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solanoid valves

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- Fri, 06 Jun 2014 02:49:15 EST XObDUDiZ No.6345
File: 1402037355053.jpg -(599227B / 585.18KB, 1920x1200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. solanoid valves
I have a solenoid valve that I would like to control from my computer. I don't really want an expensive control box and my budget is $20 for something that is really simple. Literally all I want to do is plug in a usb that i can connect directly to my valve and turn it off and on from my computer but I don't want some large bulky or expensive thing or any kind of elaborate setup. What should I look for because I don't really have a clue what all the funky names are for the thing im looking for is called.
4 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Phineas Cloppershaw - Sun, 08 Jun 2014 14:09:07 EST As+rlL8l No.6351 Reply

You need to know how to program in C to write programs for the arduino.

But for something as simple as what you need to do you could probably figure it out in a weekend if you've never programmed before.
Hugh Fublingbick - Sun, 08 Jun 2014 22:53:24 EST XObDUDiZ No.6354 Reply
On a sidenote, does python share similarities to C++?
I already have it on my computer and I was looking into tutorials for it. Otherwise I'd just get C
Caroline Brottinglock - Sat, 14 Jun 2014 12:32:07 EST IvewFQxU No.6362 Reply
You need something called a USB relay
They cost a few $
And then you probably need a powersupply that fits your solenoid

underwater rov

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- Mon, 19 May 2014 18:07:05 EST 8ACDD/S2 No.6320
File: 1400537225638.jpg -(115925B / 113.21KB, 1106x826) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. underwater rov
how to insert cables into hermetic underwater structure?
what materials would you recommend for the skeleton? its supposed to be able to go 150m deep, sea water.
how do you attach parts (engines, lights, etc) to such skeleton?

i have no idea where to look for answers to questions like that. they're probably pretty retarded.
4 posts and 2 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Nell Suffingfoot - Wed, 28 May 2014 15:07:54 EST P1FecDgQ No.6330 Reply

Gaskets could fail at those pressures if OP isn't careful. I'd recommend finding someway to waterproof and seal the electronics themselves, and allow water to enter the structure.
Captain Blackheart - Tue, 03 Jun 2014 05:25:49 EST WCjzl674 No.6338 Reply
for lights and cameras use gaskets & wrap in layers of clear plastic
and as for engine axles or hydraulics, look up submarine spec gaskets
good luck with your deep sea roving, Shit Povingwill !
underwater rov solution water pressure - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 06:09:13 EST EDnokgZa No.6344 Reply
1401962953843.jpg -(169405B / 165.43KB, 625x684) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
OP i remember reading somewhere that electronics can run uninterupted in mineral oil so my theory is anything that must keep dry i suggest creating a normal underwater and oil-tight enclosure and placing the electronics in the box fill till overflowing with mineral oil and seal with rubber o rings and gasket protected nuts n bolts and test at depth i remember this from overhearing a few marine rov pecialsts on natgeoHD and apoparently use it to stop camera and light bulbs from imploding underwater they pump any airpocket full of the stuff not only that but the oil acts to not only insulate from water and possible shorts but can severely lower the water pressure exerted upon your electronics enclosure

btw pic unrelated but stfu ozfag here


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- Sat, 17 May 2014 01:58:41 EST RFYmpDbI No.6315
File: 1400306321975.jpg -(31788B / 31.04KB, 500x333) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Books
Any good books on mechanical or electrical engineering, or engineering in general?
2 posts and 1 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Walter Niggergold - Wed, 21 May 2014 23:02:45 EST CKZoWqYh No.6325 Reply
Depends on your level and what you want to learn.
If you are a complete noob then start with just a basic inroductory physics books, like ''University Physics by Young and Freedman" and read the relevant chapters.
Then on the other hand if you want to know about signals and a lot of other EE stuff and you already know complex number theory, linear algebra and the other math involved, you could read something like "Signals and Systems by Oppenheim and Wilsky".
All really depends on what you know, what you want to learn, how intricately do you want to learn it(general description or mathematically going into it) et.c..
Reuben Hellercocke - Sun, 25 May 2014 12:30:46 EST WCjzl674 No.6326 Reply
if wanted to start engineering TODAY without prior knowledge of my field, maybe something beyond physics and basic maths
Hedda Wazzlewene - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 05:15:56 EST ar3QJwTD No.6343 Reply
1401959756368.jpg -(70959B / 69.30KB, 300x377) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>if wanted to start engineering TODAY without prior knowledge of my field, maybe something beyond physics and basic maths.
What do I look at; Engineering monthly?
Do I want a dummies book?

Video Recording for Senior Design

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- Wed, 04 Jun 2014 14:15:42 EST 8+Ra4Lcx No.6341
File: 1401905742584.gif -(465537B / 454.63KB, 500x500) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Video Recording for Senior Design
Hey Tesla,

My group is currently designing an engineering capstone project, a video camera that automatically detects and records meteors or other aerial phenomenon. So far, we have acquired a camera outputting BNC cabling, designed our framing, and are starting to design an environmental container to keep the camera safe.

The problem we are having regards actually getting the camera to show up on the computer, that is, we have the BNC cable going to a BNC to USB converter, plugged into our USB (3.0) port on our computer. However, we are unable to get the camera to display with our capture software (UFOCapture).

We surmise that we may be missing a physical DVR box between the camera and computer to record the footage. Thus, I have come to you for help.

What is, in your opinion, the best way to get a BNC wired camera to display a live feed onto a computer. We also prefer to use a non wireless solution, as well, due mostly to out Mechanical concentrations in studies. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as video is generally our weakpoint in this project.

Thanks fellow Enginerds

pic related, an example of a best case scenario capture of a meteor.
Betsy Bligglechere - Thu, 05 Jun 2014 02:07:20 EST 2POYse6P No.6342 Reply
1401948440981.jpg -(99648B / 97.31KB, 960x720) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
>unable to get the camera to display
why not?


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- Tue, 04 Mar 2014 20:50:40 EST UD9Q5Q+J No.6187
File: 1393984240251.jpg -(19979B / 19.51KB, 348x310) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. shocking
What's the highest voltage you've been shocked with, /tesla/?

ESD doesn't count
15 posts and 2 images omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Phoebe Blytheforth - Fri, 02 May 2014 04:05:01 EST 0hmA6MET No.6290 Reply
1399017901152.jpg -(528069B / 515.69KB, 2708x1985) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
I've touched a hot wire twice, both times had some insulation though, so I cannot be sure how much voltage I've been exposed to.

I have an abnormal blood type though, ad now I shock people when I touch them, but it never shocks me, and sometimes I hold a charge like a resistor, it is quite strange.....
Cornelius Sidgepuck - Fri, 02 May 2014 23:22:50 EST 01krkNKo No.6292 Reply
I think you mean a capacitor, but I know what you mean. It's easy to see how people can build up different amounts of static charge, though. People have different skin types and some are more oily or sweaty than others.

Consider how dialectric insulators and capacitors work. The larger a capacitor is, the more energy it takes to charge up to a high voltage. Think about filling up a kiddie pool, vs. an olympic sized swimming pool. Conductive materials like metal don't build up high voltage static charge very fast because the charge gets quickly distributed over a larger area. Many insulative materials like plastic and styrofoam build up higher voltages because insulators have a very low capacitance and high resistance, so the charge can't dissipate through the material as easily. Sweaty, salty skin is very conductive compared to dry skin, so the dry person would build up higher static charges.


Locked View Thread Reply
- Sun, 01 Jun 2014 00:19:44 EST VzcGbFxW No.6333
File: 1401596384438.jpg -(65101B / 63.58KB, 426x640) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Geoengineering/Chemtrails
Dear /tesla/

I'm a normal /b/ and /weed/ visitor but I come to you in hopes to try to understand a real concern of mine that if is honestly being covered up I will have to say there is no hope for our country once the long term effects are noticed.

Have any of you heard of Geoengineering or chemtrials. I recently viewed a video of a presentation about the topic. It tells of how the government has been spraying aluminum nano-particles into the upper atmosphere. It is said it is to help reduce carbon emissions by essentially (real layman's terms here and this is my mental visualization of it) using the nano-particals as tin foil to encompass the upper atmosphere and have the sun "bake" off the greenhouse gases. They say it is causing droughts in places like CA and other odd things that could actually be as bad if not worse than global warming (although different from the side effects of global warming). The concept seems completely half baked and horrible to begin with. They continue on with how scientists are activity trying to get the word out and are shutdown. When u Google the topic the first site is a Wikipedia page of how it is a conspiracy. They say they attempt to change it just to "theory" but it continually gets changed back. The actual site for the speakers community is http://www.geoengineeringwatch.org

The video I saw kinda looses me when they go into radio waves controlling the weather through this but it does seem completely ridiculous that they believe something like this would help. There are patents taken out that are accessible by the public that show people have at least thought of this plan and want to see it enacted.
My question is has anyone else heard of this?
Are there more credible sources that this is happening?
And can we at least sue for introducing aluminum nano-particles in the air?
(PS. Nano-particles refers to the size of the particles, not that they are robotic in anyway..... I hope..)

Pic unrelated (if dogs could text)
Clara Hackleman - Sun, 01 Jun 2014 13:57:45 EST P1FecDgQ No.6334 Reply
1401645465257.jpg -(129608B / 126.57KB, 1024x768) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
OP, you might feel more at home in /tinfoil/. That's really all I can bring myself to say. Good luck and stay safe.

Using a cordless grinder inappropriately for fun and profit.

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- Fri, 16 May 2014 20:34:57 EST 0vSGJCQr No.6314
File: 1400286897564.jpg -(66969B / 65.40KB, 426x426) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Using a cordless grinder inappropriately for fun and profit.
Remember those little wind-up toys you had as a kid? The ones that had a sandpaper disc and flint and would shoot sparks?

I want to make one. But on a larger scale, and with the possibility of an immense amount of damage should it go wrong. Why? Because I want to.

The end project will be more like an RC controlled toy and a Type 1 from Screamers.

For the sparking bit, I figured it would be most effective to use a cordless cut off tool. The discs are cheap and durable, and I could simply have a servo drop a chunk of steel rod onto it like a record needle. Big sparks...tons of fun.

I can find tons of cordless cut off tools. But they come sans batteries. The battery packs run a minimum of $50 and I would also need a charger. I can get get a LI-PO battery pack from Hobby King that has 75% more amp hours for $20.00 and any charger would be far more versatile than some proprietary thing.

Here is my question - Do I NEED the OEM battery pack on these things? I can easily see the companies that make these tools throwing in a little ATTiny chip for $1.20 that would ensure you can't use non-mfg batteries. I would like to avoid that kind of shit, but can't find much data out there on this. Ideally I would buy the cutoff tool, break it down to just the parts I need and wire it into one of these -


Any info would be appreciated as I figure out this beast.
Hamilton Wemmlechotch - Thu, 29 May 2014 16:36:05 EST P1FecDgQ No.6331 Reply
1401395765544.gif -(1464530B / 1.40MB, 400x259) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
While I don't exactly understand the function of your project. I do understand the desire to create your very own machine. It's honestly an amazing process and it can be a beautiful thing to breathe life and form into shapeless metal.

While I have no experience with the battery pack in question (as I prefer internal combustion as a means of propulsion/power) the reviews on it seem quite positive, and at that price I don't really see any harm in giving it an honest shot. If it doesn't work, then you have your answer. And it will give you the knowledge you need for any future projects that might require a battery pack.

Anyway, best of luck with your creation! remember to construct it with care, and I'm sure it will perform admirably by scaring the living bejesus out of children/household pets/pyrophobes.

Have you thought about possibly using a gigantic spiral torsion spring? like an over-sized version of the one in your pic? of course then it wouldn't be able to be Radio Controlled.
Jack Seffingstone - Fri, 30 May 2014 21:00:33 EST 0vSGJCQr No.6332 Reply
>Have you thought about possibly using a gigantic spiral torsion spring? like an over-sized version of the one in your pic? of course then it wouldn't be able to be Radio Controlled.

I did. And I may do that at some point, but however I do this, there needs to be some control since just letting this thing go would be like pumping a wolverine full of meth and letting it loose. I may go with that on another model and then have a small battery pack that allows for control. Gotta be careful though.


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- Sat, 17 May 2014 21:37:20 EST R8ES437o No.6316
File: 1400377040290.gif -(1881632B / 1.79MB, 231x200) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Toaster
I need to fix my toaster, how much would it cost to hire an engineer to come and fix it for me, is it difficult and do engineers like tea with milk or not?
Reuben Hellercocke - Sun, 25 May 2014 12:34:44 EST WCjzl674 No.6328 Reply
forget about an engineer, you need a toaster technician.


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- Fri, 02 May 2014 10:15:43 EST 9XByXaAP No.6291
File: 1399040143242.jpg -(7964B / 7.78KB, 306x185) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Shelves

I want to put up some shelves, shaped like in the pic. Where should I put the brackets for maximum support? I got 3 per shelf. The points of the red triangle is my guesstimate. Good?
Doris Brubbleson - Mon, 12 May 2014 11:01:42 EST lqGuA0m0 No.6307 Reply
If that's a wooden shelf for someones bedroom then that's perfectly fine.

If you plan on standing on it though I would suggest a highly durable frame in a similar position of your red triangle.
Then again if it was industrial I would probably suggest just using the frame and fuck off the black area.

stored energy circuit

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- Thu, 08 May 2014 22:07:03 EST 2POYse6P No.6296
File: 1399601223055.jpg -(403748B / 394.29KB, 2592x1952) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. stored energy circuit
goal: use 5 vdc @ 500 mA from a usb port to charge a largeish capacitor, and when needed deliver as many amps as possible at 1.25 vdc. when the cap drains it would output full usb port current at 1.25vdc (~2 amps?).

i'm thinking about this two ways:

  1. usb 5vdc -> cap -> voltage regulator(s) 1.25vdc -> out
  2. usb 5vdc -> voltage regulator 1.25vdc -> cap -> out

are these functionally equivalent or is there a preferable arrangement (or something else entirely)? yes this is intended as a usb powered AA battery replacement.
Matilda Blatherhall - Fri, 09 May 2014 00:52:21 EST 01krkNKo No.6297 Reply
The regulator should have a cap on both the input and output anyway (read the datasheet). But the output cap is what supplies "as many amps as possible" to the load, for a very short time at least, and it protects the regulator by filtering the current spikes out. Ideally it would be

5vdc -> cap -> 1.5V regulator -> current limiter (if not built into the regulator) -> cap -> out
Thomas Funningfield - Fri, 09 May 2014 20:54:36 EST 2POYse6P No.6300 Reply
thanks for the reply.

charging the cap with 5v will require a cap rated for 7.5v or better, which are more expensive than a 2.7v rated cap (charged by pre-regulated 1.2v).

also i would need to somehow equally split the 5v cap voltage to (three?) voltage regulators, as each is only capable of 1.5 amps.

current limiting can be done with another lm317 but i havent looked into it/built it yet.
Sidney Humblewater - Sat, 10 May 2014 12:13:23 EST 01krkNKo No.6304 Reply
You lost me here. You just need a ceramic 0.1uF at the input. These types of caps are cheap regardless of the voltage rating. Here's a 50V one that costs 16 cents:

And if 1.5 Amps isn't enough, why not find a single regulator that can output more? But you're not going to get more current than that from the USB port anyway.

Material Science Engineering

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- Fri, 18 Apr 2014 18:51:59 EST bPdtWw+Z No.6261
File: 1397861519691.jpg -(41251B / 40.28KB, 607x277) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Material Science Engineering
Hello /tesla/,
So I just sent my SIR to UC Irvine. I'm going to be an anteater in the fall! I got $40,000 per year in aid and grants so I'll have minimal debt. I got accepted under polisci because my freshman grades kind of screwed me over. But I got an email yesterday and they told me I could appeal my decision to the school of engineering, which I did. I just had to inform them of my last semester grades and any science-related experiment/project I've done. Last semester I took AVID senior seminar, AP Microeconomics, AP Calc A/B, AP Physics, and AP English lit and Comp. Grades were A, B, A, B, A respectively
The email also said that they have space in Material Science Engineering and maybe in Aerospace engineering (my preferred choice), but I didn't want to risk not getting in so I chose MSE.
The email also said that they have space in Material Science Engineering and maybe in Aerospace engineering (my preferred choice), but I didn't want to risk not getting in so I chose MSE.
Was this a good choice? Any of you doing MSE? What's it like?
Eliza Nangerway - Thu, 24 Apr 2014 16:04:20 EST 9+I+k5VX No.6281 Reply
1398369860266.jpg -(165405B / 161.53KB, 1024x768) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Congratulations on getting accepted into the engineering programs,
I'm happy to hear that you are doing so well in your classes.

Most fields of engineering overlap in the early stages, so you will have to decide whether MSE is for you or if AE is more your forte. Material sciences is working with things like ceramics, plastics, etc. while aerospace would be more inclined to things like aerodynamics, statics and forces.

in the set of engineering, the skill sets these sub fields require are that you must learn physics, Integral and differential calculus , statics, kinematics, hydraulics, heat, strength, and how to machine parts.
how you use these skills will be dependent on your actual major, but more or less its inter-connected in the non-specialized classes.

as for whether its a good choice, that's up to you if you like the feel of the work keep going and don't give up. ALSO i would suggest getting a girlfriend or boyfriend before you lose contact with the human race; get some friends from class and hang out and study as a group.
these tests are hard, and the concepts can be complex.

you are lucky to have FA im working and studying full time.

PS. good luck with thermo, have fun and Don't Panic.
Priscilla Smallford - Sun, 27 Apr 2014 05:08:54 EST bPdtWw+Z No.6285 Reply
1398589734611.png -(119093B / 116.30KB, 1080x782) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
I got in! Thanks for the advice!
Basil Clammleworth - Thu, 01 May 2014 12:16:58 EST wL5glGPd No.6288 Reply
1398961018149.png -(268529B / 262.24KB, 1158x1191) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size.
Welcome to the UC system. Enjoy your stay, and good luck with Engineering.


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- Wed, 30 Apr 2014 06:23:06 EST vSTp3Yjx No.6287
File: 1398853386566.jpg -(40432B / 39.48KB, 500x384) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. HALP
anybody know of any good gcode simulators?

thanks /tesla/

Tin Can Predicament

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- Sun, 20 Apr 2014 13:51:37 EST 5gD9lQi4 No.6264
File: 1398016297652.png -(45544B / 44.48KB, 1103x1305) Thumbnail displayed, click image for full size. Tin Can Predicament
Heyo, /tesla/

I got a quick problem that needs solving.

I have a tin can I need overlapped onto the end of the other, such that 2 holes line up. I did my best to show this in sketchup (see picture).
I'm thinking I should cut about an inch at 8 points equidistant from each other around the rim of the upper can and fold the tabs alternating in and out, but I need a second opinion from some legit engineers.

Lemme know what you think.
7 posts omitted. Click View Thread to read.
Eugene Nengerdin - Sat, 26 Apr 2014 22:02:57 EST RVngPBEo No.6284 Reply
OK, scratch that.

I need one can to fit ENTIRELY over the other. None of that alternating in/out tab nonsense. Short of cutting down the entire length of the outer can to fit around the inner can, what can I do to make this happen?

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