Leave these fields empty (spam trap):
You can leave this blank to post anonymously, or you can create a Tripcode by using the format Name#Password
[i]Italic Text[/i]
[b]Bold Text[/b]
[spoiler]Spoiler Text[/spoiler]
>Highlight/Quote Text
[pre]Preformatted & Monospace Text[/pre]
[super]Superset Text[/super]
[sub]Subset Text[/sub]
1. Numbered lists become ordered lists
* Bulleted lists become unordered lists


Harm Reduction Notes for the COVID-19 Pandemic

Balcony grow

View Thread Reply
- Sun, 30 Sep 2018 05:20:21 EST x/AVzvf6 No.146347
File: 1538299221893.jpg -(59602B / 58.21KB, 405x720) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Balcony grow
So after a lot of issues my plant has finally been growing these small buds and it feels like it's getting close to harvest time. How much longer should i wait? the temperatures outside are skipping between 16 and 20°C and i'm afraid it's getting to cold for my little buddy.

Plant is Critical from Dinafem btw
Cyril Duffingshaw - Sun, 30 Sep 2018 06:37:10 EST HwosKtR0 No.146348 Reply
16°C too cold for weed? Its not usually a problem. Under 10 degrees is where you can start to have issues with slowed growth but damage to the plants won't occur until you get closer to 0.

That being said from your picture it does actually look like you are close to harvest. How are your trichomes looking?
Jenny Bunwater - Sun, 30 Sep 2018 06:53:11 EST x/AVzvf6 No.146349 Reply

Oh nice, always had the idea in my head that it needs to be 20°C+
Trichomes are starting to get a bit cloudy, most of them are still quite clear though

/crops/ pics

View Thread Reply
- Tue, 04 Sep 2018 00:51:03 EST 3cvBQsis No.146298
File: 1536036663221.jpg -(101927B / 99.54KB, 720x608) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. /crops/ pics
there had got to be more content in this category than this one image
Henry Closhworth - Thu, 20 Sep 2018 23:57:22 EST B0kZyQRI No.146319 Reply
1537502242735.jpg -(112613B / 109.97KB, 600x926) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
User is currently banned from all boards

Some sort of problem

View Thread Reply
- Sat, 29 Sep 2018 08:20:00 EST vrKpl0HC No.146340
File: 1538223600370.jpg -(718189B / 701.36KB, 1000x1333) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Some sort of problem
Do my plants look healthy for 29 days of flowering? (not exactly 29 days, actually - I just switched to 12/12 27 days ago). Also is it OK that dozens of the lower leaves started to wither and fall off since my plants started to bloom? Should I worry about it or it's a natural thing?
Eliza Dommerbury - Sat, 29 Sep 2018 08:27:02 EST vrKpl0HC No.146341 Reply
sorry for the second thread. Don't know how to delete it.
Jenny Bunwater - Sun, 30 Sep 2018 05:17:05 EST x/AVzvf6 No.146346 Reply
I don't know much about indoor growing but they look like very happy little plants!
Also leaves turning yellow and falling off is normal, it's sucking out nutrients to bulk up the bud

LED floodlights

View Thread Reply
- Tue, 18 Sep 2018 16:59:49 EST biz785N3 No.146315
File: 1537304389403.jpg -(5196B / 5.07KB, 250x250) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. LED floodlights
There's plenty of floodlights that have been approved for import that come with their own drivers, and prices seem to be well within the range of even the poorest growers. They often fall within the 3000-6000k temperature range, so in theory they're just as capable as COB kits.
I ordered 4 30W floodlights for around $40 in total, but I'm waiting for someone else to admit that they've tried it and hopefully offer some tips. If not, I'll post some updates once everything has been set up and the plants show some results.
Beatrice Hurringhug - Wed, 19 Sep 2018 18:51:44 EST ol/Sob4l No.146317 Reply
>in theory they're just as capable as COB kits.
They use the cheapest chinkshit in them
A brand led will smoke them hard probably x3 times the lumen per watt or more

Outdoor stealth growing

View Thread Reply
- Thu, 24 Aug 2017 08:49:06 EST utDXI+cU No.145188
File: 1503578946843.png -(1990921B / 1.90MB, 1200x717) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Outdoor stealth growing
Does anyone here grow gorilla style? Any Tips?
2 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read.
George Daffingwot - Fri, 25 Aug 2017 21:03:27 EST RNTWGAl1 No.145203 Reply
How do you know he meant guerrilla?

Maybe he wants to grow things hanging off trees like a fucking ape, you philistine.
Phoebe Blatherridge - Fri, 01 Sep 2017 19:49:43 EST qrcngZJg No.145284 Reply
1504309783877.png -(83985B / 82.02KB, 541x376) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.

UK outdoor

View Thread Reply
- Fri, 07 Sep 2018 20:55:15 EST HswHWEj2 No.146302
File: 1536368115957.jpg -(621464B / 606.90KB, 874x1156) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. UK outdoor
So ive had this outdoors since about May, i was thinking about chopping it on the 22nd and i was looking for any tips on the perfect dry and cure. Sorry for the bad photo
Rebecca Chunnersuck - Sat, 08 Sep 2018 04:27:17 EST aWb7Y/oB No.146303 Reply

How did it handle the heatwave? Looks good to me, I had an indoor plant completely ruined due to the heat
John Hommermot - Sat, 08 Sep 2018 17:18:13 EST HswHWEj2 No.146304 Reply
1536441493957.jpg -(133839B / 130.70KB, 960x720) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Yeah no probs , i moved it out the greenhouse. The good clear skies gave her some nice hours of sunshine, damn it was hot though.

I'll change up to a larger pot next time and improve the nutes but i feel that the UK weather just lacks sunshine hours for flower :(
Beatrice Bellybitch - Sun, 09 Sep 2018 03:38:39 EST 3cvBQsis No.146306 Reply
Looks nice and will probably look even nicer in 2 weeks, but leave it out as long as you dare. Its packing on more weight and more trichomes every day so calling the 22nd now might leave you with regrets when you're running out of the flower from this plant down the line, especially if there is good weather available after that. Even on a cloudy day the plants are still getting about 100 watts per square meter and they'll grow as long as the temperature is above about 15ºC or so. Just keep your eyes open for the signs of impending botrytis.
The best drying/least loss of flavor I saw last year was a friend of mine who grew somewhat terrible plants, but hung his whole plants to dry in an unheated shed outdoors towards then end of October and waited 3 weeks before putting it in jars. It ended up being a strange combination of ugly, but potent enough flower with great flavor.
nice cherub btw

Wots dis?

View Thread Reply
- Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:33:35 EST Ej9SKL55 No.145583
File: 1510605215565.jpg -(2331841B / 2.22MB, 3264x2448) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Wots dis?
This is growing in my garden bed. I’m from the Bay Area in California, and can’t find it anywhere online through description. Anyone can help?
2 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Beatrice Fozzlehone - Wed, 29 Nov 2017 10:26:32 EST 6BPwtRXz No.145602 Reply
it might pop open later to spread spores and change appearance, this looks like an early stage
Polly Sovinghetch - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:47:55 EST L6ga2OBW No.146296 Reply
Incorporating a lot of woodchips in your soil or as a mulch invites fungus to break it down rather than bacteria due to the lignin. Be careful incorporating it into the soi - this will bind up your available nitrogen in the soil for a year or four depending on soil. But yeah i have a ton in my woodchip pile that's getting regular doses of urine go add nitrogen to help break down the high carbon woodchips. Takes time but it istays warm then converts to mycorrhiza and fungi after anaerobic bacteria end
Henry Trotson - Mon, 03 Sep 2018 02:22:00 EST uA4MRYo6 No.146297 Reply
Looks like a potential kill you dead slowly over a month with no cure very painfully - mushroom.


View Thread Reply
- Sat, 09 Sep 2017 19:32:42 EST 3L3KKG1u No.145319
File: 1504999962099.jpg -(244404B / 238.68KB, 2500x1875) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Spidermites
So i have a mild spidermite infestation. Had some random himalayan seeds that i grew on my windowsill, so they are 3 midget mature plants with a small amount of leafs. They are now in the box. Only tiny tiny webs, but you can clearly see the spots where they eat the leaves. About half of the leafs on each plant are affected, the lower once the most. Already removed one set of the worst.
Now this is a no budget grow, i live in poverty and realistically i cant order anything.
i thought about apllying a spray mixture of soap, garlic and then possibly chili to get rid of them. i know people that say garlic repels them if grown as a companion plant. true ?
sadly no pics of my own until now
6 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Cedric Billingman - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 09:58:20 EST +feR4wOL No.146276 Reply
OP spidermites aren't fatal to the plants.

Besides spritzing the plants with water to blast them away (which can reduce their population) just try to keep the temperature as low as possible and you will still get a half decent yield.
The mites won't go away anyway.
To completely get rid of mites you have to start over and sterilize the environment.

Next time use properly store bought soil which won't contain mites.
Molly Fuckingman - Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:49:20 EST ol/Sob4l No.146280 Reply
How come nobody is smoking plants with tobacco ?
tobacco smoke is as efficient as any commercial bug spray

There is a neet trick you can try to see how deadly it is, catch a fly in a glass and blow some cigarette smoke into the glass, the fly is dead in notime.
found a youtube video
Cornelius Conkinfune - Fri, 31 Aug 2018 09:52:06 EST ePUTzbMD No.146295 Reply
Spidermites adapt to poisons so you need to systematically use different chemicals. There is no one application solution that would completely destroy them.

Spider mites? What's happening =(

View Thread Reply
- Mon, 13 Aug 2018 11:59:10 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146241
File: 1534175950850.jpg -(74684B / 72.93KB, 998x1920) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Spider mites? What's happening =(
I've been using neem oil for about two weeks now, once every three days before lights out. The last living mite I saw was about three days ago, I sprayed them again last night.
10 posts and 5 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Esther Feblingridge - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:08:05 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146253 Reply
It looks like a lack of light. Its internodes are few and far apart. The leaves look pathetic like they can't photosynthesize properly. Nutes are there as it's burning but not enough light to use em.

Give it more light. Ventilation for more light. Problem solved.
newgrowth2018 - Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:26:58 EST 4RDjjsVj No.146254 Reply
think the nutrients are burning the leaves??? see the webs and holes on the leaves? I'm at 4250 Lumens currently, I assumed it would be enough. Also it has tons of ventilation and fresh air, though I've been cooling my grow room because I heard it makes it harder for the mites to reproduce.

5 out of 16 seeds sprouted

View Thread Reply
- Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:33:51 EST oo8zzN+e No.145905
File: 1523990031618.png -(123510B / 120.62KB, 500x479) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. 5 out of 16 seeds sprouted
I planted 16 seeds about a week ago from a reliable breeder.

In a few days, 3 popped. In a few more days, 2 more popped. Now it's been nothing for a few days. Am I being too impatient, my time perspective off, or should I lightly unbury and see if they popped a tap root or will that do more damage than good and just let them sit and if they make it they make it but if they aren't gonna make it nothing I do will help?
17 posts and 5 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Eugene Sellercocke - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:05:23 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146264 Reply
Yeah, I wanted to add that this is just my personal anecdote and doesn't mean shit in grand scheme, since, yeah, maybe it was the seeds, maybe I did something wrong, maybe storage issues by me or place I bought it from (although those were just regular seeds I always buy), but forgot.

Planting them already sprouted was pretty cool, but imo streight to substrate is much simpler. I just put those fuckers horizontally-ish, cover them up, add some water, couple days later, bam, a little green bastard.
Polly Bodgefield - Thu, 23 Aug 2018 18:57:34 EST 9u92qZyz No.146281 Reply
>I do not understand why people keep advising this paper towel method.


I tried it twice and both times failed miserably.

I've had 100% success with just digging a tiny finger sized hole in the soil about 2 inches deep and watering every now and then.
Frederick Worthingwell - Sat, 25 Aug 2018 02:36:15 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146284 Reply

On my last grow I used 20L bags, and since the substrate was already wet, since I usually rinse it thoroughly in case the manufacturer didn't give a shit about salt and other contaminants. I just added some water, with 1/2 - 1/3 the usual nutes, once when planting, and a tiny bit the next day. And that's it, and I probably could've skiped the second watering, the substrate felt wet enough.

Best plant I've had growing so far.

Retard plant

View Thread Reply
- Tue, 21 Aug 2018 04:26:42 EST aWb7Y/oB No.146278
File: 1534840002243.jpg -(3352629B / 3.20MB, 2448x3264) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Retard plant
I have a gorilla glue autoflower here with (probably) a wide range of problems but am not sure how to proceed.

It's at 16 and a half weeks from seed, however while LSTing about 2 weeks into flower I accidentally snapped the head off. This led to it growing really wide and fat.

During most of the summer the temp was sitting at 32c, obviously too high but nothing else I could do. I also found some bugs on it during the summer, however they appear to not be there any more as far as I can see. The other plants in the tent were not affected by any of these problems and are doing just fine.

The actual problem I have is although the buds are fat, the pistils don't seem to be turning orange. Some are, but it seems to be stalling / going very slow.

Leaves were yellowing as if it were finishing, but some have dried up with some dark spots on them. Just wondering if it will actually finish or if I should just call it and cut it down. The buds are sufficiently fat, it just doesn't look fully finished.

russet mites

View Thread Reply
- Wed, 13 Jun 2018 23:10:30 EST uBY6Q3qf No.146058
File: 1528945830876.jpg -(313062B / 305.72KB, 650x862) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. russet mites
russet mite discussion:
what to do about them?
how to prevent them?
23 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 17:53:41 EST ef1tcmWF No.146230 Reply
I actually got a pretty decent harvest, because the plant built an extremely extensive root structure during vegetation. I took my time and topped it a few times so that I would get 16 symmetrical main tops which I made fill the entire space with low stress training by tying down the branches with soft rubber coated wire plant ties and duct tape. During flowering the colas got super big, longer and thicker than my forearm. I noticed whatever was munching on my roots right when I was debating changing it to flower at the end of a long veg, that settled the debate and I started to flower. It worked quite well but eventually near the end the little critters had basically eaten the entire root structure so it didn't finish quite right I think. Still it was an amazing flavor and high.

Growing in perlite is a good option if you can keep it sterile I think although deep water culture is safer imo because few critters can survive being fully immersed in water. You can add worm castings to a deep water culture to get beneficial bacteria and fungi that help protect the root zone. Change your water every couple of weeks and each time mix up an extra amount of nutrient solution and clean your air stone or whatever you're using to oxygenate the root zone. Save some of your extra nutrient solution to add in later when the plant drinks it. Add fresh worm castings only to the root chamber not the extra nutrients because the beneficial microbes won't survive in water without it being oxygenated.

My best weed came from when I did this. I had a small rockwool starter cube that I placed the germinated seed in, then I put that in a small net pot filled with perlite with gravel on top. This small amount of perlite was pretty good I think because the perlite sucked up moisture from the reservoir beneath it and wicked up moisture to the rockwool but the rockwool was above the water so it had pretty good oxygenation. You just need to make sure the bottom of the net pot is submerged in the water. Just run straight water until the second set of true leaves form then add 1/8th of the nute bottle's mixing formula and slowly titrate up to maximum strength over the course of a month. I did it in a 5 gallon bucket with a couple of air stones in the bottom and a couple of aquarium air pumps. Root oxygen levels are important which means you need to consider two things, water temperature and water aeration. The bubble stones will aerate the root chamber and eventually your roots will grow down through the damp perlite and hit the water itself at which point you get a real boom in growth. The roots form clusters that plunge down into the water chamber and if the plant is given adequate light it will respond with much faster growth than any other method I'm aware of.

One of the tips I've found that is most important but is easily overlooked is that the closer you can get your lights to your plants, the more intense the radiation is when it hits the plant and the more energy it transfers. The plant itself can tolerate high temperatures in the 90's or even above for some strains and will actually grow the fastest and most vigorously in high temperatures, right up to the point that the enzymes begin to degrade from high temps at which point you'll see a big drop off in growth. This means you don't want your lights to be so close that they burn your plants, but if you have adequate airflow and light cooling, you can benefit by increasing the efficiency of the watts you're paying the electricity company for by moving the lights closer to the plants. I think that many lower wattage, cooler running LEDs or Flourescent bulbs spread out that can cover a large area and be placed close to the canopy is a much better choice than a single high wattage, high temp light placed above the same area at a farther distance. The coverage is better and the intensity per watt is better with more lights at a lower wattage each spread out and put closer. Pay attention to the spectrum of the bulbs you're going to get though and look at cannabis' active use spectrum that will tell you what spectrum you should be targeting. The root chamber must be kept cooler than the plant itself though. Some sort of refrigeration is optimal, but insulation and shielding from the light above can be adequate.
Walter Simmlehood - Wed, 08 Aug 2018 18:45:19 EST ef1tcmWF No.146231 Reply
BTW I have used both CFLs and LEDs and I recommend them both. If you want to do a cheap CFL setup you can get a couple of power strips and some adapters with a slot to screw in a light bulb on one end and a plug on the other that you can plug into an outlet to power a lightbulb. Turn the power strips back to back so that the power outlets are facing outwards, then plug in three light bulbs on each side. You can zip tie or tape the power strips together. This makes a ghetto light fixture that is cheap and can work with CFLs. Use standard size 20-30 watt (actual, not equivalent) bulbs in the correct spectrum that come in the standard size. You can put a reflector of some sort of white or shiny material like mylar above the lights so that the light emitted by the cfls that goes up is redirected to the plants below. CFLs emit the most light from the sides of the bulbs, not the tops so this fixture is optimal as all 6 bulbs are placed with the tops pointing out to the sides and the sides of the light pointing up and down. Two of these will cover about one to one-and-a-half square meters. You can also choose to put pairs of 2 on each side rather than 3 or split up the strips so they're not in pairs. The less bulbs there are clustered together, the less heat there will be and the closer you can get them to the plant canopy which means the more intense the light the plants are exposed to gets. Led light fixtures are neat and probably easier to work with and have even better cooling and efficiency than florescents. You can also get really into building custom LED setups if you're into electronics but I've never messed with any of that.

Your plant can take in as much light as you can give it in a deep water culture because there's an optimal amount of water. The plant will just respirate away like crazy and build and build and grow and grow. You can be aggressive with your nutrient feeding as long as you are religious about keeping your PH optimal. This is where most people fuck up. if your ph is fluctuating each time you change your reservoir or when you add in more water in-between changes, your plant will be stressed and/or nutrients will be locked out and plant growth will suffer as a result. It has to be kept precise and never change but if you do this it's surprisingly easy and gives insane growth and yields.
Charlotte Blarrywill - Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:27:06 EST B0kZyQRI No.146277 Reply
Thats a pretty great guide to growing indoor hydro you packed into those two posts. Good to know your plants turned out nice too, on the topic of pushing maximum light, I'd love to see someone take hyrdoponic growing outdoor and really push things under sunlight, possibly using reflectors of some sort to add to the intensity of the light. Very few people run anything near solar intensity lighting inside and those that do only run it at that intensity near the tops of the buds. Outdoor hydro could be the best way to combine maximum light intensity with max nutes.
User is currently banned from all boards

Liquid culture ready?

View Thread Reply
- Tue, 17 Jul 2018 10:34:19 EST zoxq6Z04 No.146159
File: 1531838059605.png -(3032637B / 2.89MB, 1432x1746) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Liquid culture ready?
I made this a week ago and Its my first time
I don't know if I can tell if this liquid culture has well,.. cultured
>what do you think
4 posts and 3 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Oliver Brunderhall - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 05:54:32 EST vdtZzyP7 No.146222 Reply
and the dark cloudy stuff its actually kinda white up close but since its denser then the water around It and shadows itself
Fanny Chinderham - Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:35:42 EST 7fhWy1tg No.146267 Reply
>>146159 Only way to find out is a test batch of substrate/agar as someone else said. Best of luck

Leaves dying, what's happening?

View Thread Reply
- Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:29:10 EST 7XvOeivC No.146257
File: 1534314550153.jpg -(639939B / 624.94KB, 1804x814) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Leaves dying, what's happening?
Any ideas what causes this? It's almost exclusively the lower leaves doing this and some lowest small flowering branches nodding off or browning and dying but they are like 3 feet from the lights anyway.
The monsters are about 5 feet tall so obviously light penetration in the lowest levels is slim.

Been some 2 weeks in flower counting from first pistils.
Hydroponic, using bloom:micro in 2:1 ratio, EC around 1.3-1.5, but it keeps rising so I'm going down to 1 slowly. Doesn't seem to be nute burn though.
Using liquid silicon occasionally at 1 ml/litre. Sometimes adding hydrogen peroxide 1 ml/litre tops. Using top max 2-4 ml/l.
PH fluctuates approximately between 5.7-6.5 depending on adding new water etc.
Temps may be a little high but not super overkill. There is colder intake blowing under the canopy at almost ground level. Not sure if too cold.
2 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Rebecca Blatherlock - Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:54:55 EST 5R5q7BKE No.146261 Reply
looks like phosphorus deficiency.

Maybe your plant is so big it needs even more phosphorus.
But I am noob so you probably should disregard my guess work.
Cornelius Findleham - Thu, 16 Aug 2018 21:40:49 EST 3cvBQsis No.146265 Reply
that leaf on the right has spider mite damage all over it

Report Post
Please be descriptive with report notes,
this helps staff resolve issues quicker.