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420chan is Getting Overhauled - Changelog/Bug Report/Request Thread (Updated July 26)

Sandisk SSD shit.

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- Mon, 24 Jun 2019 19:07:21 EST qMugolV4 No.122319
File: 1561417641084.jpg -(18159B / 17.73KB, 500x349) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Sandisk SSD shit.
My Sandisk SSDPlus 240GB trash plastic has gone to shit after just 7 months of use. I can still boot into Windows7 on an ancient PC but it is excruciatingly slow. I can still copy files at much slower speeds than originally but I managed to back up my data to a USB stick. What tf is going on, anyone has experience with these stupid SSDs? I had a WD Caviar Black HDD that lasted me for 7 years in a PC that was hit numerous times. I thought SSDs are supposed to be even more resilient because they have no moving parts. I'm so pissed. Is there anyway to make this SSD work again or should I should I backup everything and take a hammer to it? It basically freezes for one or two literal minutes at a time and then starts working again and so on. I tried that weird method of letting it on while in BIOS with only power plug connected to the SSD but obviously that didn't work. Could this be because of multiple power outages and hard resets this computer has experienced in the last months while ON?



Also we need to bring back lead based solder immediately.
>>
EmmaTrotwill.php - Mon, 24 Jun 2019 23:06:42 EST JXNlra8I No.122320 Reply
Look at the SMART status and then check if TRIM is enabled. Beyond that, run some benchmarks to see what specific operations are slow.
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JamesGungertadge.gz - Tue, 25 Jun 2019 16:46:05 EST C7IrPxTW No.122321 Reply
Sandisk & WD are the worst storage brands from my experience.
Every single Sandisk SD card failed for me, and every single Western Digital Hard drive failed completely. (Controller dead, all data lost every single time)

For flash storage only buy Samsung.
For HDD storage only buy Seagate.

those last.
>>
JamesGungertadge.gz - Tue, 25 Jun 2019 16:48:01 EST C7IrPxTW No.122322 Reply
>>122320
SMART is only useful if the actual storage medium has errors. This almost never the case. Often something else breaks, usually the controller and in that case SMART will still say everything is OK.
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BeatriceBiffingshit.avi - Thu, 04 Jul 2019 10:50:44 EST AyiRf54w No.122336 Reply
>>122321
>those last.

Bullshit. You can look at year-by-year statistics and see that by the time you get this impression, it's objectively out of date.

Failure rate at the worst case for consumer drives is 3% at worst in general. The lowest failure rate by brand was actually Hitachi, and the time I bought a Hitachi it failed.

You need to buy two hard drives and back up, or have much better than normal upload rates for consumer Internet.
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CharlotteNorringstock.pm3 - Thu, 04 Jul 2019 17:43:54 EST iVlLvQYS No.122339 Reply
>>122336
Yeah, 3% failure rate for consumer hard-drives in a statistic based on Joe Public who barely uses the drives.
I admit that my subjective experience is by no means representative but I do think that for my use-case I got a large enough sample to say that WD sucks.
Which is leaving the PC always on and filling the HDDs to the brim.
Rated for continuous operation is a must for spinning rust drives, and Seagate drives actually are able to spin down without load without ruining them.

Also: Nobody needs hard drives other than for semi-disposable data anyway these days, the kind you download and keep "just in case"

TLDR, statistics mean shit if you are a data hoarder because that use case isn't covered by them.
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RebeccaHuddleridge.mpeg - Fri, 19 Jul 2019 16:31:39 EST atXUFh+m No.122376 Reply
>>122339
>3% failure rate for consumer hard-drives in a statistic based on Joe Public who barely uses the drives.

It's based mainly on datacenter usage.

Granted this is highly skewed as certain brands are represented a whole lot more than others, especially for any given year.
>>
JennyBrezzlepot.dot - Sat, 20 Jul 2019 04:01:11 EST +tjz3aaz No.122377 Reply
>>122339
>I got a large enough sample to say that WD sucks.
>Which is leaving the PC always on and filling the HDDs to the brim.

Always on doesn't necessarilly mean failure. Aside from ssds I have had HDs
working for years nearly 24/7. And still do work correctly. Yes one needs a bit of space for left, for whatever purposes. They kinda do that anyway.
>>
PhineasClemblelot.log - Wed, 24 Jul 2019 20:48:16 EST 3s8wh/be No.122379 Reply
I find the arguments against WD interesting, because I've only ever had WD hard drives since my first PC that wasn't a family PC, 15 years ago. None of my hard drives have failed to date! All 4 are still strong, even though I spend so much time downloading games, anime, music, ect.
Personal experiences mean so little though!
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WilliamDrullerfuck.pm - Thu, 25 Jul 2019 04:43:25 EST AIHcleTp No.122380 Reply
>>122379
Some drive manufacturers have put out versions that just plain fail.

Too many variables of how and why a hd may be deemed the point of failure.

A HD may come with windows installed from whatever computer manufacturer that fail consistently.

But the drive may be fine. I find that repair partitions/drives fail to restore the system and people and computer manufacturers may blame the hard drive.

I think the added software;

The diagnostics, 'keep you system and drivers updated, contact help center, etc, software is often the failure.

I just zero out drives that have these extras. These installed helper applications and extras are basically useless IMO. And as well are the point of failure of the operating system. I have done many systems
that the software often has common theme. I have asked, does this have a restore partition, yes, but it
didn't work. Trial version of whatever, anti-virus, yea.

So if in warranty, the HD is replaced, zeroed out, called refurbished and working correctly. Then often gets moved to computer chain stores as 'refurbished and you can get a good drive for a lot less $$.

Plus a warranty. Unless stated otherwise.

External drives, just wipe the drive along with whatever that is on the drive. It's a hard drive.

Computer manufacturers drives with the restore partitions and extras. I say just wipe the drive by default. Reinstall windows. Install drivers enough to get windows connected to the internet if needed. Get whatever updates and wanted optional drivers updates through windows update, and you should have a reliable
stable working system.

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