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Osmosis Systems

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- Mon, 25 Mar 2019 17:21:02 EST S69Ie05p No.146512
File: 1553548862599.png -(27353B / 26.71KB, 800x600) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Osmosis Systems
For the ones of you that do run / think about running a reverse osmosis system for hydro:

This is what I am planning:
All of the osmosis related stuff is below the kitchen sink.
I want to use the tank both for storing the osmosis water as well as mixing the nutrients in.

I will equip the tank (a large drinking water canister) with a ball valve.
My osmosis system will automatically shut off once the ball valve shuts. (It's supposed to do that)
Then I will remove the filling cap of the canister, add nutrients, adjust PH, etc.
When finished I have a hose that I put inside the hydro res.
For draining I want to utilize the pump that is already in the hydro system.

I plan to do this process once a week.
Any thoughts and/or pointers?
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Ebenezer Clidgehod - Tue, 26 Mar 2019 03:46:08 EST l56Iztg3 No.146513 Reply
This seems overcomplicated. What's the osmosis thingy for?
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Simon Birrymat - Tue, 26 Mar 2019 05:23:23 EST S69Ie05p No.146514 Reply
>>146513
Yeah, It kind of is :/
But if you don't know what a reverse osmosis system is you can't help.
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press - Tue, 26 Mar 2019 15:50:07 EST nZs1ulPr No.146515 Reply
>>146514
is there a particular reason you want to purify tap water - is it way too hard?
wouldnt reverse osmosis force you to adjust Ca+ Na+ and what not?

im not sure if itd prove that useful to dechlorinate water, since were talking about a batch process you could just dechlorinate water once per week and work with that

the ball valve would be a nice touch depending on the output of the osmosis pump, if its a mere trickle nannying it could prove bothersome, however it would still need supervision lest you risk spillage. youre planning on hooking the valve to a relay and just have the pump switch between on/off? youd need another manual switch obviously, otherwise the pump would just pump very small volumes at a way too high frequency and mess with the nutrient concentration

besides that youd need a comfortable way of homogenizing the nutrient solution, if the container only has a small inlet its gonna be a PITA to mix it up by hand.
and a nice opening to insert the pH-probe (and perhaps to fish it out should you drop it in, which has happened to me on a non related contraption) or youd have to take a sample out after homogenizing and measure in another container - i guess thatd be easier.


TL;DR
DIY is fun but id just make a weekly nutrient solution batch before the tank runs out, wash the tank out and refill it.
its gonna require manual input ever week either way,
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Simon Birrymat - Tue, 26 Mar 2019 18:41:44 EST S69Ie05p No.146517 Reply
>>146515
Thanks for the input!

As of why:
In comparison to the rest of the expenses ro system cheap and I want to make sure I don't need to mess mixing nutrients on a weekday except for except for user error.
I've read the PH stability without R/O is hit and miss and although it can be done it requires a lot of trail and error.

Regarding Ca+ & Na+
I will be using GHE mineral magic (or some similar product once I run out because it's constantly sold out and expensive)

The filling process
Yes it will be a once a week kind of thing where I turn on the supply valve to the reverse osmosis system and be nearby to babysit the system.
You are right I won't be doing an automatic top up of the hydro system because of spill risk and I since it is recirculating the old solution has to be discarded anyway.

Homogenizing the solution, I will just stir the solution a little so I can get a reliable PH / EC measurement during mixing and then use a re-circulating pump inside the hydro system after filling.
Using another container for nutrient mixing is definitely an option I even have a second of these canisters. I think I have to just try and see what works best.

Draining, the pump is on a timer that I can manually activate and each time I change the solution I will switch the tee valve that sits inbetween the drainage line and the drip ring and manually activate the pump till the res is empty.
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press !//CEObOMBY - Sat, 30 Mar 2019 13:03:05 EST nZs1ulPr No.146518 Reply
>>146517
huh, ive never looked into reverse osmosis for consumer grade products, all the RO systems ive seen were basically basement sized, but now im intrigued since i only knew about recyclabe ion exchange systems at home.

still, a plant is going to require so much care, that id ditch any attempts at automatization if dealing with less than - let me pull a number out my ass - 12 plants. especially with a cash crop such as weed.

automatization might be really nice if youd also like to control RH and air exchange (also substantially less dangerous should a critical system failure occur). though those factors could probably also be resolved by using time switch relays after calibration for a specific grow tent.



also, adjusting pH is always pretty always a tedious matter once you have a couple of different ions ime (unless you dont give a fuck about the digit after the . ). the henderson hasselbach equation is cool and all, but kinda unreliable if dealing with biological systems above petri dish material.
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Lillian Gondercocke - Sat, 30 Mar 2019 17:47:45 EST S69Ie05p No.146519 Reply
>>146518
Automation is not where I am going with this.

I'm sure that makes sense if you are running a large crop in dedicated facilities.

I plan on taking this to the biggest extent that makes sense for me, mainly because I am more interested in the technical aspect than the result.
Hell I might even grow chilies to make my own hot sauce instead of weed once and every so often

In principle I could control humidity and temperature inside the tent at the same time. I've got a pretty expensive extraction fan that has two sets of motor windings . I also got a dimmable led driver that can be controlled via pwm.

For starters I will just switch the fan to high during light cycle and low during darkness and dim the light as the combined vector product of temperature and humidity rises.

In case you're interested:
I will be using the
Sonoff 4CH Pro
Sonoff TH16
smart home controllers for that purpose. (Dimming the led will need some of my own circuitry)

They probably aren't suitable for heavy loads you'd have in professional setups, but they are highly hackable and can even be programmed using the arduino ide. And there is custom firmware already done by some people out there on github.
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Clara Donnerdene - Wed, 03 Apr 2019 15:20:51 EST S69Ie05p No.146520 Reply
Ugh.
The pipe fittings are driving me nuts.

Whoever came up with the British Pipe Tread system should have their bones burned just in case they decide to come back as a ghost.

The BSP rating is the outer diameter of a hose and the fittings themselves have no relation to that other than a ratio that is different for each one.
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Wesley Drimmerfoot - Sun, 07 Apr 2019 16:08:42 EST +eGMhO6Q No.146535 Reply
>>146512
get hydro system that circulates water then just replace the water once a week like a normal person
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Cedric Brookson - Sun, 07 Apr 2019 19:13:44 EST uHoIBLKZ No.146538 Reply
changing the water that often is a waste of nutrients in my opinion, especially during early vegetation. It's only necessary if you're trying to stave off root rot with constant water changes rather than refrigeration or by adding beneficial bacteria, both of which are better options imo. Once you switch the lights to the flowering cycle the plant will be using a lot more nutrients and there's the possibility for salts to build and for nutrient lockout to occur so it's best to change the water more often but early on when the plant is small it's probably not needed. Keep in mind that plants can drink as much as a gallon of water per day depending on their size and atmospheric conditions so you're going to need to top off even if you change once a week. I like to keep some strong nutrient solution and some plain water and add in the amounts of each that I need to replenish my reservoir while also keeping my nutrient levels stable.
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Cedric Dartforth - Mon, 08 Apr 2019 13:24:56 EST S69Ie05p No.146539 Reply
>>146535
you mean drain2waste? Because the other one is recirculating, that's what I've got.
It's a ebb'n'flow system.

Drain2waste is only feastible for larger systems.
This will be a 250W 60cm grow.
If I had 4 times the area and 1KW of lights I'd think about it.

But as it stand there is no space.
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Cedric Dartforth - Mon, 08 Apr 2019 13:48:23 EST S69Ie05p No.146541 Reply
>>146538
Ideally yes, topping the reservoir off would save water and nutrients.
I'd have to just try what works.

And again it's a 250W system with a single plant, if that one gallon figure is accurate I'd have to change the fill the reservoir twice a week at the very least.

The nice thing is though I can always dim the lights and as I am using a 60cm tent the plant should be fine with half that power (It will be 170lm/watt leds)

Either way you slice it once I probably have to change the solution once the water level falls below 30%. Topping it off at that point might be possible or not, but I doubt I can do that more than once before having to discard the waste.

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