Leave these fields empty (spam trap):
You can leave this blank to post anonymously, or you can create a Tripcode by using the format Name#Password
[i]Italic Text[/i]
[b]Bold Text[/b]
[spoiler]Spoiler Text[/spoiler]
>Highlight/Quote Text
[pre]Preformatted & Monospace Text[/pre]
[super]Superset Text[/super]
[sub]Subset Text[/sub]
1. Numbered lists become ordered lists
* Bulleted lists become unordered lists


Curling leaves

- Tue, 10 Jul 2018 23:45:08 EST TdkE6Oti No.146123
File: 1531280708287.jpg -(839240B / 819.57KB, 1088x1920) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Curling leaves
So, my plants are looking a bit afflicted and I can't seem to find anything that matches the looks of the symptoms exactly.

*It's an outdoor grow
*The plants have been growing healthy and fine up until flowering
*Now the leaves around the bud are curling in odd shapes and directions.

Could be an insect infestation and I'm going to be spreading diatomaceous earth to slow it down while diagnosing.

Anyone see this before?
Edward Trotgold - Wed, 11 Jul 2018 01:29:28 EST NCtp+u6l No.146125 Reply
I disagree. Those mites tend to kill off the pistils, if the hairs were burned too, I'd agree
Never know without a scope/loupe though.
Heat stress or a ph issue is my suggestion.

Has it been hot? Are you in a container of the ground?
Betsy Gubblewod - Thu, 12 Jul 2018 00:30:29 EST TdkE6Oti No.146127 Reply
1531369829349.jpg -(866888B / 846.57KB, 1088x1920) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
The pistils are pristine. There's no sign of yellowing or anything seemingly odd other than the curling. It's strange.

We had a high temp. of ~ 90 degrees the past couple of days. That's quite uncommon for the area. Maybe they just weren't used to it?

Anything I should keep an eye out for warning signs other than the curling?
Henry Broblingbire - Thu, 12 Jul 2018 14:49:20 EST KBxNFQdg No.146128 Reply
>Other than the curling
Leaf edges curl up, look shiny and get a wavy look.

Hard to detect until it's too late, unless you get a good eye for it.
Rebecca Hengerchune - Fri, 13 Jul 2018 20:43:20 EST TdkE6Oti No.146139 Reply
Got a preferred method of dealing with them?

Going to order a 30x jewelers loupe for inspecting, and I'm unsure whether to go wettable sulfur, neem spray, or Essentria IC3 as a weapon. I'd prefer something that isn't going to leave poisonous residue on/in the bud but It's fairly early in flowering still.

Probably should get some mite predators while I'm at it. >.>
Reuben Commerdat - Sat, 14 Jul 2018 17:23:36 EST NCtp+u6l No.146142 Reply
...none of those three are a good idea, per se. The IC3, if those are the options.
Things with lingering smells are not good, but at least Essentria sounds like it isn't foul like neem is. Sulfur is a powder, sticks to the resin, and makes bud completely unsmokable. As buds swell, it traps it in the crevices of the bud, you can't wash it off.
I've used Organocide in your position, the fish oil breaks down and acts as a foliar feed. Gotta stop three weeks before harvest, despite the label.
Ebenezer Blytheway - Sat, 14 Jul 2018 20:00:27 EST TdkE6Oti No.146144 Reply
I was looking at organacide at the local Bi-mart today.

Seemed to work well?

I'm about to head out with my new loupe momentarily and see what I can see.
Ebenezer Blytheway - Sat, 14 Jul 2018 21:30:36 EST TdkE6Oti No.146145 Reply
Well, maybe I'm just blind but I'm unsure if I can see anything concrete with the 30x or 60x lenses.

Orangish dots looked suspicious, or they could just be dirt.

White orbish nodules every now and again. (Larger than Trichomes and not on stems)

I really couldn't tell.

The leaf curl is even worse than yesterday now, spreading to the fan leaves and the bases look a little shinier. So I think you guys are right.

Going to do an experiment and treat one of my plants with a sulfur-based spray and the other with something (hopefully) similar to organocide.

Organocide's ingredient list says that the active ingredient is sesame oil (5%). So I'll put some sesame oil w/emulsifier (Dish soap) and water in a stronger oil ratio than the store-bought stuff in a 3 gallon sprayer and try that.

Lets see what happens.
Jarvis Dablingshit - Sat, 14 Jul 2018 21:43:47 EST B0kZyQRI No.146146 Reply
i still don't know what exactly is the best spray for russets, but whatever you do spray, after its dry and you're done with spraying coat your plants with dry diatomaceous earth and let it stay like that for as long as you're willing then rinse the stuff off your plants, but be aware thats its going to take more than one rinse/dry cycle to get all that DE out of your flowers.
last summer i had a few plants which turned up infected just as they were starting to make buds and i ended up keeping the mites in check with DE and pulled nice healthy buds. hot dry weather at the start of september was a big help in getting the flowers rinsed clean, that was after having DE on the plants for the last half of august.
if you don't have the growth tips thoroughly coated they can still get fucked up.
whatever you do, don't forget to tell us about the results. these fuckers seem to be a mystery to most people still.
User is currently banned from all boards
Ebenezer Blytheway - Sun, 15 Jul 2018 11:16:17 EST TdkE6Oti No.146148 Reply
Great suggestion. I love DE and have a few containers sitting around.

I plan on testing each plant with a different concoction and see what works. I'll post pics and a write up as time progresses.

Also, thanks for the help everyone.
Caroline Wobbletirk - Sun, 15 Jul 2018 19:16:00 EST NCtp+u6l No.146149 Reply
Orange dots ARE suspicious...
The white spherical things are normal, they should be evenly distributed throughout the leaf surface (upper face too).
Anywhere you have damage, check the main veins on the bottom of the leaf, look at new growth, look at anywhere of density, and CHECK THE TRICHS. Russets LOVE trichs. Crevices in sugar leaf on damaged sections is where I'd look.

They're SMALLER than the trichs. They hate sun, so they will flee from direct light. Check the pistil hairs on nodes.

It may also be broad mites, which don't go nuts for trichs, but symptomatically identical otherwise.
If you're in flower, do NOT use sulfur, it clings to the buds permanently.
Rebecca Pashnot - Tue, 24 Jul 2018 13:09:56 EST TdkE6Oti No.146181 Reply
1532452196282.jpg -(1108168B / 1.06MB, 1088x1920) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
So, as an update the water soluble sulfur seems to be working. (Decided to just try it despite potential taste issues)

The emulsified sesame oil does not.

*Pic is of the sulfur treated plant
Hamilton Maddlepig - Tue, 24 Jul 2018 16:45:06 EST NCtp+u6l No.146183 Reply
I think you're misinterpreting your results slightly....
Because the one you treated with sulfur has mad tacos, and the one you treated with sesame doesn't.
Also, oil sprays and soaps can cause leaf curl too.
Archie Henkinsatch - Wed, 25 Jul 2018 14:43:06 EST TdkE6Oti No.146184 Reply
Maybe, I was going more from the new growth. The sulfur treated one has leaves coming in fairly normal looking while the sesame one still has mad curl on the new growth.
Charlotte Pezzleworth - Sun, 29 Jul 2018 20:28:54 EST B0kZyQRI No.146211 Reply
i've been fighting with russets since may, watching the new growth is what to look for, you got a good eye. i get the impression that russets can't feed on the fully mature leaves very well, they tend to go for the soft young flesh. with my situation sulphur works temporarily and you'll start seeing fresh russet damage if you don't spray every 3 days.
User is currently banned from all boards
David Blythespear - Tue, 31 Jul 2018 01:46:04 EST TdkE6Oti No.146213 Reply
Seems to be the case. I lapsed for two days after a week and a half of solid schedule and they came back.

I don't think it helps that I found the source too...a huge bramble of salmonberries that's infested with the buggers nearby. (Or what I think is them. I'll take pics) Gonna work on clearing that out.
Hannah Dartgold - Thu, 02 Aug 2018 01:50:13 EST B0kZyQRI No.146218 Reply
If you go around and start looking close at a lot of the plants that you're familiar with you notice that a lot of them seem to get the same sort of leaf damage not too long after summer temperatures in the 80 - 90 range start to kick in. According to some sectors to thought there is a different species of russet mite for each plant it hassles and that a tomato russet mite (for example) couldn't survive on a cannabis plant, but the guy at the hydro shop says that blackberries are a russet mite host species, if thats the case then salmonberry would be likely culprit as well. Too bad if so, those berries are really attractive when they start to shift color from yellow to red, tasty too.
User is currently banned from all boards
GANJA GANJUS - Sat, 25 Aug 2018 17:43:36 EST 9u92qZyz No.146287 Reply
It didn't need sulfur. It just needed shade from the heat and a little more water in the evening.

Eh, oh well.
Lydia Genderdock - Thu, 13 Dec 2018 00:54:15 EST e+Xn10s+ No.146481 Reply
its either a virus spread by insects or your plant got hit by pesticide drift.
Fanny Nicklestock - Sun, 24 Feb 2019 15:20:02 EST SCy+6EdV No.146490 Reply
you just made OP ruin his plants, nice one

Report Post
Please be descriptive with report notes,
this helps staff resolve issues quicker.