 Aug 2018 18:19:42 EST ygZ8n1y5 No.146289 Reply >>146252Yes I think that's correct.
>> Esther Feblingridge - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:08:05 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146253 Reply >>146241It looks like a lack of light. Its internodes are few and far apart. The leaves look pathetic like they can't photosynthesize properly. Nutes are there as it's burning but not enough light to use em.Give it more light. Ventilation for more light. Problem solved.
>> newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:26:58 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146254 Reply >>146253think the nutrients are burning the leaves??? see the webs and holes on the leaves? I'm at 4250 Lumens currently, I assumed it would be enough. Also it has tons of ventilation and fresh air, though I've been cooling my grow room because I heard it makes it harder for the mites to reproduce.
>> Jack Garringstock - Wed, 29 Aug 2018 18:19:42 EST ygZ8n1y5 No.146289 Reply >>146252Yes I think that's correct.
5 out of 16 seeds sprouted View Thread Reply Hide Archie Blythewill - Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:33:51 EST oo8zzN+e No.145905 File: 1523990031618.png -(123510B / 120.62KB, 500x479) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I planted 16 seeds about a week ago from a reliable breeder.In a few days, 3 popped. In a few more days, 2 more popped. Now it's been nothing for a few days. Am I being too impatient, my time perspective off, or should I lightly unbury and see if they popped a tap root or will that do more damage than good and just let them sit and if they make it they make it but if they aren't gonna make it nothing I do will help? 17 posts and 5 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Eugene Sellercocke - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:05:23 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146264 Reply >>146263Yeah, I wanted to add that this is just my personal anecdote and doesn't mean shit in grand scheme, since, yeah, maybe it was the seeds, maybe I did something wrong, maybe storage issues by me or place I bought it from (although those were just regular seeds I always buy), but forgot.Planting them already sprouted was pretty cool, but imo streight to substrate is much simpler. I just put those fuckers horizontally-ish, cover them up, add some water, couple days later, bam, a little green bastard. >> Polly Bodgefield - Thu, 23 Aug 2018 18:57:34 EST 9u92qZyz No.146281 Reply >>146262>I do not understand why people keep advising this paper towel method.Exactly! I tried it twice and both times failed miserably. I've had 100% success with just digging a tiny finger sized hole in the soil about 2 inches deep and watering every now and then. >> Frederick Worthingwell - Sat, 25 Aug 2018 02:36:15 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146284 Reply >>146281Amen.On my last grow I used 20L bags, and since the substrate was already wet, since I usually rinse it thoroughly in case the manufacturer didn't give a shit about salt and other contaminants. I just added some water, with 1/2 - 1/3 the usual nutes, once when planting, and a tiny bit the next day. And that's it, and I probably could've skiped the second watering, the substrate felt wet enough.Best plant I've had growing so far.
>> Eugene Sellercocke - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:05:23 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146264 Reply >>146263Yeah, I wanted to add that this is just my personal anecdote and doesn't mean shit in grand scheme, since, yeah, maybe it was the seeds, maybe I did something wrong, maybe storage issues by me or place I bought it from (although those were just regular seeds I always buy), but forgot.Planting them already sprouted was pretty cool, but imo streight to substrate is much simpler. I just put those fuckers horizontally-ish, cover them up, add some water, couple days later, bam, a little green bastard.
>> Polly Bodgefield - Thu, 23 Aug 2018 18:57:34 EST 9u92qZyz No.146281 Reply >>146262>I do not understand why people keep advising this paper towel method.Exactly! I tried it twice and both times failed miserably. I've had 100% success with just digging a tiny finger sized hole in the soil about 2 inches deep and watering every now and then.
>> Frederick Worthingwell - Sat, 25 Aug 2018 02:36:15 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146284 Reply >>146281Amen.On my last grow I used 20L bags, and since the substrate was already wet, since I usually rinse it thoroughly in case the manufacturer didn't give a shit about salt and other contaminants. I just added some water, with 1/2 - 1/3 the usual nutes, once when planting, and a tiny bit the next day. And that's it, and I probably could've skiped the second watering, the substrate felt wet enough.Best plant I've had growing so far.
Retard plant View Thread Reply Hide Matilda Blizzlehall - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 04:26:42 EST aWb7Y/oB No.146278 File: 1534840002243.jpg -(3352629B / 3.20MB, 2448x3264) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I have a gorilla glue autoflower here with (probably) a wide range of problems but am not sure how to proceed.It's at 16 and a half weeks from seed, however while LSTing about 2 weeks into flower I accidentally snapped the head off. This led to it growing really wide and fat.During most of the summer the temp was sitting at 32c, obviously too high but nothing else I could do. I also found some bugs on it during the summer, however they appear to not be there any more as far as I can see. The other plants in the tent were not affected by any of these problems and are doing just fine.The actual problem I have is although the buds are fat, the pistils don't seem to be turning orange. Some are, but it seems to be stalling / going very slow.Leaves were yellowing as if it were finishing, but some have dried up with some dark spots on them. Just wondering if it will actually finish or if I should just call it and cut it down. The buds are sufficiently fat, it just doesn't look fully finished.
russet mites View Thread Reply Hide Oliver Waffingtig - Wed, 13 Jun 2018 23:10:30 EST uBY6Q3qf No.146058 File: 1528945830876.jpg -(313062B / 305.72KB, 650x862) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. russet mite discussion:what to do about them?how to prevent them? 23 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ef1tcmWF No.146230 Reply >>146226I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high. Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated. My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 gallon bucket with a couple of air stones in the bottom and a couple of aquarium air pumps. Root oxygen levels are important which means you need to consider two things, water temperature and water aeration. The bubble stones will aerate the root chamber and eventually your roots will grow down through the damp perlite and hit the water itself at which point you get a real boom in growth. The roots form clusters that plunge down into the water chamber and if the plant is given adequate light it will respond with much faster growth than any other method I'm aware of. One of the tips I've found that is most important but is easily overlooked is that the closer you can get your lights to your plants, the more intense the radiation is when it hits the plant and the more energy it transfers. The plant itself can tolerate high temperatures in the 90's or even above for some strains and will actually grow the fastest and most vigorously in high temperatures, right up to the point that the enzymes begin to degrade from high temps at which point you'll see a big drop off in growth. This means you don't want your lights to be so close that they burn your plants, but if you have adequate airflow and light cooling, you can benefit by increasing the efficiency of the watts you're paying the electricity company for by moving the lights closer to the plants. I think that many lower wattage, cooler running LEDs or Flourescent bulbs spread out that can cover a large area and be placed close to the canopy is a much better choice than a single high wattage, high temp light placed above the same area at a farther distance. The coverage is better and the intensity per watt is better with more lights at a lower wattage each spread out and put closer. Pay attention to the spectrum of the bulbs you're going to get though and look at cannabis' active use spectrum that will tell you what spectrum you should be targeting. The root chamber must be kept cooler than the plant itself though. Some sort of refrigeration is optimal, but insulation and shielding from the light above can be adequate. >> Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ef1tcmWF No.146231 Reply >>146230BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that. Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer as a result. It has to be kept precise and never change but if you do this it's surprisingly easy and gives insane growth and yields. >> Charlotte Blarrywill - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:27:06 EST B0kZyQRI No.146277 Reply >>146231Thats a pretty great guide to growing indoor hydro you packed into those two posts. Good to know your plants turned out nice too, on the topic of pushing maximum light, I'd love to see someone take hyrdoponic growing outdoor and really push things under sunlight, possibly using reflectors of some sort to add to the intensity of the light. Very few people run anything near solar intensity lighting inside and those that do only run it at that intensity near the tops of the buds. Outdoor hydro could be the best way to combine maximum light intensity with max nutes.
>> Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ef1tcmWF No.146230 Reply >>146226I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high. Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated. My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 gallon bucket with a couple of air stones in the bottom and a couple of aquarium air pumps. Root oxygen levels are important which means you need to consider two things, water temperature and water aeration. The bubble stones will aerate the root chamber and eventually your roots will grow down through the damp perlite and hit the water itself at which point you get a real boom in growth. The roots form clusters that plunge down into the water chamber and if the plant is given adequate light it will respond with much faster growth than any other method I'm aware of. One of the tips I've found that is most important but is easily overlooked is that the closer you can get your lights to your plants, the more intense the radiation is when it hits the plant and the more energy it transfers. The plant itself can tolerate high temperatures in the 90's or even above for some strains and will actually grow the fastest and most vigorously in high temperatures, right up to the point that the enzymes begin to degrade from high temps at which point you'll see a big drop off in growth. This means you don't want your lights to be so close that they burn your plants, but if you have adequate airflow and light cooling, you can benefit by increasing the efficiency of the watts you're paying the electricity company for by moving the lights closer to the plants. I think that many lower wattage, cooler running LEDs or Flourescent bulbs spread out that can cover a large area and be placed close to the canopy is a much better choice than a single high wattage, high temp light placed above the same area at a farther distance. The coverage is better and the intensity per watt is better with more lights at a lower wattage each spread out and put closer. Pay attention to the spectrum of the bulbs you're going to get though and look at cannabis' active use spectrum that will tell you what spectrum you should be targeting. The root chamber must be kept cooler than the plant itself though. Some sort of refrigeration is optimal, but insulation and shielding from the light above can be adequate.
>> Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ef1tcmWF No.146231 Reply >>146230BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that. Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer as a result. It has to be kept precise and never change but if you do this it's surprisingly easy and gives insane growth and yields.
>> Charlotte Blarrywill - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:27:06 EST B0kZyQRI No.146277 Reply >>146231Thats a pretty great guide to growing indoor hydro you packed into those two posts. Good to know your plants turned out nice too, on the topic of pushing maximum light, I'd love to see someone take hyrdoponic growing outdoor and really push things under sunlight, possibly using reflectors of some sort to add to the intensity of the light. Very few people run anything near solar intensity lighting inside and those that do only run it at that intensity near the tops of the buds. Outdoor hydro could be the best way to combine maximum light intensity with max nutes.
Liquid culture ready? View Thread Reply Hide Eliza Wankinstock - Tue, 17 Jul 2018 10:34:19 EST zoxq6Z04 No.146159 File: 1531838059605.png -(3032637B / 2.89MB, 1432x1746) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I made this a week ago and Its my first timeI don't know if I can tell if this liquid culture has well,.. cultured >what do you think 4 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:54:32 EST vdtZzyP7 No.146222 Reply >>146221and the dark cloudy stuff its actually kinda white up close but since its denser then the water around It and shadows itself >> Fanny Chinderham - Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:35:42 EST 7fhWy1tg No.146267 Reply >>146159 Only way to find out is a test batch of substrate/agar as someone else said. Best of luck >> James Pummledale - Sun, 19 Aug 2018 00:26:07 EST wpPDINo8 No.146272 Reply >>146221A magnetic stirrer is an invaluable LC tool.
>> Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:54:32 EST vdtZzyP7 No.146222 Reply >>146221and the dark cloudy stuff its actually kinda white up close but since its denser then the water around It and shadows itself
>> Fanny Chinderham - Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:35:42 EST 7fhWy1tg No.146267 Reply >>146159 Only way to find out is a test batch of substrate/agar as someone else said. Best of luck
>> James Pummledale - Sun, 19 Aug 2018 00:26:07 EST wpPDINo8 No.146272 Reply >>146221A magnetic stirrer is an invaluable LC tool.
Watering View Thread Reply Hide Caroline Wibbermere - Tue, 14 Aug 2018 18:20:37 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146255 File: 1534285237519.jpg -(34938B / 34.12KB, 600x346) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I had problems with overwatering before. And/Or roots not getting enough oxygen.So this time around I got those fabrique pots (smart grow pots or something) for 20L (this is about 6 gallons in imerial units) put the medium there.One is only coco, the other is coco +20% or so perlite. rinsed them and all so they were soaking wet.The dried for 2-3 days while I was getting my seeds (both auto) I put em there, added some water with my minerals on top of them (just a little though) they sprouted and all, since they sprouted it's been about 10 days and in that time I only watered them once with about 200-300ml, that was about 2 days ago and the soil was dry for 5cm (2inch) in. And while all this time they've been growing quite good(the best I had I might add) I am worrying of missing wattering, but at the same time I am paranoid of overwatering as I did before.Got any good tips? Or maybe some advice on how to judge if I should water based on plant condition?my theory right now is that the plants keep growing roots that grow into wet medium so that's why they've been Ok, and if what they tell about roots being twice as deep as the plant is tall is true then the roots definetly have access to moisture.So yeah, anyone got any tips for paranoid overwaterer. >> Shit Shittingfuck - Sat, 18 Aug 2018 21:35:44 EST ol/Sob4l No.146271 Reply watering is the trickiest part because you cant look it up in a booksize of the plantsize of the potsoil type and fractiontemphumidity lightsomething you have to develop a feel for
>> Shit Shittingfuck - Sat, 18 Aug 2018 21:35:44 EST ol/Sob4l No.146271 Reply watering is the trickiest part because you cant look it up in a booksize of the plantsize of the potsoil type and fractiontemphumidity lightsomething you have to develop a feel for
Leaves dying, what's happening? View Thread Reply Hide Phoebe Givingham - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:29:10 EST 7XvOeivC No.146257 File: 1534314550153.jpg -(639939B / 624.94KB, 1804x814) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Any ideas what causes this? It's almost exclusively the lower leaves doing this and some lowest small flowering branches nodding off or browning and dying but they are like 3 feet from the lights anyway.The monsters are about 5 feet tall so obviously light penetration in the lowest levels is slim.Been some 2 weeks in flower counting from first pistils.Hydroponic, using bloom:micro in 2:1 ratio, EC around 1.3-1.5, but it keeps rising so I'm going down to 1 slowly. Doesn't seem to be nute burn though.Using liquid silicon occasionally at 1 ml/litre. Sometimes adding hydrogen peroxide 1 ml/litre tops. Using top max 2-4 ml/l.PH fluctuates approximately between 5.7-6.5 depending on adding new water etc.Temps may be a little high but not super overkill. There is colder intake blowing under the canopy at almost ground level. Not sure if too cold. 2 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:36:26 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146260 Reply >>146259nvm im high good luck disregard second post >> Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:54:55 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146261 Reply >>146257looks like phosphorus deficiency.Maybe your plant is so big it needs even more phosphorus.But I am noob so you probably should disregard my guess work. >> Cornelius Findleham - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 21:40:49 EST 3cvBQsis No.146265 Reply >>146259that leaf on the right has spider mite damage all over it
>> newgrowth2018 - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:36:26 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146260 Reply >>146259nvm im high good luck disregard second post
>> Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:54:55 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146261 Reply >>146257looks like phosphorus deficiency.Maybe your plant is so big it needs even more phosphorus.But I am noob so you probably should disregard my guess work.
>> Cornelius Findleham - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 21:40:49 EST 3cvBQsis No.146265 Reply >>146259that leaf on the right has spider mite damage all over it
most basic question possible View Thread Reply Hide Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:14:26 EST eEq8QAy8 No.146238 File: 1534122866242.jpg -(99707B / 97.37KB, 861x1170) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. is there an unwritten rule about spacing when growing cannabis? can plants be too close together? you obviously want them to have enough room to grow to their maximum potential but beyond that, do they need additional space? >> Cornelius Begglegold - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:58:31 EST HwosKtR0 No.146239 Reply >>146238Oh yes. I made this mistake this year with my first outdoor grow, planted my seedlings only 4 feet apart. The result was one plant that grew into a 4x4 and 6 foot tall monster hogging all the sunlight from the remaining plants which suffered from the shading but still tried to grow into the big one. I was able to train the shaded plants to grow outward so that they can get more sun, but they could have done a lot better with some more spacing.Now indoors is a different story, with a bigger space you find yourself needing a better light source so more space isn't always necessarily better there. >> Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 22:23:31 EST eEq8QAy8 No.146240 Reply 1534127011242.jpg -(1285409B / 1.23MB, 2250x3000) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. >>146239thanks for the response and valuable information. let me know if I have this correct: outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time, and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources? >> Cornelius Begglegold - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:27:35 EST HwosKtR0 No.146251 Reply >>146240>outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of timeThats one way to look at it. You already have the most powerful light source available: the sun. So the more space you give your outdoor plants the more space they have to spread out and grow big without running into each other. I put my plants directly into the ground so there is no moving them, but if your plants are in pots obviously you can move them however they need.>and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources? I wouldn't say indoor lighting is better. Actually with indoor lighting limited in the amount of space you can use because your light source is smaller. The difference is that indoors you have control over your plants and when you want them to flower, so you can harvest a lot sooner than with outdoors. Whereas outdoors you are at the mercy of mother nature.
>> Cornelius Begglegold - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 21:58:31 EST HwosKtR0 No.146239 Reply >>146238Oh yes. I made this mistake this year with my first outdoor grow, planted my seedlings only 4 feet apart. The result was one plant that grew into a 4x4 and 6 foot tall monster hogging all the sunlight from the remaining plants which suffered from the shading but still tried to grow into the big one. I was able to train the shaded plants to grow outward so that they can get more sun, but they could have done a lot better with some more spacing.Now indoors is a different story, with a bigger space you find yourself needing a better light source so more space isn't always necessarily better there.
>> Hannah Blackstone - Sun, 12 Aug 2018 22:23:31 EST eEq8QAy8 No.146240 Reply 1534127011242.jpg -(1285409B / 1.23MB, 2250x3000) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. >>146239thanks for the response and valuable information. let me know if I have this correct: outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of time, and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources?
>> Cornelius Begglegold - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 13:27:35 EST HwosKtR0 No.146251 Reply >>146240>outdoor growing requires more space to grow a larger plant over a longer period of timeThats one way to look at it. You already have the most powerful light source available: the sun. So the more space you give your outdoor plants the more space they have to spread out and grow big without running into each other. I put my plants directly into the ground so there is no moving them, but if your plants are in pots obviously you can move them however they need.>and growing indoors takes less space but plants grow faster due to better light sources? I wouldn't say indoor lighting is better. Actually with indoor lighting limited in the amount of space you can use because your light source is smaller. The difference is that indoors you have control over your plants and when you want them to flower, so you can harvest a lot sooner than with outdoors. Whereas outdoors you are at the mercy of mother nature.
Help! View Thread Reply Hide Beatrice Sunnerridge - Sat, 04 Aug 2018 13:50:17 EST DS2FRIes No.146227 File: 1533405017490.jpg -(257720B / 251.68KB, 700x933) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Am I royally fucked? Some of the burgeoning leaves have missing parts (it looks like tiny holes). I don't know whether it's a genetic defect or just mite eating them. Should I worry about it? 1 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Ernest Fanshaw - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 05:30:36 EST DS2FRIes No.146229 Reply >>146228Are you sure? I didn't see any mites under the leaves. >> Simon Gannerledge - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 00:47:51 EST HwosKtR0 No.146232 Reply >>146228Is this a /crops/ meme?>posts a picture of weed "whats wrong with my plant?">Yep its russet mites. >> Priscilla Wabberfield - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:48:00 EST niXwx21I No.146235 Reply >>146227By the way, it seems to be a quite puzzling problem. I've just checked out Grasscity and guess what? I'm not the only one who has been having it. But nobody has answers yet. https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/a-few-holes-in-a-leaf-no-sign-of-pests-withpics.415556/page-2I also have roaches (yeah, it's a shame but I can't get rid of them for now). Can they possibly nibble at leaves?
>> Ernest Fanshaw - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 05:30:36 EST DS2FRIes No.146229 Reply >>146228Are you sure? I didn't see any mites under the leaves.
>> Simon Gannerledge - Fri, 10 Aug 2018 00:47:51 EST HwosKtR0 No.146232 Reply >>146228Is this a /crops/ meme?>posts a picture of weed "whats wrong with my plant?">Yep its russet mites.
>> Priscilla Wabberfield - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:48:00 EST niXwx21I No.146235 Reply >>146227By the way, it seems to be a quite puzzling problem. I've just checked out Grasscity and guess what? I'm not the only one who has been having it. But nobody has answers yet. https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/a-few-holes-in-a-leaf-no-sign-of-pests-withpics.415556/page-2I also have roaches (yeah, it's a shame but I can't get rid of them for now). Can they possibly nibble at leaves?
LED burn or not View Thread Reply Hide Alice Crennerpock - Thu, 26 Jul 2018 12:51:31 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146185 File: 1532623891347.jpg -(162990B / 159.17KB, 900x1200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I think I might have killed my plant with too much LED.Had a plant growing under 7 5.5W bulbs and one 50W (All actual draw) at ~40cm height (15 inch)It was doing fine, not great but good enough.Then I got two more 50W leds and placed them on at the same heigh.At which poing my plant basically stoped growing completly and the leaves started slowly turning yellow. I though it was because I overwatered it twice in a row(got almost 50% run off both times) and that's what caused leaves to yellow and stunt growth.Then I planted new seed. it sprouted grew first two real leafs then they raised almost vertically and then they slowly started getting yellow too, like on the previous plant and it didnt grew one bit for about 5 days now. I did place it at about 60cm (23inch) heigh on the 2nd day or so but it didn't helpThe space is 60cm by 60cm so about 0.36 m2 (3.87 square feet), medium is coco.So, is it LED burn after all? Or some other combination of things?If it's LED should I take out some LED's or put them higher?pic is not mine but looks similarly, although mine were more yellow than brown. 4 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Phoebe Movingridge - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 09:36:39 EST ePUTzbMD No.146224 Reply >>146203Once the roots fill the container, you're supposed to keep it wet. Treat coco as hydroponics and make sure you get runoff every watering. If you let the coco dry it'll start accumulating salts which in turn start to lock off nutrients, fuck up the pH and burn the plant. >> Fuck Sinkinfoot - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 22:47:34 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146225 Reply New development, I meassured temps and it turned out to be at least 35C-40C inside. it's usually cold as fuck where I live, so I was disregarding temps completly, but there has been a heatwave going on and it didn't help that those new 50W leds were actively cooled by fans.Did some rearanging and shit and tried adding some cooling elements to the equasion, hoping to knock it down to atleast 29C, will check in the morning >> Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:15:56 EST +feR4wOL No.146237 Reply >>146204Bleaching has nothing to do with intensity and everything to do with missing spectral components. It only happens with those red/blue disco lights.Full spectrum white LEDs don't have these problems, and they have become more efficient than the narrow spectrum ones in the past years.
>> Phoebe Movingridge - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 09:36:39 EST ePUTzbMD No.146224 Reply >>146203Once the roots fill the container, you're supposed to keep it wet. Treat coco as hydroponics and make sure you get runoff every watering. If you let the coco dry it'll start accumulating salts which in turn start to lock off nutrients, fuck up the pH and burn the plant.
>> Fuck Sinkinfoot - Fri, 03 Aug 2018 22:47:34 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146225 Reply New development, I meassured temps and it turned out to be at least 35C-40C inside. it's usually cold as fuck where I live, so I was disregarding temps completly, but there has been a heatwave going on and it didn't help that those new 50W leds were actively cooled by fans.Did some rearanging and shit and tried adding some cooling elements to the equasion, hoping to knock it down to atleast 29C, will check in the morning
>> Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:15:56 EST +feR4wOL No.146237 Reply >>146204Bleaching has nothing to do with intensity and everything to do with missing spectral components. It only happens with those red/blue disco lights.Full spectrum white LEDs don't have these problems, and they have become more efficient than the narrow spectrum ones in the past years.
LED lumens per cubic feet? View Thread Reply Hide Sidney Dodgetag - Thu, 19 Jul 2018 20:52:54 EST L9qbicZu No.146166 File: 1532047974549.jpg -(239887B / 234.26KB, 961x1269) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. I have a tent that is 41 cubic feet. I have 29k lumens from my LED lights. Will this be optimal for that tent space? I don't care about heat, just whether that lumens per cubic foot is good with LEDs. Does anybody have an idea or does it entirely depend on the LED spectrum? 2 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Oliver Sickleterk - Mon, 23 Jul 2018 17:39:38 EST +feR4wOL No.146178 Reply Oh you americans>>146167Actually it's even half of that. 400W/sqm is considered optimal.You can go higher, and get something out of it but you'd have to utilize some vertical growing techniques like V-sog, scrog/lst.LED spectrum wise, get warm white 2700-3500k low cri high efficient LEDs should be at 160-200 lumen/watt (yes 200, check out samsung linear led modules)These are better than any possible red/blue light at this point. Don't buy the purple crap, nobody in the greenhouse industry uses them. >> Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:57:39 EST B0kZyQRI No.146219 Reply >>146178The sun puts down about 1100watts per square meter. Does it for free too. If you could control the heat and pay the power bill at that density of light indoors the plants could almost certainly handle it. Maybe if you lived in Barrow, Alaska, kept your tent outdoors during midwinter and powered it with stolen crude oil. >> Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:09:43 EST +feR4wOL No.146236 Reply >>146219Most of the suns energy isn't used by the plants. And that 1kw /sqm figure is true for high noon near the equator with a clear sky, so...Anyway that 400W / sqm figure is a general ballpark figure for indoor and it has some caveats.That was true for HPS light (if you use highly efficient leds it's actually a little bit lower even) and it is meant to get the most out of a particular light meaning:If you give it more space the quality of the product will suffer, if you give it less space the yield won't be as high.Of course if you want to get the most out of a particular space you go with more light intensity.1000W / sqm is still too much (not to say it won't work you are just wasting power and making it hard on yourself.) 600W / sqm if you want to get the most out of an area. Any more again you will be wasting power and it will be harder to keep cool.
>> Oliver Sickleterk - Mon, 23 Jul 2018 17:39:38 EST +feR4wOL No.146178 Reply Oh you americans>>146167Actually it's even half of that. 400W/sqm is considered optimal.You can go higher, and get something out of it but you'd have to utilize some vertical growing techniques like V-sog, scrog/lst.LED spectrum wise, get warm white 2700-3500k low cri high efficient LEDs should be at 160-200 lumen/watt (yes 200, check out samsung linear led modules)These are better than any possible red/blue light at this point. Don't buy the purple crap, nobody in the greenhouse industry uses them.
>> Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:57:39 EST B0kZyQRI No.146219 Reply >>146178The sun puts down about 1100watts per square meter. Does it for free too. If you could control the heat and pay the power bill at that density of light indoors the plants could almost certainly handle it. Maybe if you lived in Barrow, Alaska, kept your tent outdoors during midwinter and powered it with stolen crude oil.
>> Nell Buvinghood - Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:09:43 EST +feR4wOL No.146236 Reply >>146219Most of the suns energy isn't used by the plants. And that 1kw /sqm figure is true for high noon near the equator with a clear sky, so...Anyway that 400W / sqm figure is a general ballpark figure for indoor and it has some caveats.That was true for HPS light (if you use highly efficient leds it's actually a little bit lower even) and it is meant to get the most out of a particular light meaning:If you give it more space the quality of the product will suffer, if you give it less space the yield won't be as high.Of course if you want to get the most out of a particular space you go with more light intensity.1000W / sqm is still too much (not to say it won't work you are just wasting power and making it hard on yourself.) 600W / sqm if you want to get the most out of an area. Any more again you will be wasting power and it will be harder to keep cool.
2nd grow, im very new to this. View Thread Reply Hide Jarvis Sesslehatch - Wed, 30 May 2018 06:57:50 EST rkA5IDmJ No.146030 File: 1527677870838.jpg -(275034B / 268.59KB, 1280x720) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. So i have 3 plants over here and theyre all in 40l pots, two of them are getting these discolorations, besides that they look very healthy. Should i be worried? 9 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read. >> Fucking Duckham - Wed, 11 Jul 2018 22:56:17 EST BXQQW9TG No.146126 Reply >>146054Hahaha shut the fuck up >> William Woffingforth - Wed, 01 Aug 2018 07:47:18 EST I5lXmNdy No.146215 Reply >>146067Just found this on one of my plants. what did you do to get rid of them? >> Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:41:31 EST B0kZyQRI No.146217 Reply >>146215If its just one spot you can just remove that leaf and nip it in the bud that way a lot of the time.
>> Fucking Duckham - Wed, 11 Jul 2018 22:56:17 EST BXQQW9TG No.146126 Reply >>146054Hahaha shut the fuck up
>> William Woffingforth - Wed, 01 Aug 2018 07:47:18 EST I5lXmNdy No.146215 Reply >>146067Just found this on one of my plants. what did you do to get rid of them?
>> Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:41:31 EST B0kZyQRI No.146217 Reply >>146215If its just one spot you can just remove that leaf and nip it in the bud that way a lot of the time.
